HI Man, I really loved the concept and I want to use it in my own DIY printer, can you share more photos from the whole project? Do you have videos?
plasmasolutions
over 8 years
Same question as Lyle LeBlanc ... where are the limit switch addons? Dd you forgot to include them? How did you solve it?
jambalyle
over 8 years
Hey! Thanks for the design! I've successfully printed and installed them only to realize I've completely forgotten about the limit switches. I see in one of the pictures that there's something that attaches to the back, but I cant seem to find the files anywhere. Before I go ahead and make something crude and utilitarian I was wondering if you actually already have a file for these? I tried to use the ones from your first version but there wasn't enough space between the frame of the machine and the xy block on the front of the machine to make it work. It is quite possible I'm doing something wrong though. Thoughts?
Cheers!
ataraxis
over 8 years
Plastite screws are designed for plastics. They are cutting their threads themself. I guess normal ones will do it.
dandy-lion
over 8 years
What are plastite screws? Can you use normal screws instead. We don't have such a thing in the UK, I think the imperial dimensions don't help
Anonymous
over 9 years
Hi, have you printing instructions for those blocks? Can it in PLA be printed? Or Nylon works better?. Infill %?.
Thanks in advance!
johanw
over 9 years
<p>Ok, great! Thanks for the tip about orientation -- I guess that must
make a difference for the strength of the object. Any advice on the
amount of infill (using Cura)?</p>
johanw
over 9 years
<p>Ok, great! Thanks for the tip about orientation -- I guess that must make a difference for the strength of the object. Any advice on the amount of infill (using Cura)?</p>
nhfoley
over 9 years
<p>The endstop is just a screw - there is no plastic part necessary. </p><p>Use "Split Object" in Cura to orient them as you wish them to be printed. I believe the last set I printed used a 45/45/45 isometric sort of orientation with full support and I like those results the best. </p>
johanw
over 9 years
<p>Hi, these blocks appear very attractive and convenient to use, but .. as <a class="mentioned-user" href="/users/aviphysics" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">@aviphysics</a> mentioned, it seems that an endstop part is missing from the set of files. Also, in the v2.8 STL, which is presumably the one to go for, the layout doesn't separate the two parts for easy printing. Maybe you could take a look at this?</p><p><i>Edit.</i> I just find those missing endstops here: <a href="https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-end-stops-spacer-for-reptar-xy-v2" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-end-stops-spacer-for-reptar-xy-v2</a><br></p><i>Edit 2.</i> Remaining questions are answered on this discussion page (Google finds all): <a href="https://disqus.com/home/discussion/mb-thingiverse-production/reptar_xy_version_two_by_nhfoley_thingiverse/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">https://disqus.com/home/discussion/mb-thingiverse-production/reptar_xy_version_two_by_nhfoley_thingi...</a>
ataraxis
over 9 years
<p><a rel="nofollow" target="_blank" href="https://www.youmagine.com/users/nhfoley" class="mentioned-user">@nhfoley</a> thanks! didn't noticed that you have answered. it's soldiworks you use, right? and for the SSS thread: "no problemo", i really love these drivers!</p><p>@Irvick: take a look here: <a rel="nofollow" target="_blank" href="https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/15874-mxl-vs-gt2-print-results">https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/15874-mxl-vs-gt2-print-results</a>, and I really would suggest to change both, the pulleys AND the belts at once.</p>
chris36
over 9 years
<p>hows these orientated</p>
chris36
over 9 years
<p>how do these get orientated</p>
lrvick
over 9 years
<p>You mention the advantage of 303 tooth GT2 belts in this setup. Do you have a specific part number you have tested that works well with the stock pulleys?</p>
nhfoley
over 9 years
<p>Yup, not a problem. Adding now. Thanks for the helpful post on the UM forums about the Silentstepsticks BTW! I am using that as my guide to convert my second machine as we speak. Huge improvement...</p>
ataraxis
over 9 years
<p>hey nick ;)<br>would you mind sharing your original CAD files (ipt or whatever)?<br>I would like to make some little changes for easier printing.<br>thank you - so long - for the originals ;)</p>
aviphysics
almost 10 years
love the blocks, but the model seems to be missing end stops. I see the screw holes for the endstops, but it seems like there ought to be another part to go with them.
Raptor4
about 10 years
<p>Hi nhfoley!</p><p>Please upload an STEP file of Reptar XY-Version two! </p><p>Would gladly use this blocks for my printer, but need it for 8mm gantry!</p><p>Hope, You can do it as soon as possible!</p><p>Thank You in advance!</p><p>Eugen</p>
Raptor4
about 10 years
<p>Hi nhfoley!</p><p>Please upload an STEP file of Reptar XY-Version two! </p><p>Would gladly use this blocks for my printer, but need it for 8mm gantry!</p><p>Hope, You can do it as soon as possible!</p><p>Thank You in advance!</p><p>Eugen</p>
Pierrick
about 10 years
I would like to create the same piece but for 15mm ball bearing. Could you tune you design or send my your CAD files?
I solve complex problems, design new futures, explore obscure corners of the world. Head of Industrial Design at http://www.socialbicycles.com. Partner in robotics at http://ww...