2.5 inch hard drives are very handy because they need only 5Volts from the USB port and no power supply unit. The largest and cheapest per gigabyte of these 2,5" drives come in 15mm Thickness and use more platters than normal 9.5, 12.5 or 7mm notebook HDDs.
Sadly there are almost no USB3.0 cases on the market which support these thicker 15mm Harddrives.
I recently bought a Seagate ST4000LM016 4TB drive for RAWs and video backups. I got the single 15mm enclosure which was on stock for it from Raidsonic icybox, but it would not work on my mac. Must have something to do with the controller raidsonic uses.
But a chinese 4$ noname USB3.0 case from ebay worked fine. The Case identifies with a USB ID of 0x0621 and a Vendor ID of 0x1f75 (Innostor Co, Ltd.).
http://www.ebay.de/itm/USB3-0-to-SATA-External-HDD-2-5-Aluminium-Enclosure-Case-PC-HD-Hard-Disk-Drive-/282273336680?var=&hash=item41b8cd4d68:m:m7MejyXBsN6Mn4br-aF9oKw&autorefresh=true
Because the case only supported 12.5mm HDDs i made a new case to support 15mm drives. I decided to reuse the sturdy aluminium panels of the original external case and just print a new frame as this is most cost effective and has better looks and thermals compared to a pure 3d printed design. The case can be opened without any tools by pressing the front part and bending the hooks that engage the aluminium panels inside.
It took 4 design changes to get my idea and right, but the fifth print now fits perfectly.
https://youtu.be/0oL3YCuxQJI
Technical
I used Cura 2.6.2. to slice it and it came out without any problems.
Make sure to select "Touching Buildplate only" when you use support, because otherwise it will be very hard to get the support out of the printed hooks.
A raft is not needed as the surface area that it sticks to pretty large when you are using support.
I used GRRF PLA at 205°C on a bed with 60°C and 100% Fan speed (1st layer off), 120mm/s move speed and 60m/s printing speed (first layer 30mm/s).
Post-Printing
Removing the support completely is very important, especially in the areas of the hooks in the front and back and the groove where the controller PCB slides into.
I used some adhesive rubber foam to prevent the HDD from bouncing against the aluminium panels. Be careful with the HDDtop only to place the rubber foam at the sides where the screws are.
Putting too much pressure on the harddisk top shell or glueing something over the breathing hole can break your Harddisk!