UM2 FanMount BLIZZARD

By Looking4 Chat with Creator

16
20
Free
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donandi
donandi
over 8 years
i love this desig, works great. any update on the version for olsson block?
Christopher Bray
Christopher Bray
almost 9 years
I like the idea of the internal guides to direct air and support the roof while printing it.
EldRick
EldRick
almost 9 years
I'm wondering if the duct wouldn't work better if it were in two pieces, with no thin flat pieces joining the right and left fan ducts? That would pretty much eliminate the parts that get overheated and tend to melt.
Looking4
Looking4
almost 9 years
<p>Daer EldRick,</p><p>the air flow is directed by the internal guides towards the nozzle, thats right. But the internal guides sepperates three air tubes. The tubes on the back are affected by the main tube, so in combination they are&nbsp;guided to the nozzle and not direct on the nozzle. This design is balancing the offset between fancenter and nozzle. I could bring the complete fanmount more to the front, but then it isn't possible to Access the nozzle so easy because of the overlap of the fanmount. The funnels of the BLIZZARD are a compromise between the small outlet directed to the nozzle of Spirits funduct design and the wide one of Laberns design.</p><p>I think on the right side the internal guides and the wide outlett are nearly perfect. On the left side the outlett could be a little to small. The airflow&nbsp;on the&nbsp;left is &nbsp;impressive. I want to make more tests. Is the outlett on the left steep enough to prevent direct air flow to the nozzle tip?</p><p>The grid design on the bottom only prevents deforming heat bubbles. The added layers of Kapton tape close the holes and prevent the heaterblock from air flow.</p>
EldRick
EldRick
almost 9 years
<p>This version has a couple of unique features that are not necessarily advantages:</p><p>- The internal guides direct air toward the nozzle. In fact, the fans should spread the air widely, cool the piece, rather than chilling the plastic the instant it comes out of the nozzle. You need to allow the extruded plastic some time while hot, to adhere to the underlying layer. However, you also need to cool the piece to ensure that the layers cool in place fast enough to support a new layer without sagging. The better solution is to have the fans cool the piece more and the nozzle less.</p><p>- You have slots under the heater block, allowing cooling air to flow around the block. You would be better off insulating the heater block with Kapton tape or other materials, so it does not lose so much heat, while protecting the shroud from the heat. You can better protect the shroud from the heat: move the whole assembly with fans forward a couple of mm, to allow space between the heater block and the shroud and better center the airflow on the piece.</p>

Looking4

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