https://youtu.be/MYgLUKKsH3U https://youtu.be/wZ0Ty0UDUzs A Youtube follower suggested that I design a "pin walker" mechanism, which I had never seen nor heard of, so he directed me to the RobotHut website and I was so intrigued that I immediately begin designing a pin walker mechanism. After designing the mechanism, since I use Ultimaker 3D printers I decided to complete the model using the Ultimaker Robot as the body for Ultimaker Robot "Pin Walker". As usual, I probably forgot a file or two or who knows what else, so if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask as I do make plenty of mistakes. Designed using Autodesk Fusion 360, sliced using Cura 4.2, and printed in PLA on an Ultimaker 2+ Extended and an Ultimaker 3 Extended. One final note, I receive no compensation in any form for the parts and/or materials used in this model. Purchase, Print and Prepare the Parts.>/b> I used the following supplies: • Thick cyanoacrylate glue. • Cyanoacrylate glue accelerant. • Light machine oil. • Solder. • Double sided tape. This model uses the following non-3D printed parts: • One 3.7vdc 100ma Lithium Battery (https://www.adafruit.com/product/1570). • One JST PH 2-Pin Cable (https://www.adafruit.com/product/3814). • One N20 6VDC 150RPM gear motor. • One micro switch (Uxcell a12013100ux0116 High Knob 3P 2 Position 1P2T SPDT Vertical Slide Switch, 0.5 Amp, 50V DC, 50 Piece, 3 mm). You will also need a suitable battery charger. For the 3D printed parts, I've included the file "3D Printed Parts.pdf" containing the part names, count, layer height, infill and support settings for the 3D parts I printed. This is a high precision print and assembly model using at times very small parts and in very tight spaces. Prior to assembly, test fit and trim, file, sand, etc. all parts as necessary for smooth movement of moving surfaces, and tight fit for non moving surfaces. Depending on you printer, your printer settings and the colors you chose, more or less trimming, filing and/or sanding may be required. Carefully file all edges that contacted the build plate to make absolutely certain that all build plate "ooze" is removed and that all edges are smooth. I used small jewelers files and plenty of patience to perform this step. The model also uses threaded assembly, so I used a tap and die set (6mm by 1) for thread cleaning. I used a small dot of thick cyanoacrylate glue to attach the the body rear section to the body front section, secure the wiring to the base and to secure threads if needed. I also used light machine oil for lubrication of the gears and axles.