Ultimaker Original Plus - Dual Extrusion - Magnetic Head Changer

By Neotko / Sugarpop!

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Ultimaker Original Plus - Dual Extrusion - Magnetic Head Changer

By Neotko / Sugarpop!

at 2024-05-03
New STLs added:- MHC - Wiper Beta1Very little documentation but I wanted to share the beta since it's working quite ok but right I'm going to be very busy to document this properly and finish it. It uses:x1 Axis 5mm for Motor Emax GT3520. Basically a 5mm shaft.x2 5mm id bearings, 16mm od, 5mm width. Used this because it's what I had around.I'll try to upload some images of it assembled.To make it work it need's for the bed to lower to z18/z19 then a wipe movement coded and then return to the current_z. So far the script it's done in Simplify3D toolchange, but I need to tune it. Also after the head arrives to z18/19 the script must stop to avoid collisions, I do this by splitting the job in 2.New STLs added:- Mhc V3 Head Part2- Mhc V3 Fan Head Holder- Mhc V3 Fan Cap- Mhc V3 ClampThis new parts, like the old ones, will need to get some 'drill' on the Head Part2 and Fan Head Holder. The side holes of the Fan Head Holder that connect to the Fan Cap I would suggest that before using them you get a screwdriver (electrical one I use) and pre-mark the holes with a m3 screw. This way it's much easier to get the fancap-fanheadholder ready.This version I printed it on Carbonfil because it can reach 85C. Several prints and infrared camera shots show that it can hold the heat of the head perfectly. Specially since now, on the fan cap holder there's room to screw a 5V 25x25 fan, this way the peek it's always nice and cold. On my tests the air didn't affect the head and I was able to print at 260C without problems. ------------------http://youtu.be/hKXedh1aoz4This is my design based on the original idea by Foehnsturm.This is for Ultimaker Original Plus.Read the PDF for assembly instructions and tips. I documented as much as possible but I might have miss something.Note: Print the Clamp at 26% infill to it's really solid. Clean the supports and use a metal clamp to put the bearings inside. It's a tight fit to avoid any future movement.
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