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turlututu

almost 9 years

Hi, I have the same problem (heater block temperature), any other solution except reduces the speed of the fans ?

venkel

over 9 years

Strange, I printed many parts with it in PLA and never had an error. What do you think could be changed?

Jeroen van Zijp

over 9 years

I noticed the same problem as ultibrain. A serious temperature error after starting the print along with high fan speeds. After installing the original bracket the problem was gone.

ultibrain

over 9 years

The problem with this design is it reflects the air towards the heater block, and in facts disturbs the temperature/PID process. Lowering the fan speed is indeed a way to decrease this effect. However now I use a modified design, which has a closed bottom, this works way better! In the mean time Ultimaker came up with a less critical firmware, this firmware now just continues. But for all reading this: be aware this design not only cools down the print, but also cools down the nozzle...

sasm

over 9 years

<a rel="nofollow" target="_blank" href="/users/ultibrain" class="mentioned-user">@ultibrain</a> have you managed solving the problem? I updated from an older version and am now having problems with temperature dropping drastically if the fans go anything over 50%

venkel

over 9 years

@goligo I never printed ABS and till now PLA works ok. Only if you print high temperatures it will warp a bit around the heater.

goligo

over 9 years

This is exactly what I was looking for. Do I need ABS or can I give it a try with PLA as well?

CCW1984

over 9 years

Ultibrain, I haven't printed this myself, but I think what everyone is saying is that you'll need to lower the max speed of your fans, because this design makes the air cooling much more efficient. In Cura you can change the fan speed under "Expert"->"Expert Settings" (or CTRL+E), the "Cool" section. If anyone who is using it would like to chime in with their settings, it would help.

ultibrain

over 9 years

First. I made a LOT of nice prints with this fan mount. And it really is a beautiful design. However too badly since the latest ultimaker update (Cura 14.12.1) I have problems with the temperature. When the blowers go to 100%, I get this temperature error on the Ultimaker 2, and the printer halts. I think what happens is that too much air reflects to the nozzle/heater block. So the temperature curve is somehow distorted. Am I the only one experiencing this?

UltiArjan

over 9 years

Venkel; I'll try it again with metal .... can you share a step or other original format ? like to cut off something from the top-front to easier unscrew the nozzle without removing the fans.

venkel

over 9 years

Arjan, did you try the metal shield?

UltiArjan

over 9 years

Im afraid i have to revise my opinion.. even though printed in XT mine has really deformed at the left side. Its fine when you have the fan at 100% but with fan off or lower you may get problems. Back to the metal one for me.

Blizz

almost 10 years

I would say: Leave as it is! It's pretty awesome to actually have spare capacity in cooling. That's my idea about it anyway :)

venkel

almost 10 years

Haha well, if you want I can make the canals a bit smaller. Maybe that I can use the over capacity to guide the air more evenly around the print.

KorneelB

almost 10 years

it seems after instaling this shroud, printing PLA now does not get the temp high enough. i had to lower the fans to 40 percent to get the nozzle to heat up to 210 degrees... seems a bit too much cooling..

venkel

almost 10 years

Cool, thanks. It's time to fire up my UM again too.

UltiArjan

almost 10 years

just tried it (06rev1), perfect. printed in colorfabb XT at 100% fill it's 15 grams (vs 25 gram original). Had to bend out my endstop switch at the left back a little as its a few mm wider than the original and touched the left housing plate. Did a before and after comparison by printing the UM robot. The "after" printed the ear on the right much better (as expected). And on top the screws  hold much better so there is less vibration noise...

venkel

almost 10 years

That explains it. Next step is to find a small fan. Most that I find are at least 15mm thick. Hard to place in the UM2.

EldRick

almost 10 years

You need to get fans that support PWM. Fans that don't, won't work on a UM2, as that is how it controls the fan speed.

venkel

almost 10 years

Mine are 0,05A. They turn only at a very low fan % setting, and then very weakly. Original one ask 0,10A so I'm puzzled. Not following normal rules of current and voltage :)

venkel

almost 10 years

The trouble is, I bought high quality blowers with a lower current spec, but they don't work together with the UM2. So it's a bit of a guess to randomly buy another brand.

AlexWimJan

almost 10 years

12volt --- 0.36w ~ 0.03amp

AlexWimJan

almost 10 years

How about this one, https://www.ikbenstil.nl/noiseblocker-blacksilent-fan-xm1-40mm.html

venkel

almost 10 years

Well, if you find working 40mm blowers I can change the duct if you want?

AlexWimJan

almost 10 years

Hey venkel, how about update d of the 40mm fanduct.?

Blizz

almost 10 years

The new revision is a perfect fit. Awesome. Thanks for that.

Blizz

almost 10 years

Now we know what to print this evening. Thanks for that! :)

venkel

almost 10 years

see new revision!

EldRick

almost 10 years

Yes - thanks again.

ottomake

almost 10 years

Hey Venkel, this is your reminder... ;-) Thanks for your fantastic work!

venkel

almost 10 years

orry guys, I have been very busy lately. Let me try to do it this weekend. Remind me again please.

EldRick

almost 10 years

I don't have the source files or the skills. I just drilled a hole in mine.

Blizz

almost 10 years

EldRick you are a lot handier with modelling than I am, do you see fit to post a fixed model? Would love to print it again and mount it right.

EldRick

almost 10 years

I found the problem with the single-extruder version: there is an indent missing, necessary to clear the vertical screw at the right-front, that holds the hotend together. There was once a hole for the necessary clearance. The screw now presses down on the top of the right-side duct, and prevents the whole fan shroud from mounting straight. I had to drill a hole there to make it fit around the screw.

Blizz

almost 10 years

@ottomake: You describe the problem a lot better than I did but that is exactly what I have as well. I decided to mount it with only 2 screws and slightly "crooked". I figured that would be less bad than drilling a hole.

ottomake

almost 10 years

Hey, ireally like this fanduct. But I have the same issue like Blizz. It seems they changed the design a bit so this fanduct (actual version 06 at the moment) does not fit an actual ultimaker 2. Its not as EldRick wrote, the srew have not drifted, its the long screws that hold the axis and the extruder verically that are 1,5-2 mm longer at the bottom of the extruder unit. In special its only the right-front screw. I drilled a hole in the printed part, now it fits, but the air way isnt that smooth anymore.

venkel

almost 10 years

Let me check.

EldRick

almost 10 years

I agree - the attachment screw holes seem to have drifted in this single-extruder version - if you use both screws they tilt the front of the duct down.

Blizz

almost 10 years

Just printed the v06 for a single extruder and it doesn't fit my UM2. The long screws going through the head end at about 3mm under the bottom plate and the duct touches them. I can mount it but only with 2 of the 4 mounting holes.

venkel

almost 10 years

Alright let me look this evening. Now commuting home.

EldRick

almost 10 years

I really need the single-extruder version, please. Not the one that has the bulge in front...