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TwisterBlocks

Published at 2024-05-02
Free
★ ★ ★ ★ ☆ (7 comments)
136

chopmeister

12 objects 113 Followers
Joined over 11 years ago Zagreb, Croatia

Description

UPDATE 20.8.2014: Added GT2 belt clamps. These clamps provide NO tension, so they will work with 303 tooth GT2 based setups. Note that if they seem thin for you, you can always just scale them up a bit in Z if that seems necessary. UPDATE 26.12.2013: The parts that engage the endstops have been widened to 10 mm to compensate for the blocks being 2mm wider towards the center of the printer, so that the default endswitch positions still work. All the files have been updated accordingly.I love experimenting with my Ultimaker. Unfortunately when you want to do that with different extruders (like non-bowden ones) or printheads, you must disassemble a lot of things and it takes too much time. Not any more. These blocks allow you to switch printheads by removing 8 easily accessible bolts (leaving everything else in place) and twisting the print head to remove it together with the 6mm rods. They also increase the rigidity of your whole XY stage, and provide decent belt tension. You can find detailed instructions here: http://chopmeister.blogspot.com/2013/12/twisterblocks.html

Comments

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Otis Jame
Otis Jame
about 2 years
Thanks for the information. It really helped me! [among us](https://amongus2.io/)
Mathew23
Mathew23
over 2 years
Awesome, it's exactly what I was looking for, <a href="https://fnfonline.co/">fnf </a> thanks <a href="https://dordle.online/">dordle</a>
calinb
calinb
over 8 years
Okay, I made the CAD changes but won't have time to print my re-spin for a few days. Here's what it looks like: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/twisterblocks-re-spin
calinb
calinb
over 8 years
Wow! Like all your projects, this is simply fantastic design work! However, I'm not too keen on giving up even 4 mm of x and y travel. I use up all my UMO real estate far too often and wish for more already! Do you really need so much 6 mm rod engagement? Thanks for providing a .stp file, because I'm offsetting the faces by 2 mm and the screw holes by 1 mm (to keep them centered on the faces). Hence, I can try your design without giving up any X/Y travel. (Actually, I might be able to gain a little). To anchor the 6 mm rods more securely with my 2 mm shorter twister blocks, I might also try to add an extension on the twister block rod clamp that fits in the twister block rod assembly channel and provide additional support at the very end of the rod. The twister block slots are 2.5 mm deep so I can "get back" all of the 2 mm I'm removing plus 0.5 mm more, assuming that the rods are long enough to bottom in the channel against the twister block! If they are too short to benefit from this idea, I'll just buy longer 6 mm rods and custom cut them to fit tightly. A picture tells 1000 words so I'll post a "re-spin" place keeper to illustrate my idea just as soon as I finish the CAD modifications.
ataraxis
ataraxis
almost 10 years
<p>easy to print and a very good design! thank you also for the GT2 update! i would prefer support only on the edges, since the cura support is working better (IMHO).<br>definitely one of your best designs!</p>
universalist1
universalist1
over 10 years
Was easy to print, and works very well for me. Btw: I recommend to install it together with those easy-to-remove adjustable end caps: http//www.thingiverse.com/thing:99182/
rhymeandreason
rhymeandreason
almost 11 years
This works great! I just 'refurbished' an old ultimaker with them. Printed perfect the first time. Thank you for sharing.

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