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Tapir Shroud for Ultimaker

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Tapir Shroud for Ultimaker

Published at 2024-05-03

By nhfoley

Free
★ ★ ★ ★ ☆ (5 comments)
73
0
ultimaker fan duct shroud Cooling Tapir
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nhfoley

22 objects 69 Followers
Joined almost 11 years ago nhfoley@gmail.com

Description

The fan mounts to the shroud using #2 x 0.5" plastite screws. The shroud mounts to the ends of the M3 thumb screws using more #2 x 0.5" plastite screws as pinch bolts. Trimming some excess length off of the M3 thumb screws will result in a cleaner path for the air internally, but probably isn't necessary.   

Comments

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JohnInOttawa
JohnInOttawa
over 6 years
Hello! I've just printed this excellent design for a very old UMO. I know I need to rotate the heater block but due to the age of this printer want to make sure I don't break something. It looks like the heater wiring is threaded straight up through the head and doesn't look like it wants to bend. Those who have done this rotation, any techniques you care to share? Thanks!
IronGland
IronGland
over 9 years
Best fan shroud I have used so far. nhfoley is right about rotating your heater block. If you do it right there is still a mm or two of clearance between anything. So far it's working excellently. Another thing people don't quite realize about this design, you can adjust it up or down as it's only held on by it's clamps onto the vertical rods. I like this as my last shroud (not this one) kept nicking any part of the print that decided to stick up.
bebbi
bebbi
almost 10 years
<p>I've built the Tapir Shroud in PLA and coated it with Aluminium tape to shield it from the heat block. Has worked in principle, except that the pinch bolt system didn't hold fast for long because of the PLA getting soft after only a few prints. I had to fix it from inside via thumb screws then.</p><p>Then, when I installed a heated bed, this has immediately made the PLA shroud "arms" sink onto the build plate (@PLA temp 70°C). I wonder if there are other experiences and if ABS keeps the tension up for both pinch and shroud arms over a long time using all the heat from bed and printing.</p>
nhfoley
nhfoley
almost 10 years
<p>With precise rotation of the heat block, it is possible to align this so that there is no contact or melting.&nbsp;</p><p><br></p><p>That being said, it can be a tricky thing to do. I just added the source files to this design if you want to make any changes yourself. I don't actually have any ultimakers using stock hotends anymore, so I haven't tested this design in over a year...</p>
Toffe
Toffe
almost 10 years
<p>Hi NHFoley.</p><p>I printed your "Tapir Shroud" and Minimal printhead AND YX Reptar blocks. Awesome upgrades which makes the design a whole lot cleaner.</p><p>I have one problem, I've printed the tapir shroud of ABS but it does actually "bump" into the heatblock. I have to use a hex nut to lower it down a bit. This seems like a little design flaw or have i mounted it wrong? It's my third shroud now and they all melt onto the block since there is low or none spacing between. Got any protip for me? It fits pretty awesome but that spacing problem melts it and defects it's blowing capability since it now blows on the heaterblock too.</p>

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