Star Wars Lightsaber (Normal version)

By Ultimaker

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Valcrow
Valcrow
about 7 years
Hi Marc, Unfortunately, this was not created in solidworks so there are no solid modelling 'source' files. You can use the STL files as reference however.
Marc Vino
Marc Vino
about 7 years
Hi, we're a group of students from Spain, and we would like to use your lightsaber design for a SolidWorks project. If you could provide us the plans of the different pieces of the lightsaber you would help us a lot. Thanks! Awesome design.
Angus
Angus
over 8 years
How did he get the blade attached did he glue it or something.
Valcrow
Valcrow
over 8 years
@infiniTTTy Nice compilation! and awesome R2 for being a good sport.
InfiniTTTy
InfiniTTTy
over 8 years
Here's a link an album my progress of the printing / painting / weathering. I hope you all enjoy it! http://imgur.com/a/wpvXs
Tiago Santos
Tiago Santos
over 8 years
Is it possible to print at 0.2? I wasn't able to make things fit at that resolution
pierce
pierce
over 8 years
Good point, I was only doing 2 perimeters with a .4 nozzle, for next part ill bump this back up to 3 or more
Valcrow
Valcrow
over 8 years
You could increase number of perimeters (shell thickness) instead of infill. That will give it more strength than more infill and more efficient on materials.
pierce
pierce
over 8 years
What infil are people using for this? Just put the grip and emitter together and snapped off the end by mistake, only at 15% infil wonder if I should have gone higher or just been less clumsy! P.S. amazing model, looks very good quality
xkuco
xkuco
over 9 years
<p>where did you get that airbrush cleaner???? it looks printed i am very interested in that </p>
Alex3D
Alex3D
over 9 years
You have to know much paint but it is very successful.
Hrgo
Hrgo
almost 10 years
Love SF movies! This cyber skull would be also a great toy or a project to do! http://b2b.partcommunity.com/community/partcloud/index#!index?name=Funny+toy&model_id=199
InfiniTTTy
InfiniTTTy
about 10 years
I've tried to add my pics a could of times - all appears to go well (no error messages) but the pic never show up under 'Printed By'.
Valcrow
Valcrow
about 10 years
Yup, not many have spotted the differences, but the painted one is actually the complex version so it's a bit more detailed.
InfiniTTTy
InfiniTTTy
about 10 years
WOW! The complex one is amazing! I guess that answers my earlier question about the pics being different from the models here!
Valcrow
Valcrow
about 10 years
Awesome can't wait to see. also the complex version is up now too if you're up to the challenge. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/star-wars-lightsaber-complex-version @dim3nsioneer, 0.06mm should definately work... I tried .15 and it seemed fine on full scale and half scale. It might not be super clean since the overhang is quite steep, but that's what the complex version is for. :P
InfiniTTTy
InfiniTTTy
about 10 years
Well! I finally managed to get my saber painted up. I printed one for a friend and he walked my through the weathering process. Pics of them are coming up soon!
Dim3nsioneer
Dim3nsioneer
about 10 years
I used 0.06mm layer height and got two layers which were out in the air.
Valcrow
Valcrow
about 10 years
It may begin in the air if your layer height is too high, it's a steep angle for sure, but it should still work. (at least at 0.15mm or under)
Dim3nsioneer
Dim3nsioneer
about 10 years
There is a problem with the clip of the pommel. It begins in air (would actually need support). By slightly redesigning it, this problem could be fixed. Please... :-)
3d printing forum
3d printing forum
about 10 years
too cool
Valcrow
Valcrow
about 10 years
@infiniTTTy - you have a keen eye my friend! :P @ dhim, I would not recommend printing the blade sideways, I can't see that turning out well like you said with all the supports. Your best bet would be to edit the blade, cut out a middle section to shorten the overall length so the connectors stay in place to make it fit onto your build platform. To remove the extra round support piece, remove the whole print FIRST together, and then push the round extra support towards the tip. The gap should allow it to snap off nicely. if you try to break it laterally, you may damage the blade.
dhim
dhim
about 10 years
For anyone that printed this, quick question. I have the bottom part printed and it looks like it will turn out perfect as long as I don't break something while cleaning. However on the blade, I actually had to print the pieces sideways as the Replicator wouldn't fit it height wise (so many supports!). My question is how are you guys removing the base without damaging the blade?
InfiniTTTy
InfiniTTTy
about 10 years
Another question - in the finished pictures, it looks like the 'bubbles' and the knobs are separate, but here they're modeled together. Just wondering why. Thanks again! Sorry for all of the questions!
InfiniTTTy
InfiniTTTy
about 10 years
great! Thanks very much!
Valcrow
Valcrow
about 10 years
The round thing at the base is just to support the print so when it gets too tall and wobbly it stays stable without a brim. Since a brim would cover the hole which the triple flanges should go. But be sure to remove the whole print first. and then push the support piece along the axis of the blade, the blade is thin so any sideways movement can break it. You need 1 base blade, 1 base tip, and any number of mid sections for customizable length. They should all attach together via triple flanges.
InfiniTTTy
InfiniTTTy
about 10 years
One more question about the blade - is each blade section suppose to have that flange? I assume you're supposed to print out all three and lock them together but that means you'd have the flange in the middle of the blade, right?
InfiniTTTy
InfiniTTTy
about 10 years
Note - on Lightsaber_Turbine I needed to using "Combine everything (Type-A)" in Cura 14.03 otherwise the turbine wasn't attached to the housing when sliced. Maybe there's a slight geometry problem with that model?
InfiniTTTy
InfiniTTTy
about 10 years
Printing is in progress! Thanks
Valcrow
Valcrow
about 10 years
Assembly is straight forward, the pin goes between the grip and the rifle grenade. Just align the triple flanges with the holes and press it in. Turn clockwise until tightened. Should only be about 100 degrees of turning. Post pictures when you're done!
InfiniTTTy
InfiniTTTy
about 10 years
Looks great! Printing now! Any instructions building or should it be pretty straight forward? Just print on of everything?

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