The link to the painting guide as well as the assembly video link just takes you to the main ultimaker page. I can get to the blog, but using any of the link words to search returns negative results and I am not sure I have the life left to sift through a TON of blogs. Printing this as we speak on a Bambu Labs P1P and the parts I have done at .12 look pretty nice! Everything fits (not to the pin and switch yet) so looking forward to having all the parts done. Pinwheel is still a mystery as is the innards piece, Tested (Norm) did a review of this piece and those guys did not use the pinwheel either, nor did they show the pin and the switch so any help on these issues would be greatly appreciated. Beautiful work and thank you.
harlequin132
10 months
The link to the painting guide as well as the assembly video link just takes you to the main ultimaker page. I can get to the blog, but using any of the link words to search returns negative results and I am not sure I have the life left to sift through a TON of blogs. Printing this as we speak on a Bambu Labs P1P and the parts I have done at .12 look pretty nice! Everything fits (not to the pin and switch yet) so looking forward to having all the parts done. Pinwheel is still a mystery as is the innards piece, Tested (Norm) did a review of this piece and those guys did not use the pinwheel either, nor did they show the pin and the switch so any help on these issues would be greatly appreciated. Beautiful work and thank you.
harlequin132
10 months
The link to the painting guide as well as the assembly video link just takes you to the main ultimaker page. I can get to the blog, but using any of the link words to search returns negative results and I am not sure I have the life left to sift through a TON of blogs. Printing this as we speak on a Bambu Labs P1P and the parts I have done at .12 look pretty nice! Everything fits (not to the pin and switch yet) so looking forward to having all the parts done. Pinwheel is still a mystery as is the innards piece, Tested (Norm) did a review of this piece and those guys did not use the pinwheel either, nor did they show the pin and the switch so any help on these issues would be greatly appreciated. Beautiful work and thank you.
can't find assembly instructions anywhere. any help on this?
ktang
about 4 years
At first I didn't know what the "dring jig" was, then I realised it must be to help you attach the D-Ring to the pummel as shown in some of the photos. You need to figure that out as I have yet to do this project yet.
marcellovasr
over 4 years
Damian, this site is cool man
bandoballads
almost 5 years
Can anyone share the .stl files for the laser? I can't seem to find the file.
Ken Towner
about 5 years
I just printed this in groups of parts in three different colors on my Anet A8; grey, black and wood PLA. The fit was pretty good, just some minor cleanup and a little filing.
spider0205
almost 6 years
figured it out what an idiot
spider0205
almost 6 years
printed fine on my jgaurora a3s using simplify3D but what do i do with the dring?????
JBonk
almost 7 years
I work in a school and my digital art teacher has been trying to print this for me, but the sizes for the different pieces seem to be off.
Can anyone please help?
thanks in advance
Pau Luha
over 7 years
looks pretty cool, wish they'd make this lightsaber handle on the lightsaber umbrella i just bought..
http://fungadgetworld.com/star-wars-led-lightsaber-umbrella/
Michal Nemček
almost 8 years
For what is Lightsaber Dring Jig part?
Valcrow
over 8 years
@pugbully You can find the instructions and design philosophy here. https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/87-3d-printed-lightsaber-design-philosophy-and-printing-tips For a quick assembly guide simply refer to the painting video we assemble it at the end.
pugbully
over 8 years
I cannot seem to find the instructions? All links just go to a blog home page rather then the actual instructions. Can anyone help?
Milamber18
over 8 years
I did finally download that one. It worked a lot better but I still ended up breaking it.. Possibly my fumble fingers though.
Valcrow
over 8 years
@milamber18 There is an updated switch here: might have been missed with the comments pushing it down: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/light-saber-pin-and-switch-revision
Milamber18
over 8 years
The pin and switch were rather painful to deal with.
Nathan Duncan
over 8 years
Fantastic model, unfortunately the Lightsaber Switch & Pin aren't to scale with the rest of the model
Valcrow
almost 9 years
PSA - This is a longer switch with additional bits for proper cooling.
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/light-saber-pin-and-switch-revision
@jayLuvLL - The delamination and build-plate sticking issues are unfortunately ABS problems as are the grenade overhangs. I had a Up mini to use for a while and there's just no adjusting anything on that printer, it either works or it doesn't. It was difficult to make small pieces of anything on it, but it was decently good at larger parts. Ironic being that it's a mini :P
This model was designed to be printed on PLA however, and you may experience issues as you have with ABS.
Here is a recent print from a UM2 on PLA: http://shop3d.ca/wp-content/uploads/007-Print-to-Order.jpg
The overhang angle of the grenade should be able to print fine without supports as long as you have proper cooling.
The disk spacers can't be thicker or it'll mess with the fitting. You may actually need to trim off part of the disk spacer to make space for the buttons sometimes if it doesn't fit. Any thicker and it will push the grenade and heatsink a little too far out to fit nicely in the clamp.
Finished piece looks great regardless!
coolusername
almost 9 years
@Valcrow
Thanks!
Valcrow
almost 9 years
@coolusername no, they are meant to be printed together. (assuming you're talking about the little round piece at the base) This is to help tall blade piece stay on the bed. Think of it like a brim that holds the blade to the bed 1cm above the base so that it has less of a chance of being ripped off by the print head due to the leverage it gets at the top.
You need 3 blade sections, one at the base that connects to the light saber, one in the middle (or a few depending on length you desire) and one at the tip to close it off.
That said, I think if you found some other object that's already a pipe shape, that's probably better. 3D printed pieces are weak along the grain, so a blade built vertically won't hold up so long. It was just incomplete without it so I included blade files. :D feel free to not use it though, most people don't.
coolusername
almost 9 years
The blade files seem to be 2 parts in one .stl. Are these parts supposed to be separated? I wasn't able to find any pictures of the blade assembled.
Jay's 3D Adventure
almost 9 years
@Guilherme Martins Panayotou I believe it's a jig for bending a bit of filament into a D shape.
Guilherme Martins Panayotou
almost 9 years
how to use dring ?
Jay's 3D Adventure
almost 9 years
As well as my picture below you can just see that I made some changes and added a blade and LED's to make it extra awesome.
jakehart7
about 9 years
Hi Valcrow, thanks for your help.
You are right I do believe that there is something wrong with the Gcode, though I definitely ejected the sd before unplugging it, there could have been an issue with cura at the time of saving so I will have to re save and attempt the print again. I am using cura for the ultimaker 2.
Thank you again for your help. I thoroughly enjoyed building this lightsaber model and awesome work on the CAD files Its great to have something to print without supports for once!
Valcrow
about 9 years
@jakehart7 This sounds more like something is wrong with your Gcode, did you eject your SD card before you unplugged it or at least waited a few seconds after copying? What slicer and printer are you using?
This is the first I've heard of a part causing that kind of issue so it is more likely that it's something wrong with your setup. Model issues usually cause flaws in the print, but not weird behavior like that.
jakehart7
about 9 years
I have reason to believe that the stand file is corrupt in some way, after completing the main surface area the print head moves itself to the back of the print area and starts to ooze filament towards the print object.
After stopping the print and attempting to restart the print head appears to be clogged and filament does not extrude like it once did.
Is anyone else having this issue?
mikethebomber
over 9 years
<p>OK, now this is my question.... And yes, I'm a noob, but wayyy eager.</p><p>Can you put a sound board into this, such as... <a rel="nofollow" target="_blank" href="http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/z-sound-obsidianusb3.0.htm">http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p/z-sound-obsidianusb3.0.htm</a></p><p>With an LED ring if I made the blade translucent? Could be a big "selling" point.</p>
Captain_kiwii
about 10 years
Hi,
Firstly I want to said this model is pretty well done! Congrats.
Secondly, I was wondering where did you all print yours? If it is not on your own print, did you made it by internet? Some Website to recommand me?
Also i was Wondering, what are the pieces size to be print to have a 1:1 sized replica please?(Because with no precision of it, the default size is costing me 14 buck bye piece, fort 14 pieces it is cheaper to buy some replica... so it sound wierd to me ^^') Thanks for advance guys o/
araspitfire
about 10 years
Until YouMagine get the Printed by thing working...
http://araspitfire.smugmug.com/Other/Reprap/i-bcNLmMZ/A
I've been thinking about my version of your station, but I'm challenged by the fact that I've got just a couple minutes behind an airbrush up to now. One thing I'll do though, is use the spindle base, and add my printed parts onto that... it saves plastic and locks down to the top like it's err... meant to.... ;-) I just need to decide what to put where.. and from what little I know, you seem to have it pretty well though out already.
Valcrow
about 10 years
@winni - sorry no STEP parts, modelled in Max so mesh only. I think you may be better off using a wooden dowl, or plastic PVC pipe as the blade. The one here won't be durable enough for a kid!
@araspitfire
Thanks! There was a lot of thought put into how it goes together easily, glad someone noticed! :P There should be a little + button on the right under "printed by" I think this feature had issues a while ago though...
Haven't had a chance to fix my airbrush station yet though :/ been totally swamped. But I have been using it lots, which gives me lots of ideas for revisions.
araspitfire
about 10 years
Amazing design.. I'm in awe at the level of understanding that went into making this print so well. I tried to share a photo but for some reason YouMagine won't let me upload.
I plan to bootstrap airbrushing from your description, and make my own printed airbrush station similar to yours... (last chance to publish it before I publish one mostly based on yours... ;-)
Winni
about 10 years
<p>I have problems printing the three blade parts. I think the outer layer is to thin. Is it possible to get the Step parts? My son loves Star Wars. I´ll print the hole lightsaber for him. It´s really amazing, good job.</p>
boyferret
about 10 years
Sorry apparently it takes a month for me to notice notifications. I think my wife has thrown out that piece but if I can get a hold of some 3 mm abs I will print it out and try it. That lightsaber is still the best thing I have ever printed. Thank you very much.
Valcrow
over 10 years
That probably wasn't suppose to be included. :p Since it wasn't very well tested.
But since you have it you can test it! It is intended to be a Jig for bending a 3mm piece of PLA/ABS Into the shape of a D-ring. You heat it up and use the jig to shape the filament and then you can insert it in the hole on the cap of the lightsaber.
Let me know if it works out for you.
boyferret
over 10 years
What is the lightsaber_DRING_Jig? I printed it out but I cannot figure out where it goes, Also lightsaber is very awesome. Probably my favorite thing I have ever printed.
Valcrow
over 10 years
I've revised the pin and switch. you can download it here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/light-saber-pin-and-switch-revision
let me know if it works for you.
pdrinkut
over 10 years
having a ton of problems with the pin and switch, anyone got suggestions for print settings?
goligo
over 10 years
Thanks for this great lightsaber model. Just put everything together after two long days of printing. The only thing hard to print in good quality is the switch and pin.
soonyc
over 10 years
Well documented designs like yours are rare! Thanks a lot! I'm looking forward to print this!
Dim3nsioneer
over 10 years
The force was definitively with you! Amazing!
I'm just finishing the 4-piece version which I started at the beginning of this week. Guess what I'm going to print next... :-)