I use an assortment of lengths of #6-32 stainless steel flat head machine screws, nuts, and washers for all the screws on the keytar. j5create USB C Hub adapter dongle: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DX7MWZ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Audio splitter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07431YDWM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 Audio cable extension: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K3WYLUO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Audio cable adapter to 1/4 inch cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QLGYW3H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 USB-C to USB-C adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WW2K47/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Any USB-A to USB-C cable (for data from the pi) Any USB-A to micro USB cable cable (for power) The USB-C to USB-C is to connect to a USB-A to USB-C cable coming out of the raspberry pi (I needed the USB-C to fit through some of holes in parts I had already designed). I recommend disabling the power wire in that cable to prevent power backfeeding into the pi, as you should connect the hub to a power source to prevent power load on the pi.