YouMagine

Information Comments Technical Files Builds Add build

Comments

You need to be signed in before commenting.

Jackmichaela25

10 months

The website is only informational. We aren’t Cricut or have any affiliation with it. The images, logos, and trademarks are the property of their respective owners. We only provide support for setup, install, download, and update of your product instantly as per your need or requirements. https://designspaceapps.com

Jackmichaela25

10 months

The website is only informational. We aren’t Cricut or have any affiliation with it. The images, logos, and trademarks are the property of their respective owners. We only provide support for setup, install, download, and update of your product instantly as per your need or requirements. We do not sell Cricut products like Cricut Maker, Cricut Explore, or Cricut Heat. Are you looking for the Cricut new product setup? Before moving on to its setup, let’s discuss this latest machine and its uses. So, as you already know, the Cricut machine is an excellent craft machine for making creative and easy projects. With this machine, you can create unique crafts and everything you imagine. So, are you ready for this Cricut setup log in process? This guide will help you understand everything about Cricut setup on computer and mobile. Let’s start with the procedure. https://designspaceapps.com

Robert hudd

about 1 year

Cricut is a machines: Cricut Machine is creative and bring joy to your regular crafting. Cricut has launched various models on the market, like Cricut Explore, Cricut Maker, and Cricut Joy. All Cricut machines are the best in their work and help to provide your desired DIY projects. These machines are integrated with <a href="https://cutting-setup.com/">cricut design space</a>, a software program that helps you to make unique designs or upload pre-made designs from the Cricut Library. To access this, you have to create a Cricut account; otherwise, you can use your existing Cricut ID. The Cricut software (free) should be downloaded and installed on your device before connecting your Cricut machine. <a href="https://cutting-setup.com/">how to setup cricut maker</a> <a href="https://cutting-setup.com/">cricut.com setup mac</a> <a href="https://cutting-setup.com/">install cricut design space app</a> <a href="https://cutting-setup.com/">how to setup cricut explore</a>

Robert hudd

about 1 year

The brand-new version of the Cricut machine is faster and smarter. Yeah! You heard it right. Cricut Explore 3 is a professional machine crafter can rely on to create anything. The Explore new machine can cut 13” Smart Materials ranging from Smart Vinyl to Smart Iron-On, Smart Paper, and more. You only need to load the material and quickly start your unique project. The best thing is cutting even without a mat while using this machine. <a href="https://explorenewmachine.com/">cricut.com/setup</a> <a href="https://explorenewmachine.com/">install cricut design space app</a> <a href="https://explorenewmachine.com/">cricut maker new machine setup</a> <a href="https://explorenewmachine.com/">cricut create connect to computer</a>

Robert hudd

about 1 year

Cricut Marts is a team of Cricut experts who specialize in solving issues related to all Cricut machines, including Cricut Maker, Maker 3, Joy, Explore Air 2, Heat Press, Mug Press, and more. Cricut™ makes smart cutting machines that work with an easy-to-use app to help you design and personalize almost anything. <a href="https://cricuts-mart.com/">cricut.com/setup</a> <a href="https://cricuts-mart.com/">install cricut design space app</a>

floramillerusa

over 1 year

In recent years, personalized items such as mugs and T-shirts have gained much popularity, but they don’t come cheap. You can easily create a customized and trendy T-shirt from the comfort of your home with the help of a Cricut machine and a few other items. Custom T-shirts make a great gift, and you can sell them online. You will need a Cricut machine, MugPress and a blank T-shirt for the starter. All of these items are easily available on the Cricut’s official website. If you already have these items, download the Cricut Design Space app from <a href="https://cricutcomsetip.com/">design.cricut.com/setup</a>. Visit: <a href="https://cricutcomsetip.com/">cricut.com/setup</a>

Kingston Braxton

almost 2 years

Cricut Design Space is an associated app for Cricut Maker and Cricut Explore series. It’s an essential app to create projects from anywhere. This app is necessary to use the Cricut machine and lets you cut, draw, and design. You need to get access to the Cricut Design Space to start your work. This is what we are addressing below. Learn different things to get ready with your design space easily. https://cricut.designspace.space/

Kingston Braxton

almost 2 years

Cricut Design Space is an essential app to use for various Cricut machines. You can download the app just by clicking here. With the help of this software, Cricut users can create stunning designs for projects. The app can be used on both Windows and Mac devices. Plus, the Cricut Design Space is also available for Android and iOS smartphones. Keep reading the whole content to get extensive info about the app. https://designspace.space/

Kingston Braxton

almost 2 years

Cricut Design Space is an essential app to use for various Cricut machines. You can download the app just by clicking here. With the help of this software, Cricut users can create stunning designs for projects. The app can be used on both Windows and Mac devices. Plus, the Cricut Design Space is also available for Android and iOS smartphones. Keep reading the whole content to get extensive info about the app. https://designspace.space/

Kingston Braxton

almost 2 years

Learn all about your Cricut cutting machines at cricut.com/setup and everything you can make with one. Keep reading to find the answers to the most frequently asked questions about Cricut devices. For instance, what it is, how the machine works, what software you require to work with Cricut designs, and so much more. The Cricut machines are one of the most powerful tools when it comes to crafting. For starters, you will need to understand what a Cricut machine is at cricut.com/setup. Then, proceed to the setup procedure, which we will explain later in this guide. Let’s get started with your new Cricut Maker or Explore machine. Go to the setup cricut machine. Visit: https://cricut-explore.com/

Kingston Braxton

almost 2 years

The Cricut is a die-cutting machine for creating crafts of all sorts. Go to <a href="https://cricutsetjoy.com/">cricut.com/setup</a> and check out the materials you can cut with your Cricut machine. For such a big investment, you cannot afford to lose your way while setting up Cricut. And that is why we have gathered the steps for you. From setting up the machine, setting up the cutting mat, cleaning the mat to downloading the design software, cricut.com/setup is the only answer. <a href="https://cricutsetjoy.com/">cricut setup</a> <a href="https://cricutsetjoy.com/">cricut design space setup</a> <a href="https://cricutsetjoy.com/">www.cricut.com/setup</a> <a href="https://cricutsetjoy.com/">Cricut joy setup</a> <a href="https://cricutsetjoy.com/">Download Cricut Design Space</a> <a href="https://cricutsetjoy.com/">Design Space program</a>

davidrodriguez

almost 3 years

Que buenas ideas hay aqui en, compartimos ideas similares en https://www.fontaneros-tenerife.es/ puedes visitarnos y dejarnos un comentario!

Gene Arnold

about 3 years

I keep trying to unsub but it's not working!

Christophe C.

about 3 years

Unsubscribe

GreyBeard3D

about 3 years

Unsubscribing. Too much spam and don’t know any other way to stop it.

Shanie

over 3 years

Thanks for sharing. I had to buy this kind of masks since the beginning of the pandemic in order to serve my customers. I am a contractor (https://plancherchauffantsherbrooke.ca) and I need to be protected well. So far masks cost us a lot. I will definitely try those plans and eventually reduce my spend.

gmorain

over 3 years

I suggest that we all deactivate the 'Send me an email notification when.. Someone comments in a conversation I follow' option here https://www.youmagine.com/user/notifications since you are not required to post a new comment this way (which obviously adds to the unsolicited messages we all receive.

Joseph Chagan

over 3 years

testing

Joseph Chagan

over 3 years

@gcrocker there is a check box under the comment box to follow the updates or not. I think if you uncheck and post something it will stop... maybe 🤷‍♂️

gcrocker

over 3 years

How do I un-follow this? The spam comments are annoying.

UberEclectic

over 3 years

@erikcederb please shut down the comments, since it's just a trove of spammers, now.

exlink

over 4 years

@erikcederb Thank that start to be better ahah ! What can i set here please : https://i.ibb.co/tMs8BLH/Annotation-2020-06-06-212902.jpg Thank again for taking time to help me, if you accept maybe we can talk faster on discord : ExLiNK #1986

erikcederb

over 4 years

@exlink No need to up the bed temperature, just the hotend temperature to help the plastic to melt faster. If you run a .8mm line width, put your slicer at 4mm / 5 lines thick wall.

exlink

over 4 years

And the bed temperature stay at 60 or i need to up it ?

exlink

over 4 years

@erikcederb Thank's for the answer friend, So if i set a 0.8mm nozzle and do the good setting what i need to put in shell setting's ? And if i want to make good stack what nozzle i need to put and wich what settings ? Thank you again friend !

erikcederb

over 4 years

@exlink The Creality hotends cannot melt near enough plastic to put a 1.0mm nozzle to good use, it has too short of a melt zone in combination with the PTFE lining that gives it really bad thermal performance for high-flow scenarios. It can only do about 10mm3/sec with a 0.8mm nozzle, and this is pushing it. I would suggest you to go down to a 0.8mm nozzle, raise the temperature for printing pla to about 240C, with 0.8mm line width and a 0.25mm layer height, at 40mm/s and see if that works out for you. It cannot be easily stacked with these settings. Larger nozzles (which makes it print faster) also makes single extrusion stacking harder.

exlink

over 4 years

@erikcederb I try with a 1.0mm nozzle with the setting you said on you're page but i don't know what put in "shell" setting and for know that not print good :/

exlink

over 4 years

@erikcederb Thank for you answer, i get an Ender 5 and i would like to know for you what is the best configuration for print a lot. What nozzle size and what settings ? Can it's be easy stack with this one ? Thank you so much ! :)

daniela

over 4 years

Hallo and thank you a lot, am I the only one who would like to have a slightly wider shield? Say about 35-36 cm? Does anyone have experience with that? Would the design as-it-is work? All variants? Or would it be better if it had two extra pegs? (which would not be used with A4 sheet) Thank you so very much

erikcederb

over 4 years

@exlink: 20 minutes is not really reasonable on a Ender 3 Pro. The hotend and feeder is not up to that kind of flow rate, i believe the fastest we were able to make our Ender-3's do reliably at Stockholm Makerspace were about 35 minutes each with 0.8mm nozzle, PLA and a higher temperature than usual. Our Ultimakers with 0.8mm nozzles were pushing them out in sub 20 minutes each all day. But to get closer to these numbers, you first need to change your nozzle to a .8mm. A larger nozzle is the single largest print time reducing measure you can do. A larger nozzle will make printing stacks harder though, and my recommendation is that you to print two at a time instead of stacking, it will give you better surface quality and a lower failure rate.

exlink

over 4 years

Thank for you answer, i see but i learn people with a ender 3 pro can print them in 20 minute so i don't understand why i can't reduct the time :/

Vakil01

over 4 years

There are some stacker designs at: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/protective-visor-stacker The stacker designs do not save much time - maybe a minute or two. Their primary benefit is in using them for overnight print runs. Your print time is about right - mine a are bit faster with my Prusa. However I reduced my print times significantly to about 50 minutes by switching from a .4mm nozzle to a ,6mm nozzle. There is a learning curve with this switch in settings for your slicer as well as nozzle temperatures. In addition one problem with the .6mm nozzle is supports are much more difficult to remove and this could be an issue with the stacker designs.

exlink

over 4 years

Hello, I have an unmodified Ender 3 Pro and I would like to print these visors (Europe ISO838 model). Unfortunately my printing takes 1 hour 24 minutes and I would like to be able to print a lot of them... So I would like to know if someone could help me to improve the settings and make a stack version (I think possible by 20). I leave my discord: ExLiNK#1986 (possibility of remuneration)

V K

over 4 years

Printed on: ender 5 plus Feedback: Well done Erik. Fantastic job! Your work has been truly inspirational. I would be very grateful for your advice: I am a newbie to 3d printing. I am using your recommended settings (nozzle size 0.4mm, layer height 0.25, line width 0.5mm etc) but one side of the inner brow consistently appears thin (see picture). It's as though the printer as gone over the surrounding area too much, and left a thin segment in between. Am I doing something wrong? how do I correct this? P.S. not sure how to add the image to this comments section!

Ovidiu Chinan

over 4 years

Can I print in ASA prusament the Visor_Frame_PRUSA_COMPATIBLE_v1-solid_front-visor_stack_17pcs_95mm.stl on a single extruder MK3S?

lfrancoi

over 4 years

Hi, I am printing your face shields in France for healthcare employees. I would very much like to know if you have had any feedback from any healthcare service regarding the disinfection processes that may be used with these 3D printed shields, and the endurance of these shields to repeated sterilization. I am particularly interested in results with PLA as the printing material. Thank you in advance !

lfrancoi

over 4 years

If any of you is looking for stacked versions to print overnight or just print more with less human input, I successfully used these stacks: https://retrolabs.com/3d-prints/3d-printed-face-shield-with-10-mil-pvc I've made more than 40 of the x10 stacks so far (see my reports on printing them with a Wibox 2 or Dagoma DiscoEasy 200 just below), almost no issues, printing at the upper limit of my PLA temperature.I usually need to use a putty knife to separate them by applying force parallel to the separation layers to break it, but that is quite easy, and the surface is quite clean after separation. I found that the Gcode generated by Ultimaker Cura results in tougher separation layers as compared to the ones obtained with Gcode generated by the Dagoma version of Cura. I also found that the closed version of the visor is sturdier and stacks better than the open one.

Skywalker1337s

over 4 years

I remixed the remix by @michaeljones1992 to support Swedish punch hole dimensions. So if you have a smaller printer such as the FlashForge Finder and want to support Swedish Health Care system, please check it out: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/protective-visor-by-3dverkstan-remix-for-smaller-printers-sweden

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Jason Colman: If you are talking about the included stacks, they are clearly in a folder named "For dual extrusion printers", and have a separate file with modeled supports to be printed in a separate material. They will NOT work well if you try to print them on a single extrusion printer. Single extrusion stacking requires you to match the separation to be a exact multiple of the layer height you are using and to tune your printer settings carefully. To generate such a STL, use the solid front STL and put it into the software LuBan, that is now including a free stacking tool where you can customize separation and easily generate stacks with as many frames you would like. Read more here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1067858546711484/permalink/1491622321001769/

Jason Colman

over 4 years

on the North american stacked model are you printing without supports or what? Mine came apart but needed alot of cleanup.

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Mohsen Mokhtabad Amrei: Yes, you can use it, no problem :-)

m-amrei

over 4 years

hello, thanks for the files. can I use the picture you have (the first image, no modification)?

Boojah

over 4 years

I made a remix, for single extrusion stacking. Available here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/protective-visor-by-3dverkstan-remix-abe-for-single-extruder-stacking Only the 4 hole Swedish version at the moment. But .step is included.

emmart

over 4 years

Hello, thanks! Will you be so nice to design a version for smaller printers (150mmx150mmx150mm)?. Like this one here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4276934 It will be super useful. Thanks

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Mr.John: Jag rekommenderar att sikta på 220x220mm, då kan du printa två åt gången.

Mr.John

over 4 years

Hej Erik, skall köpa en 3d skrivare för att hjälpa till, vilken rekommenderar du? vilka mått är det som gäller för plattan är det 160x210mm som gäller?

blayed

over 4 years

@ighdesigns I have made a fixed version that works with the north american template and a single hole punch. You can find it on my remix link here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/verkstan-face-shield-north-american-6-hole-fixed And download the file with the ending "forSHP"

Gene Arnold

over 4 years

I just downloaded the full download but it will not unzip correctly on my Mac. The single versions will download and unzip. I need the NA 3 hole stacked version for a single extruder printer. Would like to print stacked version on my Ender 3. Can someone please help?

Garrett Lord

over 4 years

A modular Europe 4-Hole has been added, both in individual pieces and a complete set that fits in a 140mm x 140mm bed. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/modular-protective-visor

ighdesigns

over 4 years

I just use a single hole punch. Made one template and mark the holes on a new sheet. I tried another 3D design, and they also said use a 3 hole punch which didn't make any sense. I think they have some other kind of 3 hole punch that I've never seen.

redheadmaker

over 4 years

@ErikCederberg, I know that, I have the file, I was asking @jenchris1

erikcederb

over 4 years

@redheadmaker: there is templates in the downloaded file.

redheadmaker

over 4 years

Do you have the pdf with the template for the holes?

Jenchris1

over 4 years

i do not know why is posted three times to add to my shame but i figured it out

Jenchris1

over 4 years

ok im gonna say it i feel crazy, maybe im dumb , me and my husband have spent the last hour trying to figure out this three hole punch spacer thing is there a video somewhere?

Jenchris1

over 4 years

@james baldwin I tried to use the cricut file it will not allow me to , it loads it into design space and then it wont let me click make it. is there anyway you can email me?

blayed

over 4 years

Hello, I have recreated the solidworks file and fixed the north american 6 hole punch spacing https://www.youmagine.com/designs/verkstan-face-shield-north-american-6-hole-fixed

James Baldwin

over 4 years

@jenchris1 I uploaded a file to Design Space if you want to check it out. I was having an issue with hole alignment as well so I edited the DXF and made my own. This is for an 8.5x11 sheet. https://design.cricut.com/landing/project-detail/5e8aa11ade49110b747b73dd

Jenchris1

over 4 years

Hi there, I am currently printing the 3d north america band six hole, i am also trying to cut via svg using a die cut machine as i do not have a laser cut machine, I have a cricut machine which i have seen others use for other ppe projects. I am struggling with it cutting off the corners just a bit to much and there for cutting about 1/4 or so of an inch off of the template. I am thinking of enlarging the template a smidge to fix this , however worry it will effect the hole size and cause issues. Has anyone else used a cricut machine and had issues or figured out a fix for this?

erikcederb

over 4 years

Hi @mehdi: The file "frameopentopstack_x10" is not a file i have released. Please ask that question to the creator of the file.

JayArgh

over 4 years

@Garrett Lord. Thanks! I'll give that one a try.

mehdi

over 4 years

Hello, I printed the file frame_opentop_stack_x10 and I can't separate them. nuzzle 0.8 240 bed 70 and I followed the configuration in the file. Do you have a solution? thank you

Garrett Lord

over 4 years

@JayArgh I have a modular version of the North America 3-Hole here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/modular-protective-visor I have the piece as separate files or as a combined file (which will fit your 15cmx15cm bed) They snap together once done, and should not require any fasteners or glue.

JayArgh

over 4 years

I am looking to print the North America 3 or 6 hole model, however, my print bed is only 15x15cm (Qiditech X-one 2) and is thus too small for the all-in-one design. Is there a way to break down the design into three pieces that can be printed on the diagonal? Thinking out loud: print the legs separately and screw and/or glue them to the forehead bridge?

Dam's / ATELIER +

over 4 years

Thanks for the great model. After showing different models and prototypes to my local hospital and getting their feedback, I remixed your model with the Prusa RC2/3, mainly to add space for mask and glasses. They also liked it to hold well without rubber bands for disinfection. For those interested: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/face-shield-post-tenebras-lux

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Zach Smith: You need about a 210x210mm print bed to be able to fit two at a time on the bed. If you would be OK with only one, the bare minimum is approx 160x185mm

erikcederb

over 4 years

@zlatko, skicka mig ett mail på faceshield@3dverkstan.se så tittar jag på det.

zlatko

over 4 years

Hej Erik, nu har vi kört 70 st. skyddsvisirer av modellen Visor_frame_SWEDEN_v11 och tänker köra upp mot 400. Dock har jag ett önskemål om modelländring. Skulle ni kunna ta bort gliporna då det fastan pulver för oss och är svårt att rengöra. Vi upplever att skyddsvisirerna blir elastiska även utan dessa. Stay Safe :)

Zach Smith235

over 4 years

I am about to buy a 3D printer to make these. What size printer do I need?

ibbis

over 4 years

Using Raise3D with 0.8 nozzle. Fitting 3 pcs on buildplate and it takes 64min for the whole 3 pcs print.

erikcederb

over 4 years

Yves Lenhard (YL): This issue should be fixed now if you download the files again.

Thomas Lum

over 4 years

I have had good luck with using my UM3 with a .8mm nozzle 1 for the PLA and a .4mm nozzle 2 with breakaway support material. I use a .3mm layer height and the frames separate very cleanly. You have to use the dual extrusion files and I modified them to just print 10 frames and 9 support layers. Prints take about 7.5 hours.

gcrocker

over 4 years

Our FIRST Tech Challenge robotics team generated a resin-cast mold approach based on this using the North American frame: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4252623 You 3d print a "mold mold", mix silicone, put it in the "mold mold", now you have a silicone mold. Then you mix resin and pour it into the mold. Wait 15 minutes, repeat. A warm oven is needed for resin curing. This enables folks who DON'T have a 3d printer to make face shield frames.

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Alexander Kjeldaas if you follow the directions on http://faceshield.nu, it will guide you how to make Cura slice like that, similar setting should be possible for PrusaSlicer as well.

alexanderkjeldaas

over 4 years

@Dizzy did you find gcodes for printing two in less than an hour on MK3S?

alexanderkjeldaas

over 4 years

Which slicer will do the layout so that there are long strokes along the edges? Prusa Slicer will fill everything with a constant direction, and I guess that will cause a lot more accelleration and slower prints? Who can share gcodes for a good slice for this?

gotrobot?

over 4 years

Our robotics team is successfully printing stacks of 10... multiple locations. Reached out to Erik. Waiting to hear back. We would be happy to share the g-code. (Hi Christian! Sass!)

alexanderkjeldaas

over 4 years

I tried stacking with 0.2mm spacing using LuBan, but that doesn't give proper separation between the items. Also when printing a single item, I don't think the bottom layer is think enough. Maybe someone more experienced can give some guidance on how to make the bottom layer thicker, and what spacing is best in LuBan? This is one of my first prints. Otherwise this prints great on a MK3S using PETG.

Thomas Lum

over 4 years

The North American 17 piece support stack isn't correct, it is the same as the visor stack. Can someone rue-load just that stl file?

alexanderkjeldaas

over 4 years

I understand that Prusa Slicer needs some vertical bars going through the stacked structure in order to not complain about errors. It won't slice anything hanging in the air. Would it be possible to add this to the (Swedish) models?

ighdesigns

over 4 years

Hi, did you add a piece for attaching the foam to the band?

Joe Caroon

over 4 years

I'm having troubles finding the stl of the yellow banded face shield shown above that looks like it has more clearance from the face. Any chance some one can point me to the link? Our local hospital is telling me that their face is touching the shield.

GerdWi

over 4 years

Can i close the loop at the end somehow? every medical worker whcich tried this and has long hair was tangled in this face shield and it was hard to remove from face because the hair was behind the loop hook

Εμμανουήλ Τσικνιαδόπουλος (Shaidor)

over 4 years

Hey, i have two simple questions. Can i use this file Visor_frame_EUROPE_ISO838_v4-1mm_front with my ender - 3 (no dual extrusion) ? Should i print the stacked version with supports? Will i have any problem with the gap between each visor frame? Really thank you for the design.. I am trying to print non stop for my local hospital !

ibbis

over 4 years

@Erik Cerberg. Thanks. I got it. Please fix the Visor_Frame_NORTH_AMERICA_letter_6-hole_v5-solid_front-support_stack_17pcs_95mm model. It is not! the support model. Thats why it confused me. Both support and visor model are the same in the 17pcs version

erikcederb

over 4 years

Everyone requesting stacked versions for single extrusion: LuBan (free software for smaller models) is now including a stacking tool where you can customize separation etc and easily generate your own stacks from the STL files. I recommend that you use the solid brow versions for stacking. Read more here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1067858546711484/permalink/1491622321001769/

erikcederb

over 4 years

barker227: Sorry, i have not used the Stratasys slicers a lot, so i can't help you here.

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Yves Lenhard (YL): Use 0.4 AA and Ultimaker Breakaway as a Support material. For the model you can use a 0.8mm AA. Turn off support altogheter (we're using a custom model as support) Choose a visor stack file and open it in Cura. Open the corresponding support stack file. Right click -> Merge. Select the support (Ctrl+click) and choose that stack to print with extruder 2. Turn off prime tower.

barker227

over 4 years

WritePreview First off, thank you for sharing this file - we have been printing it for several days and it has been a huge help to local healthcare workers. I have been printing the 17 high file on my Dimension 1200es printer, but even though it is a very simple file, there seems to be an excess of support material around it. I have seen the same file printed on social media where the support material only seems to be between the actual models. Does anyone have any thought on if this is an issue that can be fixed? Thanks!

KrisG

over 4 years

I printed 3 EU versions on a Ultimaker 3 with a 0.4mm nozzle (I think, printer is not mine). They are usable but not really solid. Lines are almost coming loose, not really, but it could be better. I'm pretty new to 3D printing, could anyone tell me what settings to change to solve this for future prints ?

ibbis

over 4 years

How to print stacked stl with Dual Extruder? Use 0.4 nozzle for supports? Support material? Support distance to parts? Can you share your stacked settings?

Garrett Lord

over 4 years

Just to keep everyone updated on the modular design, full sets of the North American 3-hole and Sweden 6-hole have been uploaded. They fit on a 140x140 bed with the build being 130x130 to allow for a raft.

lilyrmarie

over 4 years

@Erik Cederberg - thank you so much! That did the trick - going to start printing a whole bunch of these now. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

Dancarey94

over 4 years

Hello Erik! Love the design and I'm gearing up to print these myself. I was wondering if you could release an updated version that is stackable? It would add tremendous efficiency to an already amazing design. I think that would be a huge help to home-printers everywhere trying to do their part. Thanks again for your incredible work and I hope to see a stackable design soon! Daniel Carey

erikcederb

over 4 years

@lilyrmarie Just open Cura, go to preferences in the top menu and click on "Configure Cura". In the window that comes up, uncheck the box "Ensure models are kept apart" and you will be able to put them as you please.

lilyrmarie

over 4 years

Would someone be able to share a file of the North American 6 hole punch (the one that is solid in the front) where there are 2 shields on the print bed? It looks like there is enough space to print 2 if you put the "ear piece" part of one almost inside the other. I am using Lulzbot Cura software and am pretty much still a novice so when I tried to put 2 on the build plate and orientate them in that way, it wouldn't let me. Thanks for any assistance you could provide.

Dizzy

over 4 years

Hej friends, Är det någon som har en prusakompatibel fil, som tar 2 på under en timme, för 0,4 nozzle? Jag hittade en som heter prusaverkstan_0.35mm_PLA_MK2S_55m. MEN den har ju plupparna för hålen på fel ställen. Någon som vet?

erikcederb

over 4 years

Du kan gott köra den solida, de tunnare finns egentligen bara för att spara utskriftstid i FDM-skrivare.

zlatko

over 4 years

Tack igen Erik och en sista fråga, vilken av de tre modellerna ska jag ta, solida, 1mm eller bara version 11 ?

erikcederb

over 4 years

@zlatko: Generellt avråder jag från flerdelade modeller eftersom du dels får ett monteringssteg och dels får håligheter som blir svåra att desinficera. Jag har ärligt sagt inte sett modellen du refererar till från Garret Lord, så jag har svårt att avgöra. Sen skulle det säkert gå att optimera modellen ännu bättre för pulverbäddstekniker, fokus för mig har varit att optimera för FDM.

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Christophe C: I have not had very good results with single extrusion stacking, and this is why you are not finding a official single extrusion stacked model amongst my files above. It can absolutely be done, but it requires careful tuning of both printer, file and settings. And i am doing as best as i can to keep up with all the comments, emails and requests, i spend quite a few hours per day with this right now. :-)

zlatko

over 4 years

OK, tack Erik. Nästa fråga, jag tänker köra en pack med med visirer i vår lasersintringsmaskin (EOS Formiga P110) och är mellan valet och kvalet om jag ska packa med modulära modelen från Garret Lord och få 105 visirer per körning eller din modell och köra bara 60 ? Några förslag/tips ? Bra initiativ btw :)

Christophe C.

over 4 years

by the way I have not seen a lot of such message (and did not yet do myself) : Thanks a lot Erik Cederberg ! I see a big involvement in the modeling as well as a lot of time (and patience) in answering messages. So thanks a lot for that !

Christophe C.

over 4 years

Hei ! how is your luck on stacked version from retrolab ? ours are sticking to one another and very hard to separate (for example for the european version with 5 stacked prints). Any advise on how to print stacked and still have easy separation ? (single extruder)

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Zlatko: Tryck på "Download" uppe till höger, packa upp och öppna zip-filen "Sweden", så finns det i mappen för STL-filer.

zlatko

over 4 years

Hej Erik, var hittar jag STL-en till detaljen ?

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Jason Cheng The stacked versions are made for dual extrusion printers and you need to combine the support and the visor stacks to get a full stack to print. I have no experience myself with dual extrusion in prusa slicer myself, so i have a hard time knowing a solution to your problem.

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Jason Cheng: the difference is that the thin part in the brow has its thickness increased to 1mm, it is if you have a hard time getting that part solid.

Jason Cheng

over 4 years

Any advice on how to get PrusaSlicer to slice the stacked versions? I'm getting: Empty layers detected, the output would not be printable. Object name: Visor_Frame_NORTH_AMERICA_letter_6-hole_v5-solid_front-support_stack_17pcs_95mm.stl Print z: 5.900000 This is usually caused by negligibly small extrusions or by a faulty model. Try to repair the model or change its orientation on the bed. I'm trying to help a local non profit print these, but can not get the stacked versions STLs to work. Thanks!

Jason Cheng

over 4 years

What's the difference between: Visor_Frame_NORTH_AMERICA_letter_6-hole_v5-1mm_front.stl and Visor_Frame_NORTH_AMERICA_letter_6-hole_v5.stl ?

James Baldwin

over 4 years

Thanks for all you are doing! I have started printing the NA 6 hole version. I used some of the existing dxf files and imported them into Cricut Design Space. I have a Cricut cutting machine, and I wanted to be able to use it to cut out the shield portion. For anyone that wants to use it, you can find it here. https://design.cricut.com/landing/project-detail/5e8aa11ade49110b747b73dd I use the transparency setting on the Cricut and it cuts it out of an 8.5x11 piece perfectly. I resized the holes from the original files just a bit smaller, so they are very secure on the frame.

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Mdeleppe: A small radii added to the arm connecting to the temple, since the sharp point was causing some slicers to do sub-optimal pathing.

ConorMac

over 4 years

Hi Guys. I need your help. I have an old Makerbot Replicator 2 and i'd like to print this design out. The European 888 and 838 stl files dont fit into the build plate. Are there modified stl files that will fit a makerbot replicator 2 with European hole punches? Thanks for the help.

Sbfoxy

over 4 years

Also I am using the Ender 3 Pro printer with Cura and what is a good setting for speed. I am relatively new to all this. They are coming out good, it takes 3 hours. I am trying to increase the size of the frame to 105% to see if it helps with the shield holes. Also what are you using for the shield. I've gotten some transparencies but they are thin....

Sbfoxy

over 4 years

I am having a problems with The North American frame 6 post with the arrangement for the 3 hole punch, they are off. We have modified it manually but still a little off on the side holes next to the last. Also the holes seem a little big for the visor? Please help.

Garrett Lord

over 4 years

I've added a modular Sweden 6 hole version at this link: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/modular-protective-visor

Mdeleppe

over 4 years

Great design. We've so far produced 3k units. Quick question : whats the difference between euro-iso v3 and v4? We need signoff by our local healthcare org for any change in design but couldnt find a change log. Thanks.

Leigh Sanger

over 4 years

Erik Cederberg: Would you mind sharing the .dxf?

erikcederb

over 4 years

Leigh Sanger: I could very easily round it, but it messes a lot with the slicer algorithms when you are printing with large nozzles / layer heights, and makes the prints way less efficient.

Leigh Sanger

over 4 years

I haven't been able to find the Visor Frame North America Letter 6 Hole V5 1mm Front.dsf except of the Mylar template. Anyone know where I might be able to find it?

Leigh Sanger

over 4 years

It makes sense that the edges be rounded to avoid friction to the face. Many images of health care workers with contact abrasions are popping up all over. I could modify the file if others feel it would be beneficial. Your thoughts?

Don Wood

over 4 years

Thanks much for that! I just took 5 of the shields to a Masonic Nursing Home in the area and they loved them! They said that they would be helpful in many ways, not just COVID-19. Thanks again for putting this design together! Don

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Don Wood: I did, Erik Cederberg / 3DVerkstan, then i got some help from some US friends with verifying the fit.

Don Wood

over 4 years

Who designed the US 6 hole version so that I can give them credit?

Jimmy Sapède

over 4 years

cuts in the side plots for euro iso838 should be little deeper also

Jimmy Sapède

over 4 years

European ISO839 holes are to be modified when punching with A6, the holes on sides are too much in coincidence with center of the plot hence the holding of the film is not so good. please move plots a little towards the end of the branch (like 2-3mm) to ensure better holding. Ceter plots are OK plots should be a little bigger also

Garrett Lord

over 4 years

Hi all, I haven't see anything posted for a smaller, modular version, for those with micro printers. So I quickly put together a design that works with a printer as small as 4"x4" (100mmx100mm). It's on this website, link below: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/modular-protective-visor

andy_spoo

over 4 years

Anyone know of a particular NHS trust or hospital in the UK that is happy to receive/use THIS VERSION? Where can we send them to? The Prusa version takes forever to print, but they seem more organised with the 3DCrowdUK website https://www.3dcrowd.uk/ I'm happy to print these, but not if I don't know who to send them to :-) Andy

EscapeTechno

over 4 years

S'il vous plaît, j'ai besoin d'aide pour le zip "Europe Iso838 V4 Stacked For Dual Extrusion" Comment utiliser les 2 fichiers pour les 17 pièces dans cura ? J'ai essayé de mettre les coordonnées x et y à 0 pour les deux fichiers et ensuite 5 en z pour le support. Mais j'ai peur que les pièces ne se détachent pas ! Merci

redheadmaker

over 4 years

The retrolabs version is a little further away from the face. It is very nice - just used the closedtop version, not the opentop. https://retrolabs.com/3d-prints/3d-printed-face-shield-with-10-mil-pvc

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Christophe C: I am working on a rework that will extend the front about 15mm in front or so, but just elongating it 30mm will not be a workable option, this would limit the number of printers that could use the design by a lot, since it would be over 210mm long. It is already close to the maximum possible length to be able to fit two nested visors on the buildplate of many popular printers like Ultimaker 2/3, Prusa MK2/3, Ender-3 etc.

Christophe C.

over 4 years

Hei, Is there a version where the face shield is a bit further away from the face. Depending on the shape of the face, this one can be too close, touch the nose and fog up quite quickly. Putting the transparent sheet 3cm further in front would help a lot and probably be a lot more confortable. (probably the 2 branches going on eather side of the head will need to be extended equaly).

lizrackster

over 4 years

UNSUBSCRIBE PLEASE

Jeffrey Hen

over 4 years

This is really cool, I want to help but don't have a 3D printer, so I thought I would try to improve it. I don't know if anyone else has done this but I added a little bit to the top of the first attachment point. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/remix-of-protective-visor-by-3dverkstan

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Dan Rollo: Looks great! Great project you got going there! @RabidScallion: Thanks, it is much appreciated! @johanna jehring: email me at faceshield@3dverkstan.se about it. @3D_Cupcake: it would need some modification to make it work well on top of the chamfer. Also, single extrusion stacking does have quite a few problems with it. Single extrusion stacking is very sensitive to settings and often leave rough surfaces that are sub-optimal and hard to clean.

RabidScallion

over 4 years

Erik!!! I agree. You’re awesome! Credit all the way. Efforts goingTo in CT and NH (USA)

redheadmaker

over 4 years

Prusa slicer won't slice the Retrolabs stacked version. It says a empty layers detected and it is unprintable. I was able to print the separation test ok.

bhamail

over 4 years

Erik, Just a quick note to say Thanks for sharing your design. I'm using it to print Face Shields for nurses in Central NJ. I've tried to be sure to give proper credit on the site where I'm sharing the information: https://github.com/bha-github-organization/trip-d-print#3d-printed-face-shields. Please let me know if I should change anything in that regard. - Dan

johanna jehring

over 4 years

Hey, Do you happen to have a 2D file of this so it can be laser cut

3D_Cupcake

over 4 years

Thanks for awesome job Erik and great job! For the next version: Would it be possible to increase the chamfer angle on the sides so it would be possible to stack these on top of eachother or will it become problematic then to attach the visor in the punched holes? Thanks!

erikcederb

over 4 years

@DennyUofT: I am not providing full CAD files publicly, multiple people already have tried to claim this design as their own, and a lot of people remix without providing attribution and does not respect the license in other ways, not gonna help those people out by providing them with source files. People with a good reason to get CAD files will get them if they email faceshield@3dverkstan.se with the reason and agree to not to spread it further.

DennyUofT

over 4 years

I see others have requested - is CAD file (.stp or other) available for modifications? Some local heath care workers have requested some tweaks. Thanks.

Denis Rush

over 4 years

I also have a CR10 S5, how can i get the most out of the printer and run as many as possible. Suggestions please Denis

James Robertson

over 4 years

Thanks for this great file! I am currently printing these in the UK, using my schools Dremel 3D45. One person below had a question about fitting these to the smaller print bed. Here are the scale settings that I used to get it to fit perfectly with a standard 4 hole punch: Scale: X - 102.42% (Length needed increasing to make up for width reduction) Y - 98.33% (Width needed reducing) Z - 100% (Height) I hope this helps and thank you again!

erikcederb

over 4 years

I have added solid fron versions of all versions for all you guys that wants to make stacks. I have also added pre-stacked versions for dual extrusion printing.

oroussel

over 4 years

@Erik Cederberg : Thanks a lot for the feedback about the "open cap", I had no idea of that. So we can use the stacked "closed cap" version of retrolabs ? (which looks like as a stack of your EU model right ?)

erikcederb

over 4 years

The Open Cap version at retrolabs does compromise the safety of the PPE, and this is NOT recommended. This kind of change shows a lack of understanding of why it exists.

oroussel

over 4 years

I think my last comment was not properly sent or maybe deleted. For stacked versions of this model (North America and Europe versions), check this page: https://retrolabs.com/3d-prints/3d-printed-face-shield-with-10-mil-pvc

oroussel

over 4 years

For stacked versions, I found this page where stacked versions are available for North America and Europe versions: https://retrolabs.com/3d-prints/3d-printed-face-shield-with-10-mil-pvc There are STL for stacks of 3, 5, 10 and 30 I think. There is a variant for "open cap" (no fill in the cap) and "closed cap". I've tested the stack for "open cap" (which is faster to print) and everything was fine, pieces can be splitted easily.

Christophe C.

over 4 years

pff ... I just see there is a bunch of other comments asking for stacked versions. If there is already a stl file of a stacked configuration, could you please advise which version ?

Christophe C.

over 4 years

Hei ! getting some inspiration from prusaprinter (https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/27267), it would be really good to have stacked prints and be able to leave the printer running for 5 or 10 hours (overnight for example). I guess reducing top and bottom surface could help with detaching the visors and leave a decently smooth surface. Limiting factor would be print time (no more than an overnight print) and filament quantity (usual spools are 750g or 1kg). Please reply if you like the idea.

Santiago Zambrana

over 4 years

This is great work, I've been printing for almost 5 days and in Nicaragua, the people feel so happy with this face shield. Can someone modify this for kids? a friend worried about their kids asked me and I'm not very good at designing

DABlaylock

over 4 years

This is a great design using transparency sheets from office supply stores I have already made and gave away over 100 in just a few days. I have a CR10 S5 and can print 8 at a time easily printing 20 a day Thank you Erik!!!!!!

travishardiman

over 4 years

@Nussss you were able to fit 3 on the bed at one time? Can you share your 3mf or stl files? Or just an image of how they're oriented.

redheadmaker

over 4 years

I am using overhead transparencies and these work very well. You can find various ones on amazon. Try to find as thick as you can.

robpie

over 4 years

Has anyone found a good source for transparent plastic sheets? I purchased these however after trying it on it seriously hinders your vision. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GQREXO4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

r.f.conroy

over 4 years

Hey Erik, would it be possible to share an IGES or STEP file format of this design so I could make some minor modifications? I've got a series of printers, and about to kick off a large initiative with several different printing locations, so I would like to track quality control by adding material and fabrication location markings. Thanks!

lizrackster

over 4 years

Hey there, this is amazing - thanks to everyone who made this possible, I hope they work well once in a hospital context. Can we have the 3DS file please, as my printer is a small one I'm going to have to slice the model in half so I can print it. I will then have to use some very strong glue to fix it together.. . . . Unless this file already exists ? Thanks, Liz

Scott Jackson

over 4 years

Hello to anybody printing the North American version of this frame. I've created a small piece that can clip onto the forehead brace of the frame. It can either spread out the pressure, or have a 4" piece of 1/2" (12mm) foam tape attached to it. Takes under 5min to print at 0.3 layers with 0.6 nozzle and 0.8 line width. I've also created a template for a half sheet (4.25x11) transparency to use as a top cover. These are the two main concerns I see people voice about this design. Here are some solutions: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/flat-comfort-band-for-3dverkstan-face-shield

erikcederb

over 4 years

@jason watson: What spacing between the different units would you need to get it well working in a resin jetting printer like the Objet? Is 1mm spacing good?

andy_spoo

over 4 years

Anyone in the UK who has printed out any one these head bands that I can send a couple of laser cut shields to? I want to confirm they're accurate before I laser cut a load of them. Many 3D printers have a small amount of variation. I want to check that they fit others and not just mine! Thanks. Email me your address at amp3d@protonmail.com

jason watson

over 4 years

Hi Erik AMAZING- been printing Prusa design which is great but slow- 4 hole punch UK fits the Euro one- the 4 hole cutting guide for laser printing a little out. But regular sheet paper cutter perfect. My problem is we cant stack in out OBJET- could you add a 5-10 stack for the euro 80mm PLEASE. The NHS needs you. Thank you so much from Nottingham University Hospitals Trust. Printing a few of the flat band editions to see what that is like. BW Jason Watson

KrisG

over 4 years

I printed 3 EU versions on a Ultimaker 3 with a 0.4mm nozzle (I think, printer is not mine). They are usable but not really solid. Lines are almost coming loose, not really, but it could be better. I'm pretty new to 3D printing, could anyone tell me what settings to change to solve this for future prints ?

erick

over 4 years

@danielottosen - Thanks for your help. I tried those exact settings and I'm still getting 1 hour. I'm not sure what is going wrong.

htaxil

over 4 years

I want to build a stacked version for the European model, can you share the CAD file, please?

Tomáš Dulík

over 4 years

There a nice wikipedia page explaining the international punch hole standards: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hole_punch#Chart A picture is worth thousand words :-) - could you link it from your "versions" page? https://3dverkstan.se/protective-visor/protective-visor-versions/

danielottosen

over 4 years

@erick, I print them (or the version i made for fitting into the Makerbot) on a Makerbot on low quality without supports or rafts, and with 10% infill, dual shell, 0.8mm roof and floor. It takes about 30 minutes

Magnolia Titanium

over 4 years

4 ppl with glasses https://www.youmagine.com/designs/open-source-protective-visor-by-magnoliatitanium

Magnolia Titanium

over 4 years

I have a model that increases the clearance for peoples glasses

erick

over 4 years

Thank you for sharing these files. Can anyone help with reliable print settings for MakerBot Replicator to cut down the print time? Currently at about 1 hour 30 minutes. I'm not familiar enough to tweak and get a solid result quicker. Thanks for any help!

Jose Pablo Quesada

over 4 years

Thank you Erik and @lcmyip. I'll keep you posted as this moves forward

SS0311

over 4 years

Why the PETG preference?

lcmyip

over 4 years

@Jose Pablo Quesada I emailed you my CAD file too but if Erik can provide his, that's even better. @SS0317 seems to work okay with PLA on initial testing, but haven't gone further as we are recommending PETG. With PETG, the stacking completely fails. Either too well bonded or not well enough.

SS0311

over 4 years

@Icmyip any luck with the 10 stack? A group of friends and business partners are going to be purchasing 10 or more printers to print these or a similar face shield design. If they can be stacked then we will purchase a different printer (CR10S Pro). If they can't we will go with the largest bed we can (CR10 S5). We would much rather have the automatic bed leveling if we are managing many printers... I'd prefer to run each printer with (2) 10 stacks on the bed. Software looks like 6-7 hours with the file you posted. Interested in which direction to go before we spend all of our money on a particular printer. Planning on printing with PLA. Thank You

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Jose Pablo Quesada, you got mail.

Jose Pablo Quesada

over 4 years

Thanks @lcmyip . I do not run the facility, I'm hiring them to do it . They can work with STL but much rather get a CAD to understand dimensions and input into their machines. They will make the negative mold, Yes.... although I have no idea of costs yet. Can you send me the CAD to jpablo.quesada@gmail.com or jose.quesada@moduscreate.com ?

Jose Pablo Quesada

over 4 years

Thanks @lcmyip . I do not run the facility, I'm hiring them to do it . They can work with STL but much rather get a CAD to understand dimensions and input into their machines. They will make the negative mold, Yes.... although I have no idea of costs yet. Can you send me the CAD to jpablo.quesada@gmail.com or jose.quesada@moduscreate.com ?

lcmyip

over 4 years

@redheadmaker I stacked a slightly different job that I'm doing right now in the same way and printed 5-high overnight. Separately fairly well with PLA, although print quality decreased and if I were to repeat, I would run the job slower. I just joined @Petko Ganachev's Slack group based in BC and will continue any work there. @Jose Pablo Quesada I have a CAD file I reverse-engineered from the STL. Do you run this injection molding facility/would you be making the negative yourself? Apologies about the weird formatting of my post. I'm no longer able to post on the website and have to email in my replies (no idea why) and the formatting is horrendous.

Jose Pablo Quesada

over 4 years

Hi. I'm trying to mass produce this in an injection molding facility. Any chance someone has a PDF plan with clear dimensions for everything or a CAD drawing too?

redheadmaker

over 4 years

The Prusa stacked visors come out just fine. Maybe someone can look at how they stacked them. I printed their four stack - which is two and two. Can't believe how much longer and how much more filament that one takes.

erikcederb

over 4 years

@redheadmaker: The stacked file is specifically intended for Stratasys industrial printers that print ABS with soluble support materials. On most single material printers stacking does not produce good results.

starwin21

over 4 years

I have had great success with the American version and am producing them for medical personnel now. I also would like help creating a stacked American version file so I can meet demand. Even if you don't want to do the work, if you could provide the original CAD I would gladly give it a shot. Thank you so much for your hard work!

lcmyip

over 4 years

That's disappointing! I modeled it same as the Prusa one but theirs might have had thinner walls. I'll see tomorrow if mine worked. Otherwise I guess it's incentive to add a second extruder and use HIPS or PVA...

redheadmaker

over 4 years

The stack print doesn't work for me. I just used the bottom two on the stack and they pretty much came out fused together and when I chiseled them apart they are unusable. I guess for now I will stick with the two that are flat on the bed.

RabidScallion

over 4 years

@Andrew Normore Thanks so much for the guidance. Took my single print from 1.25 hrs down to 17 minutes. Also, Andrew is right, follow Erik's notes on printer settings. Using a 1.0 mm nozzle dramatic changed my print time and suffered very little in quality. Here is a run down on some basic settings in Cura that I've been using on my Ender 3 Pro 220x220 (no mods) Cura defaults for the most part with the following changes - No support - 1.0mm nozzle - 0.6 layer height - 2.4 Wall thickness (2 lines) - Concentric Top/Bottom pattern (thanks Andrew) - Fill gaps everywhere (nominal time difference and fills holes) - No infill - 210 Default printing temp (gets worse with lower temps for me) - Enable retraction with 8mm distance - 80mm/s print speed / 40mm/s wall speed / 30mm/s initial - Combing mode = All (helps with not having to clean up and no big change in time <1 min) In the middle of trying out @Icmyip stack print. I'll update to see how I do but my white filement needs a higher temp for some reason.

lcmyip

over 4 years

PETG is extremely sticky so I'm not surprised. I imagine it would work much better with PLA. I'm going to try stacking a different model in a similar way tonight. https://www.dropbox.com/s/2bs03fsnyw0r17a/Visor_Frame_NORTH_AMERICA_LETTER_v3.3-stack10-prusa.2.stl

Petko Ganachev

over 4 years

Stacking didn't work with the PTEG filament I'm using at all, even using the model with a solid splash guard from our volunteer. @redheadmaker make sure it works ok by printing the first 2 units in the stack then stopping the print before you leave it on over night to validate that it works with your printer and filament. would be a shame to waste a 1/4 of a roll of filament overnight.

redheadmaker

over 4 years

Yes, I could slice this latest one. I will start it up before I go to bed. Thanks! I just gave 20 of these away to a firefighter friend of mine that said his house has 26 firefighters and only 6 face shields.

Petko Ganachev

over 4 years

@icmyip that version slices fine with no supports in prusaslicer 2.2.0. I'm concerned about the bridging of the splash guard section however. The design our volunteer made turned that in to a solid section, only adds 2 grams of materials per frame, and still splits apart perfectly fine.

lcmyip

over 4 years

@Petko Ganachev Can you try this file? https://www.dropbox.com/s/73a3gj07kurl9il/Visor_Frame_NORTH_AMERICA_LETTER_v3.3-stack10prusa.stl?dl=0 I modeled the separation based on the Prusa RC3 stacked file you linked. Shouldn't need to enable supports for this. I did have to add some supporting cylinders in the forehead part of the model to support the next print. May end up actually being faster to make the entire forehead piece solid and hollow it out when slicing.

redheadmaker

over 4 years

That is ugly if I turn on supports. They aren't only in between. Prusa slicer supports are kind of a pain.

Petko Ganachev

over 4 years

Icmyip I was refering to the prusa RC3 stacked file. https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/27267 PrusaSlicer will not slice the Stratasys stack that's on here without supports either.

andy_spoo

over 4 years

I've re-created the Euro A4 DXF file so it now works well with the prints I've created. The screen still stays attached if the visor is used by someone with a larger than average head, or when someone with a small head uses it. Visor needs to be flexed open for the screen to be attached. Tested using 0.1mm OHP film,. File link here = https://yadi.sk/d/0g9Ck7VPj5UE6A Hopefully someone else might find it useful.

RabidScallion

over 4 years

This is great! Have you tested yet? I'm curious about optimizing the support and what settings you recommend.

lcmyip

over 4 years

Which Prusa stack are you referring to? The only stack I found in the documents section was for the Stratasys.

Petko Ganachev

over 4 years

Thank you Icmyip, I assumed you had it designed like the prusa stack with supports already built in. will try once my current print is done. Slices fine with supports.

lcmyip

over 4 years

The empty layer is likely because the way the template I followed (Swedish/Stratasys file) connected each model to the others was using a narrow 0.2 mm rod going through all the models. Would be interesting if Slicer/PrusaSlicer has the same error with that file. This is likely unprintable for most printers hence the error with the slicing software finding an empty layer. I assume you would use support material between the layers though? I can redo it using a wider diameter rod if that would help. To be honest, I'm unlikely to use these stacked models myself in the near future but I don't mind doing the CAD work if needed.

lcmyip

over 4 years

Do you have supports enabled? It slices fine using Cura.

Petko Ganachev

over 4 years

lcmyip's design gives an empty layer error in PrusaSlicer, any way to get around that? Also, one of our members created this design, same issue however should be easier to print since the splash shield will have some support when printing the next one. it printed very well for the person that posted it. (scale to 10% of original size to print correct dimentions. https://www.dropbox.com/s/3hfuudkveahqxe7/double%20stack%203dverkstan%20frames.obj?dl=0

lcmyip

over 4 years

My printer is currently occupied by another PPE project so I haven't tested the stack. I made it based on the Swedish/Stratasys printer version, but using my chamfered model instead of the original v.3 provided here.

redheadmaker

over 4 years

Slicer won't slice the stacked file with 10, here is the error message: Empty layers detected, the output would not be printable. Object name: Visor_Frame_NORTH_AMERICA_LETTER_v3.3-stack10.stl Print z: 6.500000 This is usually caused by negligibly small extrusions or by a faulty model. Try to repair the model or change its orientation on the bed.

redheadmaker

over 4 years

Have you tried the stacked ones yet? How do they come apart? Do you end up needing to sand them?

lcmyip

over 4 years

I didn't feel like waiting for the CAD models so I did it myself. Here's the link to my version of the NA files. Chamfered on both sides, and stacked x10, x20 and x30. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6qh0cvpbu5b9mfu/AADShdUqClApT7OgUqlturyca?dl=0

RabidScallion

over 4 years

I'd LOOOOOVVEEEE to see a stacked version. It would be great to have someone figure this out. I'm babysitting my printer every 20 minutes to take one of the bed and get the other one printing. On another note though, I'd also like to see easy cleanup. Printing one a time makes it nice because I have little to no cleanup. Hopefully you guys can figure this out soon. I have one maybe two more printers on the way where I can print three on the same bed so if they're stacked even better so the bed & nozzle heat up time wont be a factor.

lcmyip

over 4 years

This is great! Our prototyping lab has been printing various designs and seeing what would be most feasible. I like this one due to how fast it is to print and requiring only two parts. Any chance the CAD file would be available? I notice at least on the North America version that it is chamfered on one side only. If I had the CAD file I could easily chamfer the other, and also help make stacked versions if needed. I can reverse-engineer the file using the STL, but it's unnecessarily complex....

andy_spoo

over 4 years

I think those DXF files are wrong. My second printer/bed isn't large enough to print a whole face guard but I've cut the STL so I can compare the distance between the pins/holes and both printer produce holes/pins that are exactly the same, but neither coincides with the DXF file cut on my laser cutter. The laser is conformed as being calibrated correctly, so my conclusion is the DXF files are incorrect. I've tried both the Europe ISO and non ISO A4 files, neither are correct.

Responsible

over 4 years

+1 on a request for a stacked version of the NA model (Ultimaker 2 &3 Printer), and on the request for a solidworks file. Pete

Scott Jackson

over 4 years

Erik! I made a small band that snaps onto the forehead rest of the frame. It only adds 5 minutes and 2-3 grams of material per print. It's helpful for people that need to use a rubberband to keep the visor on their head. I've sized it to use 1/2 inch or 12mm high density foam tape. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/flat-comfort-band-for-erik-cederberg-s-face-shield

Petko Ganachev

over 4 years

We are printing these in British Columbia Canada for our medical professionals. Working on getting Health Authority Approval. One of our volunteers has successfully printed 2 of them stacked. Will share here once we confirm with a few printers that it works for sure. Pictures looked good. This is our current most optimized print settings for Prusa Printers. 2 units printed in 53 minutes with a 0.4mm nozzle: https://slack-files.com/T010V0KE0DT-F010ZSC8EVB-eadb04c9b4 You can find our group at https://help.colors3d.com

Joseph Coleno

over 4 years

As far as this comment can be useful to those who have chosen to print the Europe version and the template corresponding to the 4 fixing pins. Using the punch, position the template in question printed for a test and justapose it on the plastic sheet. Once the perforation is made, the plastic sheet is well positioned on the frame.

Phil Kent (Aquariums To Go)

over 4 years

I have the same issue with using a handheld hole punch. I’m planning on making my own template tommorow if a correct one isn’t available.

andy_spoo

over 4 years

I've tried the Swedish version with Swedish STL files and Swedish A4 dxf laser file and the holes in the shield aren't ligning up with headband. I've ran wide calibration tests on both my laser and 3D printer and they're calibrated just fine. Are their original model files rather than STL files available to download so I can check what the accurate distances of the pegs on the model should be so I can work this out?? Thanks, Andy

LisaB2020

over 4 years

Hi. Earlier someone asked about a version that can be printed on a smaller printer (FlashForge Finder). I'm a total novice at 3d printing, but have my child's printer and a ton of filament. I'd love to make something to protect my colleagues in healthcare. If there is a model I can make, I'd be very appreciative of that AND someone telling me all of the exact steps. I'd be happy to have someone talk me through the first one. Thanks!

redheadmaker

over 4 years

Does anyone have a stacked version of the U.S. visor?

Billy de Mulder

over 4 years

On Sun, 29 Mar 2020 at 2:36 PM, YouMagine - Supercomputer < supercomputer@youmagine.com> wrote: > Hi, > > Penjim joined the conversation on Protective Visor by 3DVerkstan: > > “ I have a .3mf file and gcode file for the Prusa MK3s, using generic > PETG. It prints 2 mask holders on the print bed at .30 height in 1 hour 37 > minutes. Any use to anybody? ” > could I have that please? I’m printing PLA but a temp change is easy Cheers Billy > Click to see the discussion... > <https://www.youmagine.com/designs/protective-visor-by-3dverkstan#activity--comment-create--14529> > or post your comment by hitting "Reply"! >

Penjim

over 4 years

Sorry, post should have read: I have a .3mf file and gcode file for the Prusa MK3s, using generic PETG. It prints 2 mask holders on the print bed at .30 height in 1 hour 37 minutes. This is for the North America 6 hole version (punched twice with a 3 hole punch). Any use to anybody?

Penjim

over 4 years

I have a .3mf file and gcode file for the Prusa MK3s, using generic PETG. It prints 2 mask holders on the print bed at .30 height in 1 hour 37 minutes. Any use to anybody?

Kevin Loeffler

over 4 years

Hi Erik, awesome design! I don't have a 3D printer big enough to print it, so I made a derived design (with credit to you of course) that can be made on 3D carving machines and published it to Inventables: https://www.inventables.com/projects/covid-19-protective-visor I made it with a sheet of 1/4" thick MDF and it works beautifully! It carves in 11 minutes.

luis71manuel

over 4 years

hi Erik, this is great thanks. one comment/request, i want to help however my printer bed is small. i have a Flashforge Finder with a bed size of 6x6 inches so your design will not fit. i am not very proficient at designing in 3D and i wonder if you or someone in the community can design something for smaller printers. something with a hinge on the edges of the side where the last hole punch is? thanks, Luis

RabidScallion

over 4 years

Absolutely! You deserve it!!!

Rodolphe

over 4 years

Merci pour avoir partagé vos fichiers et le travail fourni, je viens d'en imprimer un pour test. C'est sur que c'est rapide à imprimer, il est facile de changer la visière avec peu de matériel, le seul souci c'est qu'il est un peu trop près du visage lors du port d'un masque de protection et ça vient le toucher donc pas utilisable dans ces conditions, mais il y a surement d'autres façons de s'en servir.

erikcederb

over 4 years

Hi RabidScallion, thanks for the kind words. I do not require you to include a specific PDF, but if you do include some kind of documentation, a attribution to "Erik Cederberg / 3DVerkstan" and a link to Faceshield.nu is appreciated.

RabidScallion

over 4 years

THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH. What a great, light weight and comfortable design. Very fast compared to a lot of other designs. You should be proud. I want to circulate these to medical staff as soon as possible but want to make sure I respect your licensing and efforts. Do you require us to include the ReadMe.PDF when packaging to hospitals? These will all be donations.

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Tim: Hi, the closed top is a requirement for many hospitals over here, they will not accept a fully open top since it compromises the protection from drops from above. A bit further spacing is a possibility we are looking into.

Tim42

over 4 years

Compared to the Prusa design, I like how much faster this prints and how much less material it uses. I think the shield is held more securely too (NA letter design). However, the closed top really does not ventilate well. The mask fogs easily and I find I am re-breathing warm air. It is also is too close to my nose. The Prusa has much more generous gap. Is it not possible to space the top farther away and provide some more ventilation?

erikcederb

over 4 years

@HichamB: we currently decided against this due to the substantial improvement to printing time, but please do them like that if you like.

HichamB

over 4 years

Hello, Here they are D-Blaylock Visor_Frame_NORTH_AMERICA_LETTER_v2 https://drive.google.com/open?id=1KXC6MEWNTExIrGOWBFhlwcWhXNdtHM-q Visor_Frame_NORTH_AMERICA_LETTER_v3 https://drive.google.com/open?id=1b6fpe0YbzaQ_nZJOD9-cGXWq5zwgGiLG

Joseph Coleno

over 4 years

Hello makers, Any verified profile or presliced files list as said on the print guide (https://3dverkstan.se/protective-visor/protective-visor-print-guide/). Thanks and tumbs up for this project.

D Blaylock

over 4 years

Erik this is a great design!!! HichamB could you please make the North American versions solid?

HichamB

over 4 years

Hello and Thank you Erik, I made a slight modification to your design; I think that this way it can be cleaned easily. Here are the links to the stl file (european model) and the preview: (I could do the rest of the files if someone needed them) https://drive.google.com/open?id=1zX4jqNsRVS81egxFyISfckddf6FVlTjY https://drive.google.com/open?id=14H9qQHLupHXB7ypfV7v-p_gWYd1JeMA1 Stay safe

erikcederb

over 4 years

I have deleted all the templates and reuploaded them with more consistent naming convention, also added templates for Europeean ISO838 and 4-hole versions.

Phil Kent (Aquariums To Go)

over 4 years

Also looking for the European holes template...I can be a bit daft, but I can't find it. I *think* I need the European version for Australia.

William Neal

over 4 years

Thank you @t1937r0 do you think you can make one for Visor_frame_SWEDEN_v10 as well please?? Thank you!!!!

Andrew Normore

over 4 years

FOLLOW THE PRINT INSTRUCTIONS PEOPLE. I am brand new to 3d printing, my prints are coming out every 30 minutes. PERFECT. Read their very detailed instructions guys -- I am now circulating these to my local township!

Billy de Mulder

over 4 years

Has anyone sliced this in Prusaslicer? I tried to slice this with the recommeded settings as per the article although I can't seem to make it solid using only perimeters. There is always a gap in the middle, unless I use 100% infil. If anyone has a profile for the mk3s (0.4mm nozzle) without infil let me know. thanks.

erikcederb

over 4 years

New version for Europeean 4-hole version + multiple templates added.

Dalfandor

over 4 years

Here is a pdf to act as a guide for the hole punching for the Northamerican 6 hole version https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RCuwbUxHPLNzBuBiJ18FT4Qqkf9k04aT/view?usp=sharing

Adam Bacik

over 4 years

If you have a dual nozzle printer then you can place one on top of another with just enough of a gap for a thin layer of soluble support

Patrick Eells

over 4 years

I agree @Andrew Normore I need to figure out a stackable print situation. It's really slowing us down to have to start a print every hour.

Arkemist

over 4 years

How smooth should the surfaces be? I printed couple of them above each other with breakaway material as supports. It peeled away pretty neatly and the surfaces seem ok to me yet there is a noticeable difference compared to one layer printing. How do I know if I rather should stick to one layer printing? F.

Thinkologist

over 4 years

I need to make some improvements to the frame, can have an editable file (DXF, sldprt...)?

t1937r0

over 4 years

I've created a .dxf file and a .studio3 file (Silhouette Studio software for the Silhouette vinyl cutter) for the NA Letter size V3. You can find them at: http://greynolds.us/FaceShield/ Note that this has 6 holes, which are elliptical (instead of circular) because that worked better for me. No guarantees it'll work for you, but it should.

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Andrew Normore: So far i have not seen any successful attempts at stacking, they all result in rough surfaces that is hard to clean and not suitable for disinfection. Printing a single layer is the optimal for print quality.

Andrew Normore

over 4 years

Can we get instructions on how to make this STACKABLE for overnight print jobs? I'm still new to this :) but 2 printers just arrived and building now.

Michael DeJong

over 4 years

As many other people previously said, there is no template for the V3 North American version. Can we get a DFX file for the latest NA V3 Letter version, please?

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Tombsology Confirmed. This distance between the center holes is what you get if you use a 80mm hole punch set to A6 and punch a A4 sheet from both sides. See the instructions here: https://3dverkstan.se/protective-visor/protective-visor-versions/

Tombsology

over 4 years

I printed off the Visor Frame Europe Iso838 V3 but the front hole centres did not print at 80mm centres, more like 68mm centres. However, the hole centres from either front hole to the side holes are correct at 80mm. I am using a Tronxy-XY2-Pro. Can anyone else confirm if the front hole centres are not 80mm apart please ?

CreativeTools

over 4 years

@CreativeTools has donated and shipped 32+ kg of prime ECOrefill filament to FabLab Halmstad exclusively for protective visor manufacturing.

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Idus: Click this link in the description: https://3dverkstan.se/protective-visor/protective-visor-print-guide/

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Andrew Normore: the click-togheter solution has been discussed, a lot, and there are two problems. 1.) It introduces hard to disinfect cavities. The hospitals we talked to say this is a non-starter for them, they cannot have parts that have joints where they will not be sure that disinfectants will reach. 2.) It drastically increases the tolerance dependency, so makes it much harder to do a well working print, especially with larger nozzles. Otherwise, i agree.

Idus

over 4 years

This is just awesome! Doing my best to spread the word to friends and groups. Too bad I am home sick with influenza-like symptoms (not verified CAVID-19) - so does not meet the demands. :-( However - looking through all the pages and files - I have not found a single notice on expected or recommended infill-percentage and parameters... Maybe write that under "Materials and methods" since it also effects your printing-time if you use too much!.

danielottosen

over 4 years

Smaller version for smaller printers: I tried to print the Visor Frame Sweden V10 in an old Makerbot replicator, but print area was a little too small so I copied the idea creating an STL with max dimensions 178x139x5 mm. (The version is not as good as 3D verkstans since I'm a complete newbie at 3D design) Contact me for receiving the version for testing it out

Christian72D

over 4 years

Is there a hole layout for the european version with four holes? So its easier to try out.

William Neal

over 4 years

@Dalfandor Thank you. I am not good at editing but can you make that into a svg or dxf? Also if you can make it with round corners. Also if you can make one for Visor_frame_SWEDEN_v10 As I started to print that and the files included do not work for that one as well. I'm so close to just tossing all these and giving up at this point. Have about 20 :( no hole punch only using a cameo. Really appreciate it!

Dalfandor

over 4 years

Here is a link to a template I made for the NORTHAMERICANLETTER version. Its just to act as set up page for your hole punch. Let me know if I can make life easier otherwise https://drive.google.com/open?id=1RCuwbUxHPLNzBuBiJ18FT4Qqkf9k04aT

Andrew Normore

over 4 years

Suggestion: Make the side pieces separate and click-together once printed. This would allow everyone with smaller printers to get started, and let bigger printers do more per run (overnight jobs).

Andrew Normore

over 4 years

Cheers from Canada, I will printing 150 of these a day for our hospitals. Thank you so much for producing a fast printing, easy to assemble product. This is a blessing for our health care workers.

William Neal

over 4 years

Well I printed a whole bunch of the Visor_Frame_NORTH_AMERICA_LETTER_v3.stl However none of the laser cut files fit this. Is there plans of creating a laser cut file for this?

free4ever

over 4 years

I like the idea posted earlier of printing several visors on top of each with supports as break away material. But I assume the design will have to modified to fill the tray area near the forehead. Or could supports be generated in the tray area, and hopefully bridging is sufficient for the bottom tray layer. Also, what size is the hole for the US letter template? 6mm or 8mm?

erikcederb

over 4 years

@darksider63: a easy way to adjust it is to just dip the temples of the frame in hot water from a tea kettle and adjust to your liking. The fit will depend greatly on your head size and shape, so making a one-size fits all is very hard.

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Andreas: I have attached a job file above. Um3 Cura Job Visor Frame Sweden V10.3MF

darksider63

over 4 years

I don't know if my head is weird or what, but it hurts behind my ears because the frame is too much curved. Is it possible to make it more straight, like in eyeglasses? I will be adding a rubber band anyway. Thanks!

andreas.gerold@gmail.com

over 4 years

Sorry @Erik, I meant 3MF file (not STL) for Visor Frame Sweden - Ultimaker 3's with the 0.8mm core in my message below. /Anrdreas

Henrik Cornelius

over 4 years

@Kim Nilsson Please get in touch with us at 3DVerkstan and we'll help you out with a proper printer. 08 - 55 11 57 50 or info@3dverkstan.se

andreas.gerold@gmail.com

over 4 years

@Eric Cederberg Could you possibly share the SLT that you mentioned that you use: Visor Frame Sweden - Ultimaker 3's with the 0.8mm core. (I suppose it does two at a time) And possibly if you have, the same but for the 0.4 core as well. Thank you.

NoSubstitute

over 4 years

@Erik, thank you!

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Kim Nilsson: You need approx a 210x210mm build area to print two at a time, and about 160x190mm if you are OK with only doing one at a time. At 3DVerkstan, we are producing these mostly with a number of Ultimaker 3's with the 0.8mm print core for faster printing: https://3dverkstan.se/ultimaker3/

NoSubstitute

over 4 years

What are the size requirements? I can't find that written anywhere, and I don't have a 3D-program yet that can tell me. I was just asked to help out picking a fitting 3D-printer to start producing visors here for our municipality in Sweden.

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Marius Muraru: You have mail

erikcederb

over 4 years

@sylexleola sylexleola No template needed, just take a A4 sheet and a regular europeean standard hole punch (2 holes, 80mm in between)

sylexleola sylexleola

over 4 years

hi everybodies for the Visor Frame Europe Iso838 V3 Witch template for the hole I must print . I tried all but no one works. Thanks

Marius Muraru

over 4 years

Hello Erik, Could you please share an editable 3D model (CATpart, STP...) We have Markforged Onyx One printers and I need to cut the part somehow to be printable. Thank you,

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Gergely Filep We haven't seen any problems with this so far, but the feedback is noted and it might be included in the new revision i am working on.

erikcederb

over 4 years

@perflubron Suggestion noted, a new revision is in the works but lags a bit due to some regulatory troubles i have had to take care of here in Sweden.

erikcederb

over 4 years

@jymboche The north america frame is to be used with the spacer also provided and a regular 3-hole punch. The template file you looked at is to use a single hole punch to fit a letter sized sheet to the original Swedish version. I might need to clarify that. Please see more information here: https://3dverkstan.se/protective-visor/protective-visor-versions/

erikcederb

over 4 years

@Jonas Bohlin You could probably just use two plane cuts and cut down the length of the pegs slightly to fit 155mm, try Meshmixer.

erikcederb

over 4 years

Hi @gmorain The cleaning used here in Sweden is dunking in or wiping with a Isopropyl Alcohol (>70%) based disinfectant, and ABS is compatible a quick wipe or dunk, but not with extended times in the bath. PLA and PET is both more resistant.

erikcederb

over 4 years

Hi @Arkemist. If you can make the breakaway layer to come of smoothly and give good finish at both sides, it would absolutely make sense. I have not had time to try this myself yet.

Arkemist

over 4 years

Hi Eric, Wonderful work! Hope it gets approved by the authorities! Would it make sense to print the visors in several layers on top of each other using breakaway material for support between the layers? This is to be able to leave the printer do its thing for longer and getting more visors in one go. /F.

gmorain

over 4 years

Hi Eric, thanks for sharing this, I am currently printing some for doctors around me (western city in France). I see it is currently being tested by a local hospital, do they have issues with other materials (I only have ABS here at home) ? I was wondering about the chemical properties vs medical cleaning process... Gilles

jobolito

over 4 years

Great design! I tried to print this on my Flashforge Inventor, but turns out the prinbed is 155 mm wide. Is there any way to modify, to accomodate a narrower frame/sharper visor curve, or is that pointless?

jymboche

over 4 years

I printed the visor frame north america letter v3, and the hole template letter, but the holes dont align, also I have 6 tabs on the print, but 8 holes in the letter template. Am i using the wrong letter template or has it not been updated? Thanks!!

perflubron

over 4 years

The screen touches my eyeglasses when mounted (testing with A4 paper). Front might need to be slightly wider, or altered as per Gergely's suggestion.

Gergely Filep

over 4 years

The Prusa RC2 model has 4cm. Thanks!

Gergely Filep

over 4 years

Nice design! Could you make a modification, so the shield - forhead distance will be enoguth to wear a FFP3 mask under it?

UltiErik

almost 5 years

In response to the COVID19 pandemic, European Norms regarding face masks are now published free of charge. This link pertains to personal eye protection: https://www.hzn.hr/UserDocsImages/pdf/HRN%20EN%20166_2002.pdf Another tip in case of using this as a last-resort: PET bottle can also be a source of a fairly strong PET sheet! The curvature might not be idea, but thermal treatment could help there.

Protective Visor by 3DVerkstan

By erikcederb

Comments

License

Tags

erikcederb

YouMagine

Protective Visor by 3DVerkstan

By erikcederb

Add To Collection

Comments

License

Tags

erikcederb

YouMagine