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anderkh

almost 8 years

Do you have a recommendation for a new source of heated bed? The ones listed in the article are no longer available.

alexflage

almost 10 years

@in_the_garage, I finally figured out the issue I was having. The bot was shipped with a 25mm offset in the X direction to account for probe offset from the hot end. Long story short, I made the offset 0 because my prints weren't centering on the print bed. Now that I know a bit more about the offset, I'll be able to add some different starting code to center the bed. Should be good to go now! Thanks again for the nice and simple design.

alexflage

almost 10 years

@in_the_garage, thanks for the reply! I see what you mean about the loss of Z-axis travel. I also rarely print that high and will probably never need to. My question is about the X-axis travel, however. I find that I have to shift the new aluminum heated plate to the right about 15 mm or so to make the Z probe read the new heated bed during the auto-leveling phase. Doing this forces me to sacrifice about 10 mm of X travel. To remedy this, I'm considering disabling the G29 command before every print and I'll just manually level the bed instead with some spring washer. I will also look into changing the coordinates of G29 as well. I was just curious if you ran into a similar situation, or if you're still getting the full X-axis travel with your setup. Ideally, I'd like to still have the full 6x6 kapton taped base area to print on. Thanks for the help!

in_the_garage

almost 10 years

Great comment Alexflage. Yes you loose about 10mm of Z height travel. The smooth rods are long enough to travel this extra distance, its really the threaded rod where you run out of length. Either a longer threaded rod or a small extension/ modification to the coupler to elongate it would work. I rarely need the full 150mm of height unless I am making hollow things like vases in thoes cases the heat bed is removable and I can still use the full travel.

alexflage

almost 10 years

Great design and idea! I just got a metal simple last week and had one of these older aluminum beds and a power supply laying around so I thought I'd give it a try. Quick question for you or anyone here who may have an answer: when you clamp on the bed, do you end up sacrificing about 10 mm of x axis travel to make the z probe sense the new heated bed? I'm finding that this is the case and was wondering if someone has a way around this or if I'm goofing something up. Thanks!

Printrbot Simple Metal Heatbed

By in_the_garage

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