MyMaki Hotend Mount LB for E3D on Makibox

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makibox850
makibox850
over 10 years
No, no. Do not pull the rods from the blocks. I would avoid this strictly.<br><br>Remove the stock heater and mount block first.<br>Remove the right side panel with support rods.<br>http://abload.de/img/seitenteillbz6a.jpg<br><br>remove the front panel<br>http://abload.de/img/frontteil5uxrz.jpg<br><br>Remove the rollers and clamps.<br>http://abload.de/img/klemmendabgc.jpg<br><br>should look similar this&nbsp;<br>http://abload.de/img/ohneklemmenyvlgk.jpg <br>Not exactly the build state, but the rods are free. Ignore the rest.<br>Move x-y to the most right front position. Mount the E3D. Good luck.&nbsp;<br><br>If nothing else goes remove the panels mount and pull the carriages WITH the rods.<br>You may have to mount the block outside of the MB.
Marcus Wolschon
Marcus Wolschon
over 10 years
"Remove the clamps from x,y. This will free the rods." It didn't free the rods for me. Even with pliers I can't pull them out.
makibox850
makibox850
over 10 years
First move the axis to 108,148. Lower the z-axis.<br>Go trough the buildprocess in reversed order to the point where you have mounted the Y-support rails or simply remove the right acrylic panel (outer shell). Remove the clamps from x,y.&nbsp;This will free the rods. Unmount the headmount as usual. Look at the pics below.<br>The E3D hotend will be clamped by both parts. The upper and lower have to be twisted against by 90 degree.<br>Its a tight fit. You may put all bearings into the holes before mounting the holder.<br>If this fails go this route:<br>Place one pair of bushings / bushes on y-axis. Sit down the upper mount.<br>Press the E3D hotend in the upper groove (u-shaped cutout of the upper holder).<br>Put the other pair of bushes / bearings (x-axis) into the appropriate holder.<br>Move the x-holder upward (if bushes / bearings already on the rods) and / or push it along the pair of rods. Slide it in the groove below the upper part.<br>Screw the upper and lower parts together.<br><br>I suggest to start with the y-axis (upper part). You will have bushes, holder and heatend in place. Nothing will fall down.<br><br>EDIT:<br>For your pleasure Sir!<br><br>http://abload.de/img/mount1vokcc.jpg<br>http://abload.de/img/mount2ahkb9.jpg<br>http://abload.de/img/mount3u3jtr.jpg<br>http://abload.de/img/mount4ptjyj.jpg
Marcus Wolschon
Marcus Wolschon
over 10 years
I got it. But how do you assemble this?<br><br>I tried to temporarily disassemble 2 rods as desribed but they are clamped way too tight to be removed ever after the printer is assembled.
Marcus Wolschon
Marcus Wolschon
over 10 years
I found that things didn't fit because my Makibox has a slanting issue in X+Y with the current, temporary mount. So I modified the designs in TinkerCad to be 10x14mm. If that fits it will hopefully allow me to print squares again and then I can print the fixed version of the original mount.
makibox850
makibox850
over 10 years
@Marcus Wolschon Don't know anymore. I moved the cylinder into the right position. Probably I adjusted the diameter to 8mm and 12mm length.<br>Head over to your Goolge+. I placed pics of bushings 4x7x12mm in the upper holder printed with Mymakibox settings. You may edit the files from Mymakibox by yourself. Its not too difficult. I have to edit them befor print within the next days. Will drop you a line. Lets see who is coming first.
My Makibox
My Makibox
over 10 years
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/ijGLa5hjtHS-mount-lower-for-linear-bearings
Marcus Wolschon
Marcus Wolschon
over 10 years
https://tinkercad.com/things/4xquA5EIFNZ-fixed-and-widened-makibox-mount-upper-for-4mm-linear-bearings Widened to 13mm x 9mm for the bearings because I seem to have about 0.5-1.0mm tollerance with my sloppy, temporary E3D mount. (The reason I'm switching to bearings.) Is there a TinkerCAD link for the other half too?
Marcus Wolschon
Marcus Wolschon
over 10 years
makibox850: I cannot download your file without creating somekind of account first. Did you also change the size of the LM4UU bearnings in your design?
makibox850
makibox850
over 10 years
You made a good work, esp. your website. Unfortunaly I'm not the 3D-designer or CAD-engeneer. I have seen your version made from aluminium earlier. Very nice. Have those files saved for later use (from thingiverse I think). If needed the guy's at FabLab will machine them.&nbsp;<br><br>EDIT: after a bit of "tinkering" I got it. Horrible UI tough.<br><br>Take my version with caution. I'm not the big CAD-guy.<br>https://tinkercad.com/things/gjrKZWeOzca
My Makibox
My Makibox
over 10 years
Thanks for the excellent photos - I see what you mean but thought that had been fixed during early revisions. I won't have access to a computer that will let me do the editing for a few days.. but you are free to do it yourself. It's editable in your browser on TinkerCAD https://tinkercad.com/things/9m7ZDafqVMT-mount-upper-for-linear-bearings
makibox850
makibox850
over 10 years
Hi, please inspect the lower surface. As depicted in the rendering the round shaped insert (used in SCAD to substract material from the raw block) is not centred. I assume the lower part should look similar to the lower part. <br>It is&nbsp;mount_upper_for_linear_bearings_8_.stl. Downloaded again right now. Same flaw.<br>Uploaded the pics. <br>http://abload.de/img/1o2ek7.jpg<br>upper und lower side by side <br><br>http://abload.de/img/20tf89.jpg<br>http://abload.de/img/3pmdrw.jpg<br>upper and lower stacked
My Makibox
My Makibox
over 10 years
You may have downloaded an old version, please try again. This versions has been printed and used successfully.
makibox850
makibox850
over 10 years
Please make upper part properly. It has a design flaw. <br>The channels for one pair of rods seems to be absent.<br>The caves for the appropriate pair of bushings are wrong sized and falseplaced.

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