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Theron Gerring

about 5 years

Hello Daniel, how exactly are the electrical components set up inside of the turbine? do you have detailed instructions for assembly of the turbine and the electrical components? i feel like i'm possibly missing something here, but some instruction or a point in the correct direction would be really appreciated and thank you in advance

Martin Longbone

almost 6 years

Thank you for your work on this project which contains a great deal of work. I am aiming to produce this as my first "big print" and am sourcing the non printed components here in the UK. I have managed to get the majority but am having real trouble with the slip ring. The component link in the downloaded document is "not found" Someone below has suggested this... https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/12-5mm-300rpm-Capsule-Slip-Ring-6-Circuits-Wires-2a-240v-Test-Equipment/584093835 Does anyone have any additional information on how to connect this and the stepper to create the generation circuit for a complete newbie to electrical/ electronic wiring please. Thank you

ausloc

about 6 years

My opinion is that correct motor should be Nema 11 (1.1" x 1.1") not Nema 17 (1.7" x 1.7")

ausloc

about 6 years

Daniel - thanks for design - good engineering approach here. Confused - can't print blades vertically - less cleaning up afterwards but too high for my home-made 3DP - where are the 2-part STLs please? Also confused with MkII, MkIII and files labelled "Version 1" - could you do a clerical clean-up please? I hate to waste filament.

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

about 6 years

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/mkiii-50-watt-3d-printable-wind-turbine Boom right here! MkIII

Dmitry Evdokimov

about 6 years

So! Can we see new MK3? Cant wait anymore! :)

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 6 years

Be the first to know when the MKiii which i've name the 3dPowerTurbine is ready! Attached is a sneak peak... https://twitter.com/3dprintable1 https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtYkEdQfmhtgZuRoMAvG8og https://www.instagram.com/3dprintable1 https://3dprintable.myshopify.com

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

almost 7 years

Abraham Pineda - No it would require a redesign of a lot of parts. If its more power you are after i'm designing a much more powerful turbine using an NEMA23 Stepper. Thanks Dan

Abraham Pineda

almost 7 years

Would be possible to customize it in order to use nema 17 or any other normal sized stepper?

Bikemadevs

almost 7 years

Thanks Dan that's great

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

almost 7 years

@Bikemadevs Hello, using the settings in the instruction manual it will take 103meters or approx 811grams. The structure uses the most plastic in a single print at 16.2meters 50% infill. Thanks Dan

Bikemadevs

almost 7 years

Excellent work Daniel, any ideas how much filament will be needed?

Bruno Sabino

about 7 years

Hi Daniel, saw a post of you three months ago looking for the split blade. I think you are looking for this link? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2196967 Cheers, Bruno

Bruno Sabino

about 7 years

Guys, who of you has a more detailed instruction about how the electronics work. How it connects to a for example powerbank and how you should solder all those part. Some picture whould be nice as a reference....

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

Guys, did any of you download Greg Whitmore's split blade before it was taken down? I have another user who's printer isn't big enough to print in 1 shot? Would really appreciate the files if anyone has them? Cheers Dan

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

All, i've added a cable guard into the 'Thing files' with an explanation picture with the other pictures. Simple push fit ring to protect the slipring and stepper cables from the main shaft. Thanks Dan

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

Great news i’m glad it worked out for you :) PS nut-case lolz

akuechler

over 7 years

Typo - I scaled by 2% ...

akuechler

over 7 years

Hey Daniel, I forgot to give you an update on my "nuts-case" ;-) after scaling the blades by .2% as you suggested the m5 nuts just fit into the blades. Thanks for the tip. Andreas

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

@ Michael, that would be great a lot of people have been asking for an NEMA 17 sized turbine. I'm thinking about designing and developing a custom axial (No cogs, no direct contact) generator for the MKIII. I'm measuring the performance of the current turbine to get a reliable baseline to compare against. thanks Dan

Michael Rinkle

over 7 years

any thoughts on experimenting with an Archimedes's screw type of blade design? should yield more torque than props. I'm tinkering with the MKII STL's and fitting a NEMA 17 type to the housing. If all goes well, I may send a copy of the remix to you?

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

hey Michael, it don't think it would work, I think the NEMA 17 is to big and would result in the stepper having to move outwards (vertically) and require new cogs and all sorts.

Michael Rinkle

over 7 years

I have a tray of NEMA 17 unipolar (6-wire) steppers i bought from ebay some time ago, any way I can get a copy of the SLDPRT's for the main housing and rear housing so I can scale the housing to a NEMA 17 40mm x 50mm Long stepper? Is this easy to modify for a NEMA 17 (or two)?

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

Hello all, I want your feedback, if I was to develop a MkIII wind turbine what changes would you want to see? Dan

Sepio

over 7 years

I added a 74 tooth GT2 pulley. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/gt2-main-shaft-pulley-for-mkii-5-watt-3d-printable-wind-turbine The 75 tooth pulley was a little bit to tight and was causing to much friction.

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

If anyone would like parts printing i'd be happy to help here: https://www.3dhubs.com/service/214799

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

Hello Andreas, i’ve just measured the nut at 7.95mm with digital callipers. Perhaps you could do a general upscale of the part in cura by 1.0-1.5%? Thanks Dan

akuechler

over 7 years

Hey Dan, could you check the dimensions of the M5 nuts you planned for inside the blades? Maybe the bunch you got simply have slightly different dimensions than the one I get here in Germany (should not be but hey ...) When I measure them they are between 7.9mm and 7.92mm wide. regards Andreas

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

Sounds good greg not used that material before but will look into it. I too use the gears on mine, I found a small wrap of PTFE tape on the Stepper shaft takes out any concentricity issue when you tighten down the grub screw.

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

Hi Sepio, my original design intent was 3:1 and this was easily achieved with the belts but the cogs just take up to much room and 2:1 was the best I can do in the space I had. I'd test the highest ratio possible, the higher ratio may mean you can run the turbine slower by trimming the PVP (adding more weights) and maintain Power output. Interested to know how you get on! Biggest problem I had with the pulleys was printing the sharp edges on the teeth profile, I spent an age on it and in the end opted for the cogs.

Sepio

over 7 years

Hi Daniël, I have received the GT2 timing belts and pulleys. And I'am going to print some different sized main shaft pulleys to test the best pulley and belt combination. You said "The top pulley is 20 teeth, the bottom is 60 teeth and the belt is 158. This will maintain the 3:1 gear ratio." But if check the gears they have 48 and 24 teeth. This is a 2:1 gear ratio. What is the correct ratio? I have 4 different aluminum top pulleys with 16, 20, 28 and 40 teeth for the stepper motor shaft and I want to stay as close as possible to the optimal gear ratio.

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

@Greg, I wonder if it was an issue with timing, did you try and install the nut the instant the print head moved away from the part? I was stood next to mine nut in hand and had it installed and printing again in 5 seconds flat :) just thought it might have cooled and shrank a little? Really good to hear your getting good feedback! Dan

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

Guys, the turbine was design for the fits and gaps of PLA shrinkage and not ABS, i've printed 11 blades throughout the process without any issue with the nut. If you let me know what size across flats you need for ABS shrinkage (haven't printed with ABS yet..) I can adjust the solid model and provide a STL model specifically for ABS? Let me know, cheers Dan

akuechler

over 7 years

@Greg - I second your problems with the m5 nuts. They holes for the nuts with my prints (ABS, .4 nozzle) came out 7.6mm while m5 is defined with 8mm sides. Do your steel pins hold the torq of the rotating blades? Have you glued them in some way?

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

Here are some pictures of the Slip ring install. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B1OoBxMaa0WLWFdoX2lKYk5RRmc?usp=sharing

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

All, find link to optional Pulley and Belt drive for reduced noise! https://www.youmagine.com/designs/gt2-belt-drive-upgrade-mkii-5-watt-3d-printable-wind-turbine I've included the solid works models so you can modify to improve the fit if required. Cheers Dan

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

Here is the MkII with GT2 Belt driven parts in place. The top pulley is 20 teeth, the bottom is 60 teeth and the belt is 158. This will maintain the 3:1 gear ratio. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1OoBxMaa0WLaTE4S1d6Tm5fRGM/view?usp=sharing

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

@ Sepio, I was toying with the idea of making some monster blades 50% bigger! I think the biggest issue would be as you increase the blade height you need more chord and with more chord at max pitching the blade would likely hit the tower and would need either a longer shaft or a spacer between the disc and shaft! As i broke 2 blades I might as well print some bigger ones :) Let me dig the GT2 stuff out now... its on a backup hard drive...

Sepio

over 7 years

@Dan, did you also test longer rotor blades? Does this result in better power output in lower wind speed conditions? Or does this also change the way the PVP works? I like the AVP design. You should make an airplane or a (overdesigned) room ventilator (or ceiling fan) by powering the stepper motors. ;-)

Sepio

over 7 years

Hi Dan, I'am planning to use an aluminum top pulley and a printed shaft pully. I found this customizable (scad) design for the pulley. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16627 What where the number of teeth on your pulleys and what was the belt length? Sepio

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

PS if your wondering what the hell is in the picture :)) its an Active Variable Pitch (AVP) variant that uses a raspberry Pi Zero to measure the shaft speed and then uses an NEMA11 to actively control the pitch of the blades to a given formula I wrote. With the Pi I was able to remote log in to the turbine to monitor its performance and also tweak any settings on the fly. Effectively this was the test machine that lead to the PVP design shared here.

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

@AKuechler. Seems like you solved your issue but for others... I added a file called easy print tail, I split the tail into 3 easy to print pieces you should defently try that and use a high brim number on the aerofoil sections. Hope this helps! Dan

Sepio

over 7 years

Hi Dan, To reduce the gear noise I have ordered some GT2 pulleys for the nema shaft and timing belts. I have already printed a large pulley for the rotor shaft. If I know which combination of nema pulleys , belt length and shaft pulleys works then I will share the information. I have also removed the voltage regulator from the electrical part inside the nacelle. I am going to put a step up down (boost buck) convertor on the bottom of the pole. I would like to get an output voltage of 5 volt so I will be able to charge an external battery pack. http://www.ebay.com/itm/122140717982?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

akuechler

over 7 years

Tx - found it. So builders keep your hands off the 51mm version of the nema 11 stepper for this design ... 2016-12-31 8:38 GMT+01:00 YouMagine - Supercomputer < supercomputer@youmagine.com>:

Sepio

over 7 years

I used the following slip ring http://www.ebay.com/itm/172277912120?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I bundled 3 wires for the positive side and 3 for the negative side. I tested it with a bench power supply and a 1.5 amp test load. This included 3 meter of speaker wire which goes through the pole. On the input side: 12.003 Volt, 1.514 Amp On the output side: 11,421 Volt, 1.4996 Amp

Sepio

over 7 years

Hi AKuechler, I used the following 32mm nema 11 motor. http://www.ebay.com/itm/172311968516?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

akuechler

over 7 years

Hi Daniel, tx for the great design. Which brand of nema 11 you are using? I found JK28HS51-0674 but the length is specified with 51mm and this would obviously not fit the casing. @Greg - you made my day. I had a bunch of failed prints with this tail fin and the one that finally worked is ways off the quality possible with your design. Thanks very much!

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

@ Greg Whitmore, Hi Greg I think you should take credit for the work you have done, you could post some pictures of the modifications you have made and post a link to your design for others to download? I look forward to seeing what you have done! Thanks Dan

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

@ Sepio, NICE! that really gets some speed up. Its cool you have your other turbine in the back ground interesting to see the speed differences between the two styles. Might have to make some helical gears to reduce the meshing noise... I put mine up yesterday (UK in being battered by a storm) I thought it would be a good test of the safety mechanism in the PVP, unfortunately I didn't secure the pole enough and it fell over and broke two of the blades :( gutted.

Sepio

over 7 years

A video of my running turbine is available here: https://goo.gl/AjPBdl (the wind was very turbulent)

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

@ Roman Dan, Hello the turbines design output is 12volt x 0.4 amp is approx 5Watt. Cheers Dan

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

@ Sepio the Turbine with modifications looks mint good job and I really like the clear pole. I've moved into my new house now and can get back to outdoor testing!

Roman Dan

over 7 years

12V at 4 amps doesn't make 48W?

Sepio

over 7 years

All my build photo's are available on my Google Drive. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-cMSqnE604uLU1YY0Y4ZkpoTDQ There is a folder "Fusion 360 Custom Parts" with the parts I designed. The Fusion 360 export files are inside the zips.

Sepio

over 7 years

My build is finished. Now I have to wait for a windy day. I used a 50mm pipe and designed some custom parts. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/tower-header-50mm-pipe-for-the-mkii-wind-turbine I also created a bearing cover to prevent the electronics inside the structure assembly from touching the shaft nut. you can just press fit this over the bearing. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bearing-cover-for-mkii-5-watt-3d-printable-wind-turbine The Nema 11 Cog was to big. I printed this a 95% and used a 5mm drill to make the hole a litte bit bigger. Now both cogs are turning without to much friction.

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

Hello Joanne, Item 7 the blade x3 includes the nuts (their not called out separately, the nut is also called out on the blade drawing. M4 nuts/bolts won't work without modification to Rotor Assy Item2 the part needs to be an interference fit with Item 13.

tera_dragon

over 7 years

Hmmm on the list of parts for the Rotor Assy it lists 3 M5 40mm bolts, but only 1 M5 nut. I put M4 nuts in my blades.... looks like I'm gonna have to get me some M4 40mm bolts!!

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

@Sepio, I'm happy all your prints have have gone well they look great you have done a really good job! It's official you're the 2nd person on the planet to own one (almost) :))

Sepio

over 7 years

I printed al parts. I have to wait for the bearings before I can start the final assembly. Below a link to the photo's of the all the parts. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-cMSqnE604uLU1YY0Y4ZkpoTDQ All parts did print perfectly. I only need to change the tower header. I my country (the Netherlands) I can't find a pipe with the same inside diameter. I bought a pipe with 70mm outside and 67mm inside diameter (1.5mm wall thicknesses).

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

All, The Tower Assembly Item 7-O-ring seal can be replaced by printed 'Tower Setting spacer'. Dan

cdonc

over 7 years

@daniel davis Thank you for the extra information regarding the parts! Planning to start printing some of the parts this weekend. The design looks really good. The idea with asking the students to try to optimize the blades seems very interesting. I must think on how to integrate the different parts and function in my sessions :) @sepio, Thank you for the direct links, I have ordered the parts now. I will try to start printing the first parts soon.

Sepio

over 7 years

@cdonc, I replaced the F689 (9x17x4) with F689-2RS (9x17x5 mm). The last one is more commonly available (on Ebay) and a lot less expensive. You will need 6 of them. "F689-2RS (9x17x5 mm) Flange Rubber Sealed Ball Bearing", http://www.ebay.com/itm/301156537083?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT For the main location bearing and shaft bearing I bought the F6805ZZ Metal Shielded Flanged Bearings. You wil need 4 of them. "Flange Thin-wall Ball Bearing F6805ZZ Metal Shielded Flanged Bearings", http://www.ebay.com/itm/172203555075?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=471036775986&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Sepio

over 7 years

Hi Dan, Thank you for the new tail design. I am going to print it in a few days. I just started the tower shaft print. Sepio

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

All (For Sepio specifically) I've uploaded a set of STL files called 'Easy Print Tail Fin' i've split the tail fin into three parts and made the base bigger for better bed adhesion. With the easy print tail you are more likely to get a successful print first time. Note I strongly recommend a 30-Brim with the two aerofoil sections for best results. Fixings are M4 Self tapping screws however the push fit should be tight enough on its own or with a little glue.

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

cdonc, I was just thinking about what you said about using it in schools... You could get your students to design their own blades for the turbine and see if they can improve the performance relative to my design. You could back to back test the turbine in controlled conditions using a Fan and measure the power output of the different designs to see which is best. I created an aero spreadsheet that allowed me to alter key parameters of the blade, NACA spec Chord/Thickness/Chamber etc and import into solidworks to be tested in flow works. Just thinking out loud, depends the age group you work with I guess? Dan

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

Hello, I purchased the bearings from RS components others have found them cheaper on Ebay. Both sets of location bearings are the same F68052RS and are sealed and flanged. The setting spacer/seal between the tower and the structure is 25mm Diameter with a thickness of 1.5-2mm, the thickness of this seal will be trial and error as its important the fit between the Tower Header and Structure is snug to prevent the excessive bending of the tower shaft. You could print some setting spacers of different thickness to perfectly fit your turbine and remove the ring all together... Ahhh the grub screw was on the MkI BoM list but not the MkII BoM list, odd but its an M3 Grub. Worth Nothing that Rotor Item 14 and Wind Turbine Assembly Item 6 are actual M4 Self Tapping screws not M3 as pointed out by Sepio. Thanks Dan

cdonc

over 7 years

Great design, and very educational! Planning to print this to use in my class, but I have some questions. 1. There are some errors with the link provided for the bearings. Is it correct that both type of bearings should have a flange? 2. Also, can you provide information on the tower location bearings? You mention three types of different bearings in the BOM but only two of them are specified in details. Tower Location Bearing:? Main location bearing: F68052RS Pitch bearing: F689 3. Tower O-Ring Setting & Seal size and dimensions? 4. Grub screw dimensions?

daniel.djd.davis@gmail.com

over 7 years

Hi Sepio, The STL imports into Cura a little odd however if you rotate the tail on the green axis/orbit by 120 degrees it will sit on the base with no overhangs (maximum unsupported angle is 30 degrees). When the tail is on the build plate it should be in the same orientation as on the installed turbine, I.e as a 'V' with the V spanning from corner to corner of the build plate. I've never had an issue with bed adhesion to be honest even with the smallest of bases, perhaps a Brim with a large number of lines might help? Could even use a raft or design in some custom supports? Cheers Dan

Sepio

over 7 years

Hi Daniel, You are very fast. Thank you for the new designs. How did you print the tail. There is no flat part. I managed to tilt it 1 degree but there is always a place on the model that is not supported. I can use support but with the small contact area I don't think it wil stick to the build plate. Sepio

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