Read all 26 machine reviews in Make:'s Annual Guide to 3D Printing 2015: http://bit.ly/1E9zk17
These test geometries are designed to evaluate specific performance characteristics and motion systems in common low-cost FDM/FFF machines. Traditionally, layer height has been used as a proxy for resolution or quality, but it is a bit of an oversimplification of what is often termed "print quality". The following test geometries individually probe very specific aspects of 3D printer performance in an effort to develop a parametric and quantitative definition of 3D printer quality. One of the exciting aspects of sharing a standard set of test geometries is that everybody can share their results and learn from this pool of results. Please post images of individual test geometries printed on your machines using the "I Made One" feature and include your *slicer, layer height, shells, temperature, and print time. Additionally, the test geometries were modeled in Fusion 360 and are designed to be easily modified easily using a small set of control parameters. Source files (.f3d) can be found in the zipped "FDM_f3d.zip" folder.
Here's how to evaluate and score these test prints: http://wp.me/p22K2I-1TOt
Prints:
1. Dimensional Accuracy
2. Bridging Performance
3. Overhang Performance
4. Negative Space Tolerance
5. Fine Positive Features Performance
6. XY Resonance
7. Z Resonance
Here's how to evaluate and score these test prints → «This site is marked private by its owner.»
Buj
about 8 years
Has anyone setup a form to allow data evaluation/comparison?
Peetersm
almost 10 years
<p>Printing on my UM+ having trouble with blobs on the towers of the fine features print.</p><p><a rel="nofollow" target="_blank" href="http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/10396-retraction-blobs-how-to-minimize/">http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/10396-retraction-blobs-how-to-minimize/</a></p>
Greg42
about 10 years
For the accuracy/backlash test, I suggest that people report the measured length of the diameter in the X direction and the Y direction so that there will be a clear picture of where different people's results differ.<div><br></div><div>Please remember to list:</div><div>1. Filament source</div><div>2. Print time since slower printing may increase the quality of a print</div><div>3. Software settings used such as layer height, nozzle temperature and quality mode.</div>
aviphysics
about 10 years
<p>@Cymon overhang tests are highly dependent on layer height. As long as your print head isn't too hot, you mostly just have to make sure your next layer will overlap at least 50% with the layer below it. e.g. with 0.1 mm layer height an 0.4 mm line width, you can print up to 26 degrees reasonable well. At 0.15 mm layer height, the limit is more like 36 degrees. So, if you want to push the machine to failure, just make your layers thicker.</p><p>Of course, nozzle geometry also plays some roll, but the aforementioned has been my general experience. I would also admit that at some point, the layer below would be to thin to support plastic being extruded on to it or absorb the heat of the extruded plastic without melting, but I think that is more of a material limitation than a limitation of the machine.</p>
3DPProfessor
about 10 years
I don't like that the overhang stops at 70 degrees. Why stop before you know it will fail. Go for failure and see who survives.