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Ray Capararo

about 6 years

Very clever design, I have been trying to work out a simple way to make a bearing spool holder. Fresh idea's are great when your stuck with your own idea's. Thank you.

bortek

about 7 years

Hi Is it possible to make Mount part (the one that attaches to the case of the printer) thinner therefore making the whole filament spool closer to the case of the printer?

Anool

over 7 years

Funny I can't edit comments. I missed mentioning I printed the 608 version.

Right2Make

over 7 years

Now only if wheel of fortune spun that good. It could be a 3 hour show! Or whats that show that has the showcase showdown... Oh yea the price is right.

Marcus Wolschon

over 8 years

I find it hard to find anything to grab that doesn't rotate when I want to take the empty spool off and replace it. Also the "608 nut" adds a lot of depth. I don't know how to modify it yet to solve both issues.

Marcus Wolschon

over 8 years

I have a modified version of 608-mount that includes a load cell for meassuring the weight of the remaining filament on the spool. Do you want your logo removed? Obviously I'll give proper attribution in the description and share it with the same license when it's done.

Marcus Wolschon

over 8 years

Works very well! "608 Nut" adds a lot of depth. I'll have to find a way to make is slimmer, so the machine still fits into the case I had custom made for it.

Marcus Wolschon

over 8 years

What's the maximum spool diameter that fits? (I'm using Colorfabb 2.2Kg spools.)

butchblades

over 8 years

This is the greatest...I used the 626 bearings.

alexchally

over 8 years

I made this with Tricki's 74mm core and the 608 bearings, and it works very nicely. I didn't have any M8 threaded rod, so I used some 5/16-18 rod I had laying around, and that worked just fine.

Tricki

over 8 years

Extended 74mm core and spacer for 608 bearings can now be found here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/74-mm-core-for-iroberti-spoolholder Thanks for an awesome spoolholder iRoberti :)

Nightram

almost 9 years

I found the slot into the Ultimaker 2 a little sloppy, other than that it was great! Any chance you can make a thinner spool (utilising most of the same parts). I have some spools that are 32mm and wont fit on this.

stylewarz

about 9 years

I love this holder. Would it be possible to get the Core 2 in a 100mm version. Some of my 1KG spools are a lot deeper and therefore don't fit on the 80mm core.

Bert-Jan Walker

about 9 years

@jeex, no worries, I've also printed this great add-on in Colorfab PLA over a year ago and had no issues with the strength of that particular piece. It works like a charm and has never failed

jeex

about 9 years

Just printed it in Colorfabb PLA. Works great. Although i keep my doubts at the part that goes into the UM2. It's all hanging at e thin piece of PLA. The original UM2 broke down at that very spot. Think i'll print that part out of PETG (Hestay.nl) which is really strong, but does not smell as bad as ABS.

vegansbane

over 9 years

<p>Thank you for this awesome design Robert - this is a huge improvement that the factory ought to consider working into the stock system!</p><p>For anyone stuck in a metric-impaired region like myself, <b>5/16" is 7.9375 mm</b>, so the 608 bearing version can be built using 5/16" screws/nuts or threaded rod in place of the M8 hardware.  It's plenty close enough for this use, I can assure you, and your local hardware store is likely to have it in stock.</p>

dirtrider259

almost 10 years

Robert, your stuff is great! Quick question, does the 80mm core require a longer spacer? I'm worried I'm going to cut my M6 rod too short... Thanks

RonniiRaygun

almost 10 years

Could you post the SW files you did also. I'd like to mess around with the expanding hubs if I could for the size bearings I have laying around and also the Filament spools. I figured I could configure it depending on the size rolls I have.

MelKolo

about 10 years

<p>One question I'm currently printing the 608 version...Are these the latest files ref. to Randy's update?</p>

RandyInLA

about 10 years

I have successfully increased the length of the 608 core2 by two outer threads. Was just enough to secure the loose filament holder. Had to learn some basic solid boolean operations in Blender to make it work. Was tricky to make it longer by exactly two outer threads without messing up the inner threads :) Also created a short spacer to use in place of the first 8mm nut and elongated the longer spacer by 6 or 7 mm. Don't know what to do with them at this point. |Robert|, do I send them to you or upload them to my youmagine account and link back to this page somehow?

abormor

about 10 years

Thank you very much for your design iRobertl! I have some PLA spools which are thicker than the UM original one, could you please design a larger (double) core 2 ? Thank you

pschuster

about 10 years

Awesome. Works great. And very easy to print with Layer Height 0.1, 20% infill and 50mm speed. Thank you very much for your great work.

Clio

about 10 years

They are the original files only the parts core1, core 2, the nut and the spacer are printed with the Z only sacled to 1.5 it works like a charm

RandyInLA

about 10 years

Nice, Clio! I too have found the length juuuuuuust a little too short to secure the loose-filament-holder I printed. Are you planning on putting the files up on here?

Clio

about 10 years

I extended core1, core 2, the nut and the spacer on the Z axe with 50 % and now I can use the Colorfabb XT spools with a diam of 10 cm without a problem

Jamtanker

about 10 years

So what is the best entry level printer? Any advice much appreciated.

Stu_le_brew

about 10 years

My model works with the modified spool from the link above, at each end of the central reel is a fixation that has locates in the groove in my designed stand, it is free standing and not connected directly to the printer, by the way you need two of my designs one each side. <br>So what I am suggesting is to make these stands taller

RandyInLA

about 10 years

<p>Zews, I have the same issue with the Faberdashery filament!  I love that it's got a wider diameter to the windings so it feeds through my bowden tube without catching, but I hate that it doesn't come on a spool.  After I finish |Robert|'s spool holder, I plan on printing up the spool model for Faberdashery-type filament.  </p><p>Here is a good photo of the spool as it slides onto the original Ultimaker 2 spool holder:</p><p><a target="_blank" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.youmagine.com/users/iroberti">https://www.youmagine.com/contributions/207</a></p><p>And here is the Youmagine model page to download the files:<br></p><p><a target="_blank" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.youmagine.com/designs/loose-filament-holder-v3">https://www.youmagine.com/designs/loose-filament-holder-v3</a><br></p><p>As you can see, the loose filament does not touch the table the U2 is sitting on and you don't have to adjust |Robert|'s spool holder to attach higher onto the U2. <br></p><p>Good luck!<br></p><p>-=Randy</p>

Zews

about 10 years

I downloaded that model. How would it attach to the back of the UM2, and how it would hold a spool, higher than spools are held by default? What is that groove in the U-shaped end for?

Stu_le_brew

about 10 years

I agree its an amassing piece of work, but I am developing a floor based spool mount which uses the core spool centre which maybe could work for you - perhaps made taller ?  the link below shows my work so far - hope this helps S<br><br> <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/77juuwjj3r4cdki/reel%20holder%20mark3.stl?dl=0" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.dropbox.com/s/77juuwjj3r4cdki/reel%20holder%20mark3.stl?dl=0</a>

Zews

about 10 years

Stu_le_brew, wow, that's quite a scary looking contraption. That looks to me like someone is trying to invent a better mouse trap. :-)  That is not what I am looking for. <div><br></div><div>I am looking for something very simple. Just a small bracket really that hooks over the top on the back of the printer, that allows for attaching Robert's spool holder much higher, so very large adjustable filament coil holders can also be attached without those filaments touching the table on which the printer sits.<br><br>I thought I would be able to find something like that.  So far I have been unsuccessful.  If only I knew what search term to use.</div>

Stu_le_brew

about 10 years

Hi Zews, you may like to check out <a href="http://www.youmagine.com/designs/3027" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.youmagine.com/designs/3027</a> its a complete system based on IRobertI's spool holder, I use IRobertI's holder and am very pleased with it too. <br>I have been developing a floor based addition to UltiArjans rail system.

Zews

about 10 years

This spool holder works great for most small to mid sized spools. I would like to attach this holder much higher to the back of my UM2 than in the three holes on the back of the printer. <div><br></div><div>The reason for that is that I have many filaments by Faberdashery that have very large diameter coils. (I also have to print a adjustable holder for these large filament coils, because they are sold without spools). The Faberdashery filaments will pretty much touch the table my printer is sitting on if I attach this spool holder in the holes on the back. I could of course raise my printer on blocks, but I don't find that a good solution, because it looks ugly. </div><div><br></div><div>Does anyone know of a model on YouMagine (or anywhere else) that allows for higher placement of this spool holder. I don't even know what search term to use.</div>

RandyInLA

about 10 years

<p>;)</p><p>Re: a second, smaller spacer to replace the inner nut, I measured the distance between the existing spacer and a single locking nut screwed on flush with the end, 8.23mm, and made a smaller spacer that width.  The main bolt assembly fits together perfectly now with the end of the bolt flush with the outside of the locking nut (nylon inside the nut).  I'll post some pictures when I'm done.  </p><p>Just thought of another needed (in my clumsy opinion) U2 add on:  A power switch cover/protector, like they use to cover rocket launch switches!  The filament wasn't looped around that little black plastic roller in the back lower right (as viewed from the front) so while reaching around from the left to feel my way to put it back on, my wrist bumped the power switch.  D'OH!  Instant print fail!  </p>

IRobertI

about 10 years

Re the "R", I like the way you think :D

RandyInLA

about 10 years

Printing this up as I type. Can't wait to have a smooth feed! Thank you for creating this and putting it out there! Couldn't find any place that carried metric threaded rod, so ordered a 3' M8 rod off of eBay. In the mean time, I too have a 95mm M8 bolt. The bolt doesn't have thread all the way up to the head, but it seems that it will work fine if I just print out another small spacer the same width as the M8 nut that goes on the outside of the mount. By the way, I noticed your "R" logo on the outside of the mount. (that IS for Randy, right? ;) ) You really should put that on the exact opposite side, on the backside of the big half circle latch that rests against the inside of the back wall. That way, your logo would be seen every time someone looks inside the build area. You'll be on countless time lapse videos for years to come :)

Peter Amos

about 10 years

Fantastic mod, as a newbie I was devastated to find that the spools I ordered from different sources were not standard; with your help the problem is solved with panache! Thank you.

IRobertI

over 10 years

It's been a while since I printed this one so I can't remember exactly what I used. But, I probably used my standard(ish) 0.1mm @50mm/s with 20% infill.

oesile

over 10 years

Thanks IRobertl, this is amazing! What are the recommended settings to print?

theshort

over 10 years

<p>Wow that was fast thanks alot.</p>

IRobertI

over 10 years

STEP files added.

theshort

over 10 years

Any chance you would be willing to share some STEP files so I could do some modifications. I printed this and love it, great design. I just would like to make some tweaks. Mainly the 608 core1, 608 core2 and 608 mount. Thanks

UltiArjan

over 10 years

Stu, have a look at the free design spark mechanical ... it's 1000x better than 123D. http://www.rs-online.com/designspark/electronics/eng/page/mechanical

Stu_le_brew

over 10 years

Just took a look at SolidWorks website, boy I would love to have access to that software, but it looks expensive so will have to stick with 123D Design

IRobertI

over 10 years

I used SolidWorks for this. I created them with a helix spiral along the length of one part. A rough thread outline was drawn and then swept along the path. I then used the inner part as a cutting tool to cut the matching threads into the outer part (with a bit of extra clearance of course).

Stu_le_brew

over 10 years

Big thanks IRobertI - excellent design I did the 608 version, just wondered what software you used for the design ? interested in how you did the treads

sam.bianchibazzi

over 10 years

Ok Thanks! I'm looking for someone that has setup repetier host/slic3r to work with ultimaker 2!

IRobertI

over 10 years

I sliced these with cura and printed them on an UM2 which uses an SD-card.

sam.bianchibazzi

over 10 years

Wow, very cool! Do you Robert slice these parts with Cura or Slic3r and then Repetier Host?

Drato

over 10 years

Thanks a lot, didnt want to order the wrong ones.

IRobertI

over 10 years

That would be correct Drato. Poor wording on my part.

Drato

over 10 years

Hey guys, maybe this is a dumb question but does "1x 6mm threaded rod, 95+mm long" mean an M6 threaded rod (i.e. outer diameter)?

UltiArjan

over 10 years

I still like the design a lot, but when using collorFab XT (real "springy" material) I switch back to the UM2 original holder, need more friction with this material not to unroll automatically and create a mess.

KitWasHere

over 10 years

I bought an M8 bolt at Sears Hardware (in the US) for like $1.50 I think, which is sort of a lot for a bolt I guess but still pocket change. They've got a whole metric hardware aisle if you have one near you. <br><br> And I agree with Robert, don't waste your money on precision parts. I used the wood spool holder that came with my UM1 forever, only made this because I already had the bearings. Not a super critical part

Zews

over 10 years

I am in the USA (originally from Holland) where anything metric is a bit more difficult to get, and always more expensive than imperial anyway. Only McMaster-Carr seems to have the required 6 mm threaded rod. I definitely agree that getting the treaded rod will be a lot less work.

IRobertI

over 10 years

No, don't bother with that, it would be a waste of money and effort.

Zews

over 10 years

626 bearings are not too difficult to find. I regularly buy supplies and tools from industrial supply companies like MSC (www.mscdirect.com), McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/), and Small Parts (now http://www.amazonsupply.com/ unfortunately). They all have them, albeit a bit more expensive than 608. I also found them on eBay for much less.  I may indeed go for the smaller ones though, since they would be a bit more versatile. <br><br>Would it be a good idea to get precision ground and stainless rod instead of threaded rod, and then just thread the ends for the nuts? My reasoning being, that the solid rod would provide a better (tighter) fit with the bearings.

KitWasHere

over 10 years

Made this for my UM1 and love it! Used Mooncactus' mount here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:137602 Any recommendations for a loose filament spool to use with this? @Zews 608 bearings are super common, which is why I made that version. Just used some old skateboard bearings I had lying around. 626 are smaller though so that version would be more versatile

IRobertI

over 10 years

This design doesn't fit all spools either I'm afraid. I made the first design for 626 bearings because that was what I happened to have in my junk drawer. 608 bearings are a bit more common and people asked for a version that fit those as well. It's up to you which to use.

Zews

over 10 years

I am new to 3D printing, and will only receive my UM2 is a few days. I have read in the forums, that certain filament spools do not fit on the spool holder that comes with the printer. 1. May I assume that this design will accommodate various spool core diameters 2. Why would I choose 608 bearings instead of 626? Or vice versa?

Bert-Jan Walker

over 10 years

Very nice design and it works perfect! I had to downsize the spacer to 56 mm to make it fit perfectly together (used the 6mm version)

UltiArjan

over 10 years

Thanks for the design! I made the 608 version, had to cutt off a few mm from the inner spacer tube. I used a 10cm m8 bold with a 6 sided head instead of a separate bold and rod, so I'm sure it will never get loose.

IRobertI

almost 11 years

I'm not using a filament guide at all. I don't think I got any with my printer.

sergioka

almost 11 years

Thanks for the BOM. It works perfectly :) Are you also using a different type of filament guide? Bye:)

IRobertI

almost 11 years

I forgot to update the BOM, sorry about that (that's what happens when you have the design in more than one place.). You'll needs M8 size parts for the 608 bearing.

sergioka

almost 11 years

Hi IRobertI, very nice design. I am printing it right now. Is the Bill of Materials of the 608 Version different to the standard version except for the bearings? May I ask you which Software you have used to design the spoolholder? Thanks in advance

hreedijk

almost 11 years

Fantastic design, printing it right now. Made a mount for my UM1, unfortunatly cannot post a remix of it here like on Thingiverse.

Low friction UM2 spoolholder

By IRobertI

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IRobertI

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Low friction UM2 spoolholder

By IRobertI

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