For quick prototyping on Raspberry PI when you don't want your infra-red LEDs connected directly to the night-vision camera. The voltage can then be supplied separatelly and controlled using GPIO and a back-current protected power source. Useful when the battery has to be preserved when the camera isn't taking any pictures.
The inside has a square hole where a heatsink can be placed. Don't let the 3.3V 300mA LED get hot enough to deform the plastic. Use infra-red protection goggles if looking into the light source or you'll end up with a very bad headache.
Legal note: LEGO lost a court case where it was decided that the standard itself cannot be copyrighted because it had mathematical features more suitable for a patent, which would've expired a long time ago if they would've filed for one. According to copyright law, it's okay to print parts compatible with LEGO, but not print a part of a standard design that would violate LEGO's copyright. The bottom of the mount does not immitate the design of LEGO in any other way than the dimensions needed for compatibility. Law is always fuzzy and changing, but this part is certainly both legal and ethical to print by promoting fair competition.
Technical
Printed in PLA on Wanhao Duplicator I3 with compensation for normal line thickness. You must calibrate your printer before printing the bottom, or it won't fit on your LEGO. Then measure to see if your settings need a modification to the inner and outer thickness to the model. Wait for the print to cool off and shrink, then use fine sandpaper until it fits with lego without seams. Make dents for fitting metal parts on the circuit-board, or the LED will tilt when screwed tight. Drag the soldering-iron quickly over layer lines to increase external layed adhesion where most force is applied from collisions. Ten light strokes per mm gives a round look on the corners. Be careful not to overheat any region connected to LEGO, because 20 micrometers off will make it too loose or tight.
Attach the LED using two M2 screws of legth 4-10mm. The LEGO bottom is soldered with the flat side against the legs. Cables are attached around the M2 screws with contact against the conducting plates.