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Oskar Schölander

over 2 years

I love your design and have been using V3 for a long time. I finally upgraded to V5 and also a 35W heat cartridge. I have a question regarding fan speed. For regular PLA, do you think I should still lower the fan speed to 30% which I've done for some time. I don't mind, but would be nice to be able to do 100% but maybe that is not needed or even possible with your fan mount? So basically... What fan speed do you recommend for materials such as PLA and PET? Thanks for your work!

mechaMecha

about 7 years

Skipy7, I'm sorry you're having trouble with my design. I'm not sure why there would be a lot of vibration noise on low speed. I've never had that problem. The only thing I can think of is perhaps the fans may be a bit loose. Are the fans fairly tight when you insert them into the mount? As far as the mount hitting the left side of the printer, you may be able to shift the x end stop a bit. If not, I would recommend using an older version of the fan mount (v3).

Skipy7

about 7 years

Installed this and got the fan cable longer on my UM2+ but having 2 issues when it homes the fan hits the left side of the printer, and when the fans are on low speed they buzz and on 100% they add alot of vibration and makes lots of noise because of that. Is there anyway to fix these issues.

mechaMecha

about 7 years

I'm sorry that you had problems with v4. I can definitely push the head into the sides of my printer by hand, but it never does that while I'm printing. The printers are hand assembled, so there is most likely some variation in the placement of the x-axis end stop.

bortek

about 7 years

I had the same problem as the other guy reported, that the had now hits the left and right sides. This was V4. Strange that you dont have that problem on your UM2 :) Wonder if there are different versions of UM2, should not be. Anyway I will print ver3 instead and try it out.

mechaMecha

over 7 years

Skipy7, the wires coming out of the fans don't have to point up when you mount them. There are small notches on the sides of the fans that will allow you to mount the fans with the wires pointing towards the back of the fan mount without pinching them. I don't know if this helps in any way, but I thought I'd mention it.

mechaMecha

over 7 years

I apologize for that, Skipy7. That's surprising, though, because I would expect there to be enough slack in the wires, which go all the way through the long black mesh harness and around to the back of the printer. Are you sure you can't gently pull a little more slack through there?

Skipy7

over 7 years

I dont think this fits UM2+ the cables on the fans are to short as the mount fits more to the front of the head assembly the fans dont reach.

mechaMecha

over 7 years

Thanks for the assist, Stefan! Skipy7, Here's another link that describes the basic autotune procedure: http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning Or, if you happen to use the tinker firmware, you can do it from the preferences/temperature control menu

Nicolinux

over 7 years

Yep: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/18625-solved-um2-pid-autotune-failed

Skipy7

over 7 years

@Stefan Nicolin Is there any resources on doing a PID autotune on a UM2+ as I could not find anything on the Ultimaker resources.

Nicolinux

over 7 years

@Skipy7: If the fan mount changes, the airflow changes too. It might be that the nozzle will cool down faster because more air is directed to it. This changes the heating/cooling behaviour during a print. A new PID autotune would take it into account.

Skipy7

over 7 years

mechaMecha you commented on doing a PID autotune just want to know the reason behind needing to do this?

mechaMecha

over 7 years

Glad to hear it printed well for you, Pelphry17! Make sure you do a PID autotune with your fans set to the speed you normally print at.

Tyler Winegarner

over 7 years

Thanks, I'll give it a shot!

mechaMecha

over 7 years

Hi, Tyler. That's really strange, because I have an Ultimaker 2, so that's what this fan mount is specifically designed for. I'm sorry you had problems with the V4 design. V3 has more clearance on the sides, so I'd suggest using that instead.

Tyler Winegarner

over 7 years

I was unable to use the shroud (v4) in an ultimaker 2 without crashing the head into the sides of the printer. Is there a better version for the Ultimaker 2?

MrTechAgent

over 8 years

Works great!

stylewarz

over 8 years

No worries at all. Let me see how I could figure out where there are a few tweaks to make and I'll post them here. Nether the less, great design! Looks stealthy

mechaMecha

over 8 years

Sorry, stylewarz, I'm not familiar with the UM2 Extended or how it may differ from the original UM2. If you need me to make some slight modifications to the fan mount, though, let me know, and I'll see what I can do.

stylewarz

over 8 years

I'm not sure what I've done wrong. But when I want to mount it to my Ultimaker2Extended the Fan Mount touches the front right screw of the hotend carage. When looking underneath the Hotend does not stick out enough. Is this an Extended "problem"?

mechaMecha

over 8 years

This is one of the main reasons I'm really happy I bought an Ultimaker. The community is very resourceful and always willing to help others. Thanks for the great comments! I almost always print in PLA, so I haven't had to add any heat resistance to my fan mount, but I'm glad you guys found an easy mod to suit your needs!

Nicolinux

over 8 years

@drofnas I didn't use aluminium tape but Kapton. Should be this one: http://www.amazon.com/Mil-Kapton-Tape-Polyimide-yds/dp/B006ZFNB2I/ref=sr_1_1 In put it only on the inside of the fan shroud where the nozzle and heater block are closest to the plastic.

drofnas

over 8 years

@EldRick or @Nicolinux, is this the type of stuff you used to line the inner area of this fan hood? http://www.amazon.com/Duck-240225-Repair-Aluminum-1-88-Inch/dp/B0000DI82J Did you also put Kapton take "over" all the aluminum tape, or just along the edging to help secure it in place? Wanted to make sure I do it right the first-ish time, since I can't seem to find pictures of what people did before they installed a fan hood. I plan on printing this in ColorFabb XT (White).

Nicolinux

almost 9 years

I printed it in XT and had no problems so far. But since I started printing a lot at 260° the part closest to the nozzle started to deform slightly. I guess the tip with kapton tape on the inside is a very good one. If you only print with PLA, you don't need the tape.

EldRick

almost 9 years

I printed this in ABS, and tried to use it to print ABS - it browned and sagged on the left side where the plastic is close to the side of the Olssen block. I was able to use an ABS one long enough to print v2 in clear polycarbonate, at 260C. I used some adhesive aluminum duct-sealing tape to line the duct on the inside surfaces, and some Kapton tape to help hold that in place. The shiny alum should reflect some IR back at the heater block, and distribute and cool what it does absorb. Works great: I've even printed spare ducts in polycarbonate at 260C with no apparent issues - no melting, sagging, browning, or crystallization of the material.

mechaMecha

about 9 years

Thanks, EldRick! I also tried a number of fan mount designs and none of them quite fit my needs, which is why I decided to make my own mod. I'm glad you found it useful!

EldRick

about 9 years

This is an excellent design. It cools the piece, rather than trying to cool the plastic as it comes out of the nozzle. By cooling the piece better, temperature-related issues are greatly reduced.It is also lighter for better print precision, and does not rattle like the metal OEM piece.IMHO this is the best of the UM2 fan-shroud designs on Youmagine, and I've tried them all.