Electrical Outlet - Vacuum Port Wall Plate

By john.tatum

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Electrical Outlet - Vacuum Port Wall Plate

With all the barber shops being closed I had to start cutting my own hair. I ended up purchasing a vacuum attachment, some hose, and hose ends made by a company called [Arrco](http://www.arrco.net/) when I purchased a set of clippers. My intention was to build an adapter to connect the vacuum hose on the clippers to a shop-vac, but it turns out the hose end is a standard size, 1 1/4". I have a small-ish bathroom, so space is at a premium. It would also be nice not to have to move everything in and out to setup for a haircut. As it turns out, there is enough room in the cabinet under the sink to put the vacuum. I figured this wall plate would be something that existed, because it seems like a common use case for barber shops. Not only does this particular configuration not exist, but the only vacuum port wall plates I could find were for dust collection systems and central vacuum systems. Neither of these options use a 1 1/4" port, or include a standard NEMA 5-15R outlet. Panel mount simplex (ie, single outlet) receptacles are available, but are square, which I do not think would be very aesthetically pleasing (above a round vacuum port). I looked for a normal outlet (the circle with the top and bottom flattened) and the only simplex options I could find were meant to be mounted in the middle of a handy box, so they were all quite bulky. I started looking at power cord ends and found some options that I thought would work. I ended up going with the [Leviton 515CR](https://www.leviton.com/en/products/515CR) for a couple reasons: * The outer diameter was fairly small (1.4" and some change) - I wanted to get close to the 1 1/4" of the vacuum port * It was available in black (lots of options in white, yellow, and orange, but relatively few in black). The only issue is that the receptacle itself is tapered toward the front, so there is a small gap around the front of the receptacle when installed. It is nothing a gasket or filler cannot fix. The threaded boss on the back of the receptacle is threaded for 1/2" 14 TPI NPSL (ish), which allows for the use of standard 1/2" EMT conduit connectors (set screw connectors, compression connectors, offsets, elbows, etc.). In the three images showing different options, the wall plate is next to a standard 2 x 4 for reference. Also note that the elbow is not actually threaded into the boss (due to being next to the 2 x 4). For mounting the plate I added a countersunk hole for a #8 machine screw, which is a bit bigger than what standard wall plates use, this way a larger screw with deeper threads (ie, for threading directly into wood panel) can be used if desired. The bosses for the holes for the screws to attach the receptacle are not threaded, as the screws used are essentially self-tapping. The hole is 0.098" nominal, but the actual size of the printed holes may vary depending on the dimensional accuracy of the printer and quality settings used. The tolerances for these screw threads are fairly tight, as the threads themselves are not very deep. Instead of trying to compensate for variation I simply modeled them to spec and chased these holes with a #40 drill bit (0.098") prior to assembly. I also chased the tops of the bosses with a larger drill bit to clean them up a bit before assembly. I printed this as oriented, but this generated quite a bit of support material. Post-processing was quite time consuming, and required more than just a utility blade. It may be worthwhile to experiment with the orientation of the model prior to slicing. If you find a way to reduce the amount of support (and post-processing), please share your findings.
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Joined about 7 years ago Texas, U.S.A.
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