See the more detailed build log at: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1877-e3d-all-metal-hotend-for-ultimaker/page-4 *General update after months of use:* I initially printed this in PLA, expecting to eventually replace it in a more temperature resistant material. *However*, I'm happy to say that not only has the original head held up perfectly with no discernable changes anywhere - it has held up for many long prints with extremely high nozzle temps - *ie* 6 hour prints at 290°C. I now don't see any reason to print this is a material other than PLA.Print each piece on a slow, cool, high quality setting - without support. Print the main body and the clamp piece in the same orientation in which they will be used in the machine. The main printhead body will need some manual correction of curling (flattening edges with an x-acto or similar) during the bridging of the active cooling fan duct, but after that, it's all smooth. The print fan duct should print with the fan mount side touching the bed.
Hi, I see that you put the original heater into a normal e3d heater block. Did you experience any downsides from the heater being exposed to the air so much on both sides?
Lisca
over 8 years
Sorry, newbie stuff, found a way. Printing right now
Lisca
over 8 years
how do we separate the parts? I´m trying to print it but cant find a position and cant break away the parts.
jensa
over 10 years
Good feedback. I'm using a v5 hotend from E3D on a new printer and have not had any problems with PLA on it yet. Let's hope that's solved then as I'm very happy with the results thus far. My main reason for choosing E3D was the ability to go higher in temperature so I could print Nylon.
I'll check out the Merlin. Can't seem to find 3mm Ubis any more though? Looks like Printrbot has retired them and they're the only reseller I can find. Hard to find a spec on the Ubis to see how high it can go.
nhfoley
over 10 years
Should note that the above comment about the E3D was about printing PLA. Printing ABS is something it does very well. I only print in PLA or XT though.
nhfoley
over 10 years
I abandoned the E3D a long time ago... unfortunately it would clog constantly and frequently need re-tightening or thermistor adjustment.
The UBIS however has printed for thousands of hours without issue and the quality is outstanding. I would also look at the Merlin hotend, which I have not tested, but seems to be a smart design and has produced some awesome prints by users in the UM forums.
jensa
over 10 years
Hi Nick,
Is this the solution you use on your UM still, or did you swap to the Ubis hotend? I'd love a comment on which is better suited for the UM.
I solve complex problems, design new futures, explore obscure corners of the world. Head of Industrial Design at http://www.socialbicycles.com. Partner in robotics at http://ww...