Custom engine covers (UM2)

By mnis

31
18
Free
It's free to download
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Custom engine covers (UM2)

By mnis

31
18
Free
It's free to download

Information

Custom engine covers (UM2)

By mnis

at 2024-05-03
!!! Project finished. Occasionally there will be minor improvements, but no major design changes !!!• This Parts are components of my One Man - *Co.Me.Do.ONE - project. CP-v8 (Co.Me.Do. - Part No: 8). To use this printable objects, no additional components are required. • Here you have your own personal options: • Create cool looking and perfectly fitting engine covers for your very own "Ultimaker 2". • Accept either the basic design and use your preferred material / color. And or do something even better from it. If you're already familiar with "SketchUp", then you can change and further customize these covers. • Have the courage and show your very own engine covers :-) • Are you looking for an easy way to cool the engines of your lovely machine ? The covers already include a holder for standard 40 mm fans, which can be used if necessary. • And for now (2015-02-11) a basic set for passive cooling is included. • All prints done?...So go ahead...Each original engine cover has only a single easy-to-find screw !• Information regarding enhancements and bug fixes you will find in the "Comment" section. Photos with the already assembled object does not show the latest design.• Again and again: My work for you lives solely by your feedback. If something is wrong or useless in my designs, I need more information from you so that I can ever change anything. Suggestions to improve or simplify my designs and descriptions are highly desirable. So if you use my designs and parts thereof, please take a few moments to convey a little feedback.

Technical

!!! ATTENTION !!! HIGH LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY !!! To obtain good to very good results and avoid frustration, please read all warnings and instructions available here carefully. !!! CAUTION !!! - ALL 3D objects created with SketchUpMake. / All Materials usable...This parts printed with: InnoFill and Ultimaker PLA / Layer: 0.1mm / Infill: =>35 Percent / Temp: 215 Degree / Speed: 35>>>70mm/s. - Disadvantages there are basically no. "PLA" is quite sufficient, because it must be used no special heat-resistant material. Unless you use your Ultimaker 2 in tropical regions, then you better take "ABS". - CHALLENGE: Try it on a single object to get two good-looking exterior surfaces. - NOTES: Position the objects diagonally on the construction area. Do not use a skirt or brim, because it requires too much additional space. - WARNING: An improperly mounted UM2 printhead fans frame may collide with the retaining clips of the build platform. Check precisely the correct position of the fan frame, before the start of printing very large objects. - PLEASE print all items with identical settings. - WARNING: Avoid PLA printing with insufficient infill (less than 33%) in combination with temperatures below 205 degrees. Objects with fine static structures can be very unstable due to poor Layer-Adhesion. Incorrect retraction settings, such as for example too long or too fast retractions can cause big problems in an object with small static elements. - PLEASE use a special printing surface, so your objects get almost smooth and mate base areas, also lower platform temperatures are possible. - PLEASE use the glas printing surface, so your objects get almost glossy base areas. - DIRECT PRINTING ON GLASS: High risk of material Warping and complete detachment from the glass surface, especially for very large objects and insufficient build platform temperatures less than 60 degrees. An excessive build platform temperature higher than 70 degrees, can cause object deformations and dimensional inaccuracies mainly in areas near the glass surface. - If anything does not fit immediately properly then please no assembly by brute force. Sometimes suffice minor corrections with a nail file or more specific tools. Also a re-print of perhaps five to ten degrees lower or higher temperature can help.

Comments

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mnis
mnis
almost 10 years
<p>Hi, and thank you for your request:-)</p><p>It is not the standard export format of all 3D software. STL may perhaps be the most common, but STL is guaranteed not the best available export format. STL files require, for example, six times more storage space than a DAE file with an identical design content. This is extremely fat and very impractical in many ways.</p><p> I currently use DropBox and have only a very small contingent of up to 6 gigabytes available. So I can access from almost anywhere on important files and keep them always in sync. I therefore must always think about what I want to have available in the cloud, and what I can not have it in the cloud.</p><p> Nevertheless, I want to keep my designs simple available to everyone. That's why yesterday I decided to perform a conversion to STL.</p><p>Please be patient, I am working immediately to an improvement for all who are interested in my designs.</p><p>Markus</p>
science potato
science potato
almost 10 years
<p>why are there no STL files of these? 123d design and autocad cant open the files</p>
mnis
mnis
almost 10 years
Today I added a set engine covers, which is suitable for passive cooling of motors. Each cover two large openings, which allow a good convection. For users who do not want to install optional FANs.
mnis
mnis
about 10 years
Hey leadboss...and I believed you like my covers :-) OK, these are LED strips for 12 volts DC, available mostly on eBay and Amazon in various lengths and colors. The LED strips can be cut at predefined marked sections easily. A more accurate name for the strips, I do not know exist. I run the LED strips with a PWM PC fan controller (Aerocool X-Vision) for a maximum of five fans. Each one LED strip is coupled with a 12V fan (=&gt;5000 up to max. 8000RPM). The maximum brightness of the LED strip is determined by the preset maximum fan speed. In other words, the LED strips are in the range of ~6 to ~12V Dimmable. I like it that way. Do it well :-)
leadboss
leadboss
about 10 years
I like the LEDs in the covers where did you get them and how did you power them? Did you change the front LEDs from white to green also?
mnis
mnis
about 10 years
Small update today: Now there are two matching collars for a better fit at the bottom of the engine covers. The collars should be tight enough alone, but for safety a few drops of glue can be used.
mnis
mnis
about 10 years
Today a small update: - The total height of both cover was increased by 1mm. - Added pictures of already mounted covers. - The material shown is INNOFILL ICE BLUE (extremely Translucent). - Fans and green LED strips were integrated. Bye for now:-)
mnis
mnis
about 10 years
<p>It is, of course, depending on the (desired) optional components. But the Ultimaker 2 power supply has actually enough reserves. 10 to 25 watts stolen, does not necessarily require a stronger power supply. My original power supply, while 24/7 operation, on the outer shell of 30 to 35 degrees is warm, no trace of overload. It now has been running for many months and reliable unchanged.</p><p>Have fun while tinkering and head-wearing down :-)</p>
TinkerGnome
TinkerGnome
about 10 years
OMG - you can see how the wind blows... ;-) Additional external power supplies are quite out of the question, but i really like your concept of more LED and USB etc.... So - first step is: lets tinker a much bigger power pack to steal the energy from... ;-) See you, then!
mnis
mnis
about 10 years
Hello and thank you for your interest :-) Without basic knowledge of electronics, use better not Optional Fans. With some basic knowledge of electronics, there is much more equal opportunities for implementation >>> Simple minimal solution: One piece small external power supply with ideally 12 Volt / 1A, Two pieces of 12 Volt fans 40x40x20mm with 3000 to 6000rpm. ,Two pieces small 12V fan controller with temperature sensor. Somewhat more complicated: Absence of an external power supply... A small voltage converter steals the energy required for the fans, etc. directly from the UM2 system board :-) Even more complicated and even more complex: - Build a massive "UM2-substructure" with, for example, aluminum profiles. - Construct and use custom facings for the "UM2 substructure". - Use a stylish and fully automated computer fan controller for maybe 3 to 5 fans. - And again: Steal energy from the UM2 System :-) - Integrate interesting optional electronic components and use additional LED lighting. - Integrate USB power standards and use an infinite number of USB gadgets like cameras, chargers, etc. :-) :-) :-) - And if you are interested, I'm happy to help, as far as I can :-) - Or better, ask a friend or a colleague to get perhaps accompanying support. - Have joy of it :-)
TinkerGnome
TinkerGnome
about 10 years
mmhhh - i like the idea of additional cooling fans. But i wonder how to achieve the power supply for it... Do you have any suggestions?

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