Creality Ender 5 (and Pro) Extruder Re-mount (UPDATED 1/23)

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Creality Ender 5 (and Pro) Extruder Re-mount (UPDATED 1/23)

Published at 2024-05-06

By jddj

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jddj

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Joined almost 7 years ago

Description

Migrated to: https://www.printables.com/model/541809-creality-ender-5-and-pro-extruder-re-mount-updated UPDATED: I've re-created this in Fusion 360, and adjusted holes, modeled in screw-threads. Should be more robust, less prone to cracking or slipping. --- I made this mount so I could shorten my bowden tube, which in turn lets me reduce the retraction during prints to 5-6mm with PETG, helping to reduce stringing You'll need a stepper motor extension cable, and a PTFE bowden tube kit with M6 and M10 connectors (same size as the Ender 5 I have here uses). I recommend you look for a kit that has a tube cutter, so you can get a really straight end on your tube (though you can install this mod without removing your bowden tube from the hot-end; if you take this approach, trim excess at the extruder end). You'll also need a couple screws and matching V-slot T-nuts to secure the mount to the printer. I _think_ I used M5x8mm button-head socket screws. You _will not_ have to tap any metal. I used the PTFE tubing from the bowden kit to act as a filament guide tube from the mounted filament guide to the connector at the back of the extruder. I used my new flexibility to mount the filament spool holder on the left side of the machine sort-of-flush with the left side (not really intruding into the cube frame, you understand), which better suited my space and accessibility needs. One could probably make a case for mounting it in back and flush, too. It can be a little finicky to add tightly curled filament (from the last stuff on a spool) and get it into the extruder properly. I usually work it up to the extruder inlet (there's enough finger space to fiddle with it a little) and let the extruder motor take it in (hotend will have to be >170C for this to be allowed by the control panel) then once it's properly in the bowden tube, I release the tension and push it up to the hotend from the spool side.

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jddj
jddj
about 4 years
I screwed directly into the plastic (PETG, 90% infill). This works ok here, has worked ok for most designs I've done. If you're designing a new one, maybe sink (or side-slot) some nuts in there, sure. The plastic threading hasn't caused any issues in this case. It's just that I noticed the threads weren't the strongest when I tried to snug the screws up after using it for a while.
markwatney
markwatney
about 4 years
What did you screw the extruder bracket bolts into? Is there a nut sunk underneath?
jddj
jddj
about 4 years
You're welcome. Mine's been working great since I printed the final (pictured, above). Two changes I'd make: 1. Shrink the extruder plate mounting holes just a teense - they could grab the screws a little more firmly. 2. Provide sure support beneath the stepper motor. Probably a bunch of trial-and-error there, but right now, the motor floats just a little. Good luck with your design!
markwatney
markwatney
about 4 years
thanks for sharing this, the other popular relocator design online looks ridiculous and is set up at a really awkward position. I was wondering why they designed it that way (mostly to avoid buying an extender cable I believe). I'm designing my own, and this just proved that my concept is feasible

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