If you are looking for some extra height and clearance for your Mr. Crawley axles and chassis this Portal Axles will rise them around 13mm. This is the maximum I could reach while having reliable gears and being able to fit the hub inside a typical 52mm rim.

As you can see in the photos, inside of each hub there are 2 gears with a small 12/13 reduction. The "gear1" will fit around your CVDs, ideally HSP 102015 CVDs or compatible (adjustable length ones). You can probably use HSP 122015 too, if some adaptor is needed finally you can ask me to make it.

Remember this publication only includes the parts you will need to replace the standard ones in your Mr Crawley Basic Chassis, so the axles themselves are not included in the publication.

The only "complicated" thing to build this Portal Axles is that you will need 2x9mm round pins to fix each "Gear1" to the CVDs. I simply shortened 1mm my standard 2x10 pins I use for Wheel Hex normally. If you are worried about the pin getting out from the gear, use a Cyano glue drop to fix it in place, but ensure you don't let too much glue between the teeth to have the best meshing between gear1 and gear2.

The M5 grub screws can be also a little "picky", so if you want, maybe you can screw and cut M5 normal screws into the back of "Gear2" parts. You will need like 5mm inside the gear and other 4mm outside the gear to sit into the 5x10x4 lower bearing.

A set of different "heights" wheel Hex parts is included, from 5mm to 10mm, so you can better control your total axle width and clearance with steering hub.

For the steering axle, there are two different Steering Hubs with different arms... One of them will allow correct Ackermann geometry but will need probably higher Hex to not touch the rim, while the other has "neutral" Ackermann geometry and would allow to use shorter Hex having a shorter total axle width.

All these parts have been dimensioned a little strictly, so if you break some of them frequently, don't hesitate to tell me to see if I can improve or reinforce it in some way. They are not designed for jumps or big hits... The good thing is you can always re-print the broken part in a few minutes :)

If you consider some caster would be a great improvement for the front axle let me know how much degrees you would like and maybe I can fast mod the hub carriers to achieve that caster.

SH means Socket Head Screw
BH means Button Head Screw
CS means Counter-Sunk Screw
GS means grub screw