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Most if not all of these parts are strictly dimensioned, so It would be better if you print them solid. For that, I'm using 0.4mm line widths and 0.2mm layer heights with hundreds of top/bottoms, so it gets solid.
Most if not all of these parts are strictly dimensioned, so It would be better if you print them solid. For that, I'm using 0.4mm line widths and 0.2mm layer heights with hundreds of top/bottoms, so it gets solid.
Specially for the gears, you will need a very high inter-layer adhesion, so probably warm up 5 or 10ºC your PLA for the best adhesion and adapt the inner walls width to perfectly fill all the inside of the part.
These gears need to fit into 10x15x4 bearings, so check you are printing them the right size, if you don't, maybe play a little with horizontal expansion to correct the deviation.
About the perimeter starts (seams) I would recommend making them near the center of the gears. For the rest of the parts I use Shortest->SmartHide for the seam.
Let me recommend you the last CURA software, version 5 now. The variable line width, specially applied to the inner walls can better fill the space than in previous versions, it really surprised me, avoiding a lot of retractions just widening the inner walls in some points, really smart!
You can see in one of the photos all the parts together over the bed. I completely NOT recommend printing various parts at a time, as you can have worse results and more fail possibilities. Specially for the gears, print them one by one and put the seam point near the center, so no start points occur over the tip of teeth.
Remember, if you choose the medium length axles, you will have to apply symmetry to one of the axle body parts to have them with the diffs aligned to the same side.
Supports
- C-Hubs or rear hubs need a little support for the first horizontal surface. Remember to block the supports over that point, as the overhangs should be perfectly managed by your machine.
- Front Steering Hubs will need some support for the center surface, but not for the arm or other parts.
- Gear2 will need support for the first 0.6mm, so just two 0.2mm layers of supports and one layer of "air"
- C-Hubs or rear hubs need a little support for the first horizontal surface. Remember to block the supports over that point, as the overhangs should be perfectly managed by your machine.
- Front Steering Hubs will need some support for the center surface, but not for the arm or other parts.
- Gear2 will need support for the first 0.6mm, so just two 0.2mm layers of supports and one layer of "air"
Accuracy, quite important
To have the less play possible but also a good fit between parts you will need to print some parts very good, specially the gears and Hubs. Things can fit very easy into under-extruded parts, but they will be weak, as the perimeters won't be as good fusion as they could. If you over-extrude, parts will fit too much hard and probably you won't fit some bearings in their places. I had to use 215ºC and 110% flow with my last filament to reach that point of very strong and solid but accurate parts. The same way, don't use high speeds and accels for outer walls to achieve a more accurate result.
To have the less play possible but also a good fit between parts you will need to print some parts very good, specially the gears and Hubs. Things can fit very easy into under-extruded parts, but they will be weak, as the perimeters won't be as good fusion as they could. If you over-extrude, parts will fit too much hard and probably you won't fit some bearings in their places. I had to use 215ºC and 110% flow with my last filament to reach that point of very strong and solid but accurate parts. The same way, don't use high speeds and accels for outer walls to achieve a more accurate result.
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