printed with ASA Printed at 40mm/s, ASA filament, 256C, 100C bed, enclosure, 0.2 layer height at 30% infill. micro-swiss all metal hot end with retraction tuned down to 2.5 mm at 25mm/s speed. I'd recommend printing the inner and outer rods upright without supports (print the outer rod upside down but upright) I used thin ASA slurry for bed adhesion with great results. The zigzag ratchet piece, trigger, rubber band rods, and mini torch stand lower rod part can all be printed laying flat without support. Id print the bench roller head piece upright, it doesn't need supports to print right, but it doesn't hurt for that one. Id only really print supports on the mini torch stand head and I positioned it in its designed orientation, but it might print better pointing upwards. My ASA supports are usually really hard to remove cleanly, but I think thats somewhat desired to keep things from warping, so I try to avoid it as much as possible. Additional parts list for bench rollers (1) 6" long 1/4" hex bolt (2) 5/16" bolts (65mm+) (2) 5/16" nuts (6-8) 5/16" washers (4) 5/16" alum. bushings (2) skate wheels (1) repurposed base material, lamp bases work really well and should bolt right on for mini-torch stand (1) 6" 1/4" hex bolt (1) 1/4" washer (1) 1/4" threaded insert (I drilled a hole into my bench and installed the insert so the whole torch stand could just screw into the bench directly) The bench roller spacing is designed for skateboard wheels, with two bushings and two 1.5mm washers internally on each axle bolt. You may need to either remove or add more washers depending on the gap between the two bearings on your skate wheel. the bolts i used for the wheels are standard 5/16th diameter for skate bearings, 65mm total in length and was just enough with all the washers and stuff. The main inner rod of the bench roller is designed to bolt to a stand. the hole diameter is designed around a 1/4" hex bolt, 6" long, and the hex head should sink snuggly into the inner rod counter bore. I repurposed a base weight out of a lamp I got at a thrift store for the base on mine. you may or may not need a longer bolt depending on your base. 6" floated my boat just fine. The bench roller prints in separate pieces for support and layer purposes, the zigzag ratchet piece needs to be glued into the inner rod slot (double check your orientation first), and the benchroller head that houses the wheels needs to be glued to the top outer rod. I printed with ASA so I glued it all together with thick ASA/acetone slurry and let it cure for a few days. double up your files of the rubber band pins as you need two. mine friction fit so i didn't bother gluing them in, but yea they can be glued in as well. it works really well with those rubber bands from dental braces, larger bands are going to need longer pins or they might slip off. ill update with longer ones here shortly. for the axle that the trigger pin rotates on, I used a 1.5mm thick nail used for hanging pictures, heated it with a lighter to help bore the plastic holes out a bit so it rotated smoothly, then pushed it through everything to secure the trigger, and snipped the excess steel off for a simple trigger axle.