MATERIALS: - YOUR CHOICE! - I USED PLA NOTICE: - THE MOUNT IS FRAGILE WITHOUT THE SCREWS - BUT IT IS VERY STABLE WITHIN THE SCREWS - THINNEST PART: 0,9MM NEEDED: - PVA SUPPORT ABILITY SAVE PVA WITH THE PLA BAG "DATAS": - TOP PLA BAG > "TOPPLABAG" - TOP PLA BAG UPSIDE DOWN > "TOPPLABAGUSD" - MID PLA BAG > "MIDPLABAG" - MID PLA BAG UPSIDE DOWN > "MIDPLABAGUSD" - BOTTOM WITH CABLE LEADER > "CABLEPLABAG" - DONT FORGET TO LOAD THE PVA FIX FOR THE MID PART FIRST - THIS WILL TAKE THE MOST TIME - BUT IT IS SAVING A LOT OF PVA - SAVE PVA WHILE PRINTING THE "HALF"-VERSION (ON ITS WAY) HIGHLY RECOMMENDED: - ACTIVATE THE SUPPORT ROOF - ROOF AND ROOFINTERFACE: 0,8MM SCREWS FOR THE TOP PART AND THE MID PART: - COUNTERSUNK HEAD SCREWS: - DIAMETER SCREW HEAD: 8MM - DIAMETER SCREW THREAD: 4MM - LENGTH (WITHIN THE SCREW HEAD): 40-45MM OPTIONS: - MID0 AND BOTTOM0 = ZERO SNAPS - MID1 AND BOTTOM1 = TWO SNAPS - MID2 AND BOTTOM2 = FOUR SNAPS - MID3 AND BOTTOM3 = SIX SNAPS YOU NEED TO FIX THE PVA SUPPORT: - FOR SOME REASON CURA IS TAKING THE PRINT ITSELF THE RIGHT WAY - BUT IT DOES NOT SUPPORT THE SNAP AREA OF THE MID PARTS. LOAD THE FIX AND MAKE SURE THE PVA CORE WILL BE USED: - MID1 AND MID1PVAFIX - MID2 AND MID2PVAFIX - MID3 AND MID3PVAFIX REDOMMENDED: - IF YOU WANT TO MOUNT THE HUB VERTICAL - PRINTING THE MID AND THE BOTTOM WITH 2 SNAPS IS ENOUGH - IF YOU WANT TO MOUNT THE HUB HORIZONTAL - PRINT THE MID AND BOTTOM WITH 6 SNAPS - IF YOU MOVE A LOT BETWEEN PLACES WITH THE HUB - PRINT THE MID FOR ZERO SNAPS AND PRINT - ONE BOTTOM WITH ZERO SNAPS FOR YOUR HOME - ONE BOTTOM WITH ZERO SNAPS FOR YOUR WORK AND SO ON - YOU AVOID THE VIBRATION FROM THE SNAPS - SO THE LIVE TIME OF YOUR HUB WON´T BE REDUCED WASHERS: - HIGHT: 1-1,5MM - OUTSIDE DIAMETER: 18,5MM, MINIMUM: 15MM PRINT ORDER: - MID PART - PVA DECOMPOSITION WILL TAKE THE MOST TIME - DEBURR THE EDGES INSIDE FOR THE BOTTOM PART IF YOU WANT - NOT NEEDED BUT IT SLIDES EASIER - TOP - THERE IS NO NEED TO SAND OR DEBURR AS LONG AS THE PRINT IS GOOD - BOTTOM - DEBURR THE EDGES FOR THE MID PART IF YOU WANT - NOT NEEDED BUT IT SLIDES EASIER INSTALLATION: - VERTICAL MOUNT - DECIDE IF YOU WANT TO LEAD THE POWER CABLE AND THE USB3-B-PLUG CABLE - UPWARDS OR DOWNWARDS - THE CUT OUT FOR THE BOTTOM WILL ALWAYS LOOK DOWN AT THE END - HORIZONTAL MOUNT - DECIDE IF YOU WANT TO LEAD THE POWER CABLE AND THE USB3-B-PLUG CABLE - TO RIGHT SIDE OR TO THE LEFT SIDE - MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT SEE THE CUT OUT FOR THE BOTTOM FROM YOUR PERSPECTIVE - PUT THE ANKER HUB INTO THE TOP PART - PUT THE TOP PART AND MID PART TOGETHER AS YOU PREFER RECOMMENDED: - IF YOU WANT TO MOUNT THE CABLE LEADER VERSION ON A WALL - TAKE A DRILL WITH 8MM - YOU WILL NEED THAT BOARD TO DRILL THE HOLES FOR THE WALL - AND FOR SCREWING IT TOGETHER - THE HOLES NEEDS TO EXACTLY AT THERE PLACES -IF YOU WANT TO MOUNT ANY VERSION ON A BOARD (WOOD) - TAKE A DRILL WITH 8, 10 OR 12MM - DOES NOT HAVE TO BE EXACTLY, YOU NEED THE BOARD ONLY THIS ONE TIME - PREPARE A BOARD WITH 6 HOLES FOR THE SCREWS - USE THE DRILL HELPER FILE (ON ITS WAY) - CHECK THE PHOTOS - CLAMP THE ANKER HUB MOUNT CARFULLY BETWEEN THE DRILLED BOARD AND ANOTHER BOARD - JUST THAT HARD TO MAKE SURE THE IS NO GAP BETWEEN TOP AND MID PART - AND MAKE SURE THE ANKER HUB MOUNT CAN NOT SLIP AWAY, WHILE DOING THE NEXT STEP SCREW IT CAREFULLY TOGETHER: - THE ORIGINAL DIAMETER OF THE HOLE FOR THE SCREW OF THE MID PART IS 4MM - THE ORIGINAL DIAMETER OF THE HOLE FOR THE SCREW OF THE TOP PART IS 3,85MM - THE DIAMETER AFTER PRINTING IS SMALER, SO YOU HAVE TO - MOVE THE SCREW FORTH AND BACK - A BIT MORE FORTH AND BACK - A BIT MORE FORTH AND BACK - AND SO ON AND ON AND ON - TILL YOU CUT A THREAD THROUGH BOTH HOLES - DO NOT DO THAT TOO FAST - THE FRICTION WILL PRODUCE HEAT - TOO MUCH HEAT WILL MAY YOU DESTROY THE THREAD - YOU CAN DO THAT WITHOUT THIS RECOMMENDATIONS - THIS IS JUST THE BEST WAY - PATIENT BOTTOM: WALL/BOTTOM: - MINIMUM 1.6MM - MY EXPERIENCE IS PVA SUPPORTED PARTS NEEDS ALWAYS 2,4 MINIMUM - VERSION 1 "BOTTOM0" "BOTTOM1" "BOTTOM2" "BOTTOM3" MAXIMUM HIGHT COUNTERSUNK SCREW HEAD AND WASHER TOGETHER: 4MM - VERSION 2 HAS ANOTHER LEVEL TO LEAD CABLES TROUGH "BOTTOM0CABLE25" > SCREWHOLE DIAMETER: 5MM - 2,5MM RADIUS "BOTTOM1CABLE25" > SCREWHOLE DIAMETER: 5MM - 2,5MM RADIUS "BOTTOM2CABLE25" > SCREWHOLE DIAMETER: 5MM - 2,5MM RADIUS "BOTTOM3CABLE25" > SCREWHOLE DIAMETER: 5MM - 2,5MM RADIUS "BOTTOM0CABLE30" > SCREWHOLE DIAMETER: 6MM - 3,0MM RADIUS "BOTTOM1CABLE30" > SCREWHOLE DIAMETER: 6MM - 3,0MM RADIUS "BOTTOM2CABLE30" > SCREWHOLE DIAMETER: 6MM - 3,0MM RADIUS "BOTTOM3CABLE30" > SCREWHOLE DIAMETER: 6MM - 3,0MM RADIUS DRILLING RECOMMENDATIONS: - WOOD: ALWAYS 2-3MM LESS THAN THE BOARD ALLOWS. IT´S STABLE WITH 17-18MM - SCREW NUMBER: 3 - SCREWS: EVERY DIY MARKET - WALL: 52MM DRILL HOLE, GOOD SCREW ANCHORS WITH 8MM OUTSIDE DIAMETER, 50MM - SCREW NUMBER: 4-6 - NOTICE: YOU MAY NEED A SPECIALIST SHOP TO BUY THE RIGHT SCREWS TO MOUNT THE CABLE LEADER VERSION. YOU NEED THIS COUNTERSUNK HEADSCREWS: - 5,5-6MM SCREW THREAT DIAMETER - 8MM SCREWHEAD DIAMETER, 4MM HIGHT - LENGTH WITHIN SCREWHEAD: 70-75MM - MAY YOU HAVE TO REDUCE THE SCREW HEAD DIAMETER BY YOURSELF - DEPENDING TO THE QUALITY OF YOUR WALL - IT COULD BE VERY DIFFICULT TO MOUNT SOMETHING ON IT - THE NORMAL BOTTOM GIVES YOU ENOUGH FREEDOM TO MOUNT THE HUB PERFECT - EVEN IF THE DRILL HOLES ARE NOT EXACTLY AT THERE PLACES - MOUNTING THE CABLE LEADER VERSION ON A WALL - NEEDS PATIENT, KNOW HOW - AND MOST OF THE TIME YOU WILL NEED A VERY GOOD DRILLING MACHINE - I BASICALLY RECOMMEND TO MOUNT THE HUB ON A BOARD - AND THE BOARD ON THE WALL NOTICE: - YOU CAN USE THE AIR LEVEL OF THE MID-PART TO LEAD CABLES THROUGH TOO - BUT IT IS NOT THOUGHT THAT WAY - SOME CABLES OR ADAPTERS WILL MAY PRODUCE HEAT - LIKE THUNDERBOLT ADAPTERS AS AN EXAMPLE - I RECOMMEND TO PRINT THE CABLE LEADER - THAT WAY YOU ARE ALWAYS ON THE SAVE SIDE - GOOD LUCK WITH THE PRINT PRECIOUS LIFE FORMS