This is a solid version of the 3DVerkstan face shield that fills in the tray. With that I was able to add a .2mm gap to allow for stacking. I've successfully printed these in stacks of 2, 5, 10, 20. The original is here https://3dverkstan.se/protective-visor/protective-visor-versions/ by Erik Cederberg
Keep in mind this will always be slower than printing 1-2 at a time on a bed. Stacking requires smaller layers, ironing and other settings that WILL slow this down. The advantage is this can run while you sleep/overnight/with little extra labor.
How to set this up in cura? Check out the video -> https://youtu.be/G-0B3wtdCv0
Technical
I use the following settings for printing these with PLA. Your temperatures will vary based on brand or using PETG or others. I use a heated bed on my Taz6. If you do not have a heated bed you may have to use a brim of 5 lines and other means to adhere it to your print surface.
IMPORTANT - Please use look at the Cura settings attached and adjust as needed speedwise. You need to keep it at .2mm - .25mm layers for it to come out looking well. ALSO, you should use the modifier file for best results! Set it for a per model setting for "Overlaps" and turn off infill and select 'Ironing'. This will make sure the bottom of each visor in the stack gets an extra ironing (it helps fill gaps). Lastly, if you don't import settings here are my key ones below.
Layer Height - .2
Wall thickness - 2mm
Wall Line Count - 4
Infill - 40%
Supports - NO
Build Plate Adhesion - Skirt
Top/Bottom Thickness - 1mm (4 layers)
Top/Bottom Pattern - CONCENTRIC (Critical for success)
Hi, can someone share a Europe stacked file for 0.8 nozzle converted with CURA for the ultimates please?
carlosgs
almost 5 years
Great to see it is also working for you! Here are some more designs: https://github.com/CarlosGS/facemask-print-vertical/tree/master/stl
And the OpenScad script: https://github.com/CarlosGS/facemask-print-vertical/tree/master/source_code/generic_stacker
With PrusaSlicer the separation needed to be a bit larger, in the end I was using 0.35mm. Hopefully some slicing software will integrate stacking at some point so we can calibrate the separation perfectly :)
vel0c1ty
almost 5 years
Use a hammer on the knife. It will split that with little issue. The only problem in general I am having is the rough texture on the bottom of the higher masks. I'm using an iron to smooth those out currently and then a soldering iron to fill any holes.
Beaker
almost 5 years
Yeah, it's nearly impossible to crack these apart without breaking units. I was using the NA 30 stack...it'd be helpful for a larger space between units like @Runortyx said. Since I'm trying to keep this sanitary, trying to split them with a knife while wearing latex gloves is just waiting for an Urgent Care visit :)
vel0c1ty
almost 5 years
I break them with a sharp knife and a hammer hit. If it would be helpful I can post a video of that. Also, I guess the model I had was incorrect. I've uploaded a new version
Runortyx
almost 5 years
I Printed the European version
Looks very good, quality is insane,
But they are 2 Problems,
1. Its hard to separate the things, maybe a few more spacer or bigger spacer especially i the bigger area in the middle will be good....
2. the punchhole in the middle does not fit prober for iso 838, the punchholes are 79,5-80,5mm, yours are 70mm, the left and right punchhole to the first in the middle is good but the middle one not.
vel0c1ty
almost 5 years
I added a Europe model that is a 2stack design. It's a WIP as my printer is doing a run of 15 atm. If you can test this and let me know if it prints ok I can make taller stacks
Ralf Zeiske
almost 5 years
Hi, nice idea to stack those part.
As a newbie I'm unable to do that. Would you mind to provide a European version as well?
Would be much appreciated...
Thanks, Ralf