Latest version here: http://www.simply3d.co.nz/kwikjet
*semi final update:*
Version 3 is now out still untested - there for those who are keen: The only changes are a new hull shape. All version 2 and 3 parts are compatible. I'm working on a new version yet again. Next version will be 600mm long with 35mm pump.
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/version-3-3d-printed-jetsprint-jet-boat
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LjcFiSG5YQ4
running on 12volts (3S)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjYarSz_9GE
Running on 24v (6S)
https://youtu.be/yRmGHExMy40?t=15s
Too fast! I look forward to trying it out on a smooth lake one day.
Forum thread: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3061106
Version 1: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/prototype-jetsprint-jet-boat
Version 2: (you are here)
Version 3: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/version-3-3d-printed-jetsprint-jet-boat
Specs:
- Impeller: 29mm diameter, 29mm pitch
- Exit nozzle diameter: 22mm
- Hull length: 460mm
- Hull width: ~185mm
- 9g servo for steering (can use larger servos when adapter plate used)
- Weight of printed parts: 550g (PLA), 460g (ABS)
Power system:
As you can see in the video, the power system I used was completely over powered. The boat does appear to handle better when it is lighter and a smaller motor would help reduce the weight. Parts used are as follows:
- 3674 brushless inrunner motor @1900KV. 61A max. Max power 1800w.
- 2x 2200mAh batteries, 25C.
- 120A watercooled ESC
Improvements in this version:
- Deeper v - skips over the waves less
- 30mm longer and 20mm wider
- Better sealing lid with only 2 screws for easy/quick opening.
Ideas to improve for the (maybe) next version:
- Add printed ducts inside of the hull. Then have it use the venturi effect to suck any water out of the bottom of the boat this way the boat would pump out any water that got in when the pump is running
- Thats about it. I'm pretty happy with it as it is. Suggestions for improvements are welcome :-)
UPDATE: I've now added a bash plate to the nozzle. The new file is called "nozzle & bashplate.stl" and can be found in the download.
Technical
Can be printed in ABS PLA or PETG. ABS is my preference. If you are using PLA try to keep the fan off for the hull parts or else the sharp hull corners tend to lift a little.
Use 0.15mm layer height for the impeller. Print with supports enabled. For all other parts I used 0.25mm layer height with a 0.4mm nozzle on my Original Prusa i3 MK2.
The nozzle takes a 3mm inner, 4mmor 5mm outer diameter teflon tube as a bushing for the shaft (check the last two pictures above). I cut 5mm off some spare bowden tube and used this. Teflon is a very durable and low friction material - perfect for use here.
Bill of Materials:
- - Weight of printed parts: 550g (PLA), 460g (ABS) you'll need a bit more than that because of required support material
- M3 misc screws
- 6x self tapping screws 10mm long or so
- 1x 105mm long, 3mm stainless steel rod as driveshaft. To mount the impeller securely I ground a flat on the shaft, sanded the rest of the area that was doing to contact the impeller and super glued it in place.
- 1x 623RS bearing (623ZZ is also fine but rubber seal is of course better when water is involved)
- 1x 750mm of servo pushrod wire (most of it is used as a water intake screen)
- 1x flexible coupler to go from motor to the driveshaft. I used 3 to 5mm universal joint adapter. Most 36mm diameter motors use 5mm shafts. I would recommend a universal joint which can be found for $1-2 on aliexpress. You could print your own universal joint or direct coupler (both are printable and included in files).
Electronics:
- 1x 9g servos
- 1x Motor + ESC
I'll be using this motor: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-xk3674-1900kv-brushless-inrunner.html
And this ESC: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbyking-120a-boat-esc-4a-ubec.html
My reference told me to pick a motor/battery combo that delivers up to 20,000 rpm and can handle about ~75A continuous. Refer to: https://www.kehrer-modellbau.de/en/kmb-jet28/jet-drives/kmb-jet28-rev.-3-with-short-steering-nozzle
Included in the files are mounting brackets for 36mm and 28mm diameter inrunner motors as well as a mount for common airplane motors using 19mm hole spacing.
- 2x lipo batteries. You'll want two: one to place in either side of the motor for balance. I will use 2x 2200mAh 3S lipo batteries. I like to use velcro to hold batteries in place. I feel its a bit on the heavy side so lighter batteries wouldn't hurt
- 1x transmitter/receiver set. I will be using my Flysky i6 setup.
If you have any questions, please do ask!
Hi Jotham, First I would Like to Thank You for This Design.. Iam having problems trying to Print the 3 hill Sections , I normally use Cura Engine to Slice, have tried slicr3, With no luck.. I seem to be chasing boggers / hashmarks all around the Hull Sections.. I have already wasted a complete roll of PLA on this.. Any Help is greatly appreciated.. Am using a Tron xy , with a .4mm nozzle and tried printing at .2 and .1 layer heights,.Please Help, Thank You , bman.
abitencrypted
about 4 years
Hi Jacob,
I bought the drive shaft here -
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303-Stainless-Steel-Round-Bar-Rod-Shaft-Milling-1mm-3-4-5-6-8-10-12-16-20-25-A1/111700745974?<https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303-Stainless-Steel-Round-Bar-Rod-Shaft-Milling-1mm-3-4-5-6-8-10-12-16-20-25-A1/111700745974?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649>
ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649<https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303-Stainless-Steel-Round-Bar-Rod-Shaft-Milling-1mm-3-4-5-6-8-10-12-16-20-25-A1/111700745974?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649>
[https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/qZYAAOSw-vlVhrf9/s-l400.jpg]<https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303-Stainless-Steel-Round-Bar-Rod-Shaft-Milling-1mm-3-4-5-6-8-10-12-16-20-25-A1/111700745974?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649>
303 Stainless Steel Round Bar Rod Shaft Milling 1mm 3 4 5 6 8 10 12 16 20 25 A1 - eBay<https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303-Stainless-Steel-Round-Bar-Rod-Shaft-Milling-1mm-3-4-5-6-8-10-12-16-20-25-A1/111700745974?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649>
303 STAINLESS STEEL milling Round Bar rod shaft 1mm 3mm 4mm 5mm 6mm 10mm 12mm a2. £1.99 + £12.00 P&P
Jacob Fonseca
about 4 years
Could you please send a link to where you brought the driveshaft from?
Muppet400
over 4 years
A way to stop it porposing if you could adjust the jet nozzle down a bit to force the nose down. a bit of trial and error to get it right have it to much and it'll nose steer
Alexander Nystedt
over 4 years
is it a problem if the pla warps ?
Alexander Nystedt
over 4 years
what cooler thingy did u have on the motor
could u send a link for it maybe ?
Rockest55
about 5 years
Nice design. Already printed also. Do you have normal solid file format like step or iges of the whole boat while i would add some internal parts into the hull for some fixings? Also the collar of the hatch frame could be at least 2 mm higher. And the steering part upper axis point is way too weak, it breaks easily.
Gabriel Machado
over 5 years
Hi, i just finish printing the hull, it have bend a little, i glued that way, but i wanna know if u have made some base finish and paint? i'm thinking of using some fiber glass to make the finish in the outside of the hull, what do u think?
Jotham B
over 5 years
Sure, I can send you the one in the photos, I don't use it anymore since I
have a newer version I printed. Email me your details: jotham@simply3d.co.nz
and at cost of postage I'll send it to ya. :-)
squeakiwi
over 5 years
hi I'm from new zealand too, will you be able to print it for me? I don't have access to a printer thanks.
Jotham B
almost 6 years
I can't sorry. I'm in NZ it's a little bit far away!!
You can buy a ender 3 3D printer for like about 200euro so that might be a
good option for you.
RV lea
almost 6 years
hello , i'm a french boater and would like to know is it will be possible that you print it for me ? thank you
Jotham B
over 6 years
Ok. Strange, if I click it, it just goes into edit mode.
Could you PM me the part or publish it on youmagine and link it here?
abitencrypted
over 6 years
Hi Jotham,
No link to collaborate at my end. I'm thinking collaboration is something that you will have to action from your end and an invite will come to me.
Jotham B
over 6 years
Thanks howard, that'd be great. If you click the "collaborate on this design" near the top right of the page I think it will let you edit the page, or it might send a approval request to me. Then you can add the STL file.
abitencrypted
over 6 years
Hi Jotham,
I've had to modify the motor mount to take a Turnigy Aquastar water cooled 3660-1700KV. I have the modified STL to share but not sure how to post it here. Let me know if you want it. Maybe PM it to you.
Howard
Jotham B
over 6 years
I generally use about 20% infill and set it to use 3 perimeters. This results in almost all the hull being solid. I use super glue to join the parts. I did one in ABS and used acetone slurry which works very well. Cheers : )
abitencrypted
over 6 years
Great work.
I've been 3d printing for 9 months, the last 3 with a new Prusa i3 Mk3. I thought I would give your boat a try. Wish me luck:-)
I hope you don't mind if I ask a couple of questions relating to a PLA printed version -
1. What percentage in-fill did you use?
2. What adhesive would you recommend for bonding the hull parts?
Thanks
Howard