FEATURES

Take a look to the MyRCBike NSR500 V1 in its first ride... the "Flying wheels" were quite long, the shell of the bike and the rider were printed in TPU, and I was using a very good Brushless sensored Motor+ESC

ARE YOU READY?¿?

If driving four wheels can be complicated, more when it comes to 3d printed vehicles, maybe driving 3d printed 2 wheel bike can seem to be impossible. If you also consider the price of the parts to buy, apparently picky ones, and the supposed fragility of a 2 wheel vehicle, probably you will let this idea to pass away... and I don't blame you...)

But there I am, an "exclusivity" non-conformist, who discovered something as simple as the electronics involved in 1/5 RC bikes are the same as the ones from 1/10 RC cars... which I know, have available from previous MyRCCar projects and are easy to buy.

I could enjoy this hobby when I was a child thanks to my "lucky uncle" and the Kyosho NSR500 FA Series he gave me, plus all the time he dedicated to me, but I never really dominated the hobby... Some time ago I started thinking about upgrading this 90's RC bike with new Li-Po and Brushless but soon I realised that the 1/7-1/8 scale was not convenient for me to use my typical M3 screws and known RC electronics.

Let me also mention someone, one of my actual few "influencers" who "influence" me over and over with his good work... We are talking about Brett Turnage, the creator of the most amazing 3d printable RC projects available in the net; at least they are for me. But not only that... The level of his presentations is actually my goal to achieve and motivates me in many ways.

Finally, you must know that Rockser3D has helped me a lot with "rigging, skinning, and posing" the racer buddy, skills that are a little too much for my right now. The Pilot has no sex or face. It looks like my cousin Rockser3D wanted to emulate some kind of robot in the pelvic zone, but also a ghostly hole in the inside of the helmet that could allow us to print and personalise your own face or the one of your enemy... If he/she is so ugly, just put down the helmet's wind shield ;) And better not talking about holding system for the pilot... it could be even inappropriate for some ages… :S

SHOPPING LIST

How expensive is it?

In great numbers you can spend between 60 and 200 in 1/10 electronics, 50 in wheels and belt, 20 more for bearings, screws and other hardware and around 20 more in PLA and TPU filament. Already there?¿?

Electronics:
Once you know electronics (1/10 scale) are not specially complicated or expensive (you can get them locally or in aliexpress, etc.) there are some other parts pending as the front Fork. It looks (and probably it is) something very precise, necessary for the correct work of the bike. We can see the prices for these front forks from 50 to 150€... and without wheel!!!

Front Fork:
Front Fork is then one of the elements I made 3d printable. Anyway, I consider necessary using metallic shafts for each of the two front "shocking tubes", the same as a pair of 10x32mm more common springs which really makes the front shocking action. I created some "TPU seals" for the front fork shocks so you can try, and probably achieve to put some silicone/oil in those tubes.

Actually, the front shock shafts are two 5x85mm piano wire rods.

Bearings:
All moving parts of the bike are working with bearings. I wanted to use the most standard size for all of them, 5x10x4mm, being these bearings so cheap and easy to find. You will need 15 of these bearings for the bike, including the 4 you need for the "flying wheels".

Belt:
In this bike, the transmission from the motor to the rear wheel is made in two "reduction" steps. We can find the first one between the motor pinion and the geared crown in the right side of the motorbike. Actually this gears are Mod1, the pinion can have between 14T and 20T and the crown can have a max of 46T in Mod1 (48mm max diameter). This model includes a 14T pinion and a 46T crown which can do a great combination for a start point.

The second reduction is between the main axle (previous crown transmits its turn to this axle) and the rear wheel with a belt system. This, the belt, is other of the elements which we'll have to buy if we want a reliable bike, and being able to accelerate or break strongly. The gears for this belt system has been designed with XL standard and are then compatible with sourced XL belts, but also with TPU 3d printed ones. I discovered these belts are not so expensive and relatively easy to find, but mostly in 10mm wide.

This bike needs a 5mm wide belt and for that I designed and added to the files a "belt divider" to get out two 5mm belts from one 10mm belt. Hurraaah!!! Included gears for this belt system are 13T for the main axle and 30T for the wheel. To use them you will need a 142XL belt, with 71 teeth.

Maybe you don't believe it, but we will need just a few more special elements to build up this bike. You will need more 5mm "piano wire" to "metal-smithing" your main axle if you want a reliable solid transmission (You can initially print the main axle, then copy it "metal-smithing" your 5mm piano wire part and replace it). Also, this main axle is the one on which it tilts the rear fork. If you get 5mm piano wire, you can also cut from there the front and rear wheel axles, but be sure that it passes inside the bearings, because mine did not and I had to "rectify" the diameter sanding it until it fitted...

Rear Shock:
Finally two more elements we need to buy... one cheap and other expensive... You will need one 1/10 scale On-road RC car shock with 58 or 60mm from hole to hole for the rear shock of the bike. You can find them for around 2 bucks in aliexpress and maybe a little more expensive in your local store. But now... the expensive element... not talking about the electronics...

Wheels:
I think is especially important the material composition of the tires is as similar as possible to real ones, or better said, with the most "grip" possible. So, instead of trying to imitate the shape of the tires and print them in TPU to see what happens, I decided to start directly with real good sourced wheels to have a good start point.
I'm using GRX12-M3 and GRX22-M3 wheels from GRPtyres for front and rear wheels respectively. I chose these wheels and its format because is the only one I can find actually available from anywhere in the world and they seemed to respect some kind of standards for 1/5 wheels, or at least they had enough information of the product so I could see if they could do the work before buying.

Screws and more:
Finally to complete the shopping list we need a bunch of M3 screws, some M5 ones, a few M4 grub screws... a velcro strap, some good cyano glue and a pen spring (3mm inner diameter and around 20mm length) we will use for our "servo-saver/etc" system... And that's all!!! There is no more trick :)

 Complete list of hardware needed

HARDWARE

ELECTRONICS

EXTRA PARTS

The extra parts are not included in this publication and they are not needed to make the bike work. But... I will send or give you access to them when you upload some good pictures of your bike printed.

Those parts are the next ones:

MyRCBike Wheels:
- Front and rear rims and tires, similar to the NSR ones
- Fully 3D printable without supports. To be printed in PLA and TPU AS AN EXPERIMENT or to have the bike in the shelf
- You can print the tires in two halfs and glue them (without bottom layers) as I did or use the complete tire to make a mould for some "silicon"?¿? If you have experience in this, let me know please.

GRP Rim Covers:
- If you want to use proffesional GRP wheels but cover the rims instead of painting them you can use these rim covers
- You can print them in PLA and glue them just in some few points to avoid it disassembling during use
- They don't need supports to be printed

Lift Stand:
- Simple thing but useful to hold your bike and also to test it a little
- You will need around 10mm longer rear wheel axle to use it

"MyRCCar Team" decals:
- All the "decals", understood as thin 3d objects ready to print in different colours
- Remember to "Z scale" each decal to your desired thickness, and maybe XY scale some of them to better fit

Gears Set:
- 28, 29, 31 and 32 teeth XL crowns for the belt system
- 12 and 14 teeth XL pinions for the belt system
- They will allow to increase or decrease the final reduction ratio but also maybe better adapt to the belts you can find

Front Spring:
- Maybe is not the best solution, but a quite nice temporal one until you source the right springs
- You can "Z scale" it to 40mm to have more initial "pre-compression"
- The 10mm wide springs I bought were a little too wide and I made a wider version of the front shock body so the springs fit better

New Belt Divider:
- Now for 9.4mm wide belts, to have two 4.7mm wide belts, perfect for your bike
- Stronger design than previous one, leading into less error while cutting