Bracket for Waveshare Fisheye Camera in Ultimaker2(+)

Name	Number	Description
Camera	1	http://www.dx.com/p/wareshare-fisheye-camera-lens-for-raspberry-pi-a-a-b-b-black-372156#.VpDnFuDk5hF
Bolt	1	M3 x 16 mm
Nut	1	M3, square (5,4 mm wide)
Washer	varies	M3
Ring	1	Rubber, outer diameter 11,5 mm, inner diameter 6 mm, width 2,5 mm
Clamp	1	Print
Holder	1	Print
Cap	1	Print
Rotor	1	Print

In the clamp is a slit, with which it can be mounted on the right motor cover (at the rear inside the printer). Attached to the clamp is an arm onto which the housing is mounted, in which the camera is to be placed.
This will fit in an Ultimaker 2(+).

Parts / Terminology
- clamp (klem): the clamp itself, consisting of 2 plates, plus the arm onto which the housing of the camera is mounted.
- the housing, which consists of:
- holder (houder): the bottom part, into which the camera is placed.
- cap (kap): the top part, which fits over the holder and camera.
- rotor: the plate sits below the arm of the clamp and the pin sticks through the holes in that arm and the holder.
- a bolt through the rotor-pin, with washer(s), rubber ring (for friction) and a square nut in the holder.

Printing and postprocessing
The STL-files are in the orientation I used for printing.
Preferably a high infill percentage (but maybe not 100%, for tolerances).
For clamp and cap use a brim, for the clamp preferably many lines (eg 20) because the contact surface with the build plate would else be too small. With the cap, don't forget to remove the brim inside the hole for the ribbon that connects the camera.
Probably less postprocessing will be needed with an Ultimker 2+ (better extrusion), but even then the two plates of the clamp may be melted together (the layers are very small there - maybe reduce print speed somewhat towards the end). First cut away any excess material before cutting/prying the plates apart.

Assembly
Stick the pin of the rotor from below through the hole in de clamp arm and place the rubber ring over the pin.
Place the square nut in the holder, put a washer around the bolt, stick the bolt from below through the holes in the rotor and the holder and screw it into the nut. How thight you do this determines how easily the camera wil turn (can be adapted later). The bolt should not stick out too far inside the holder, else it might get in the way of the camera lens. If needs be use more washers.
Place the camera in the holder, with the ribbon at the top, stick the ribbon through the cap, place the cap over the holder and if so desired stick the ribbon through the slot in the back of the cap.
Slide the clamp onto the left side of the motor cover at the back right top corner inside the printer.

Basic position
Place the clamp on the motor cover in such a way that de plates are vertical. The arm is tilted 30° forward and the end 30° up. Because these angles are the same, if the camera is turned 45°, the view will be level. It will then also point to roughly the centre of the build plate.
If the clamp is shifted all the way to the back, there is an overlap of about 2 mm with the print head when it is all the way at the right and back. So this should be prevented when printing (also for travel moves and a wipe/prime tower). In that position, however, the motor cover is in the field of view of the camera, and with large prints the build plate will disappear from view (although this will likely not be a problem - seeing the nozzle is more important). This can be avoided by moving it 1 cm forwards. Of course, this will increase the overlap between the housing and the moving space of the print head, although in most cases that will still not be a problem.

Variations
- shift the clamp (described above)
- tilt the clamp (x-rotation)
- turn the camera (z-rotation)
- tighten/loosen the bolt

If the camera is turned, the view will be somewhat tilted. This can be compensated for by tilting the bracket - forward if the camera is rotated more to the front and backward if it is rotated more to the rear of the printer.
When tilting backward, the cap might touch the axis, but also the slider blocks if the print head is in the rear position. Wich includes the start/end-position at the left rear. So move the print head there before tilting the camera.

How tight the bolt is fastened determines how easily the camera can turn.