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Home / richrap / Designs / Sli3DR - (pronounced Slider) 3D Printer

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Sli3DR - (pronounced Slider) 3D Printer

By RichRap

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gravellyraspy

over 1 year

Does anybody else feel like they're getting Z Backlash from this kid? I can't help but feel that there shouldn't be any... maybe my Z <a href="https://coreball.co">coreball</a> string is too slack. I have it functional using backlash adjustment in the FW, but I was curious if anybody else has come into this issue.

vonGreezly

over 7 years

@E302envy the backlash i'm experience (on all axis) is almost like a lag between direction changes. so when I take z to the hotend, and then start to move it down, the first layer (or even 2 depending on the layer height) won't actually move the bed... same thing happens if I reverse direction.. it takes a fraction of a millimeter of movement before it'll actually start to move. Feel free to hit me up on email to chat more... I'd love to get into it a bit more w/ another sli3dr owner :D scoopthree(at)gmail(d0t)com I might know the cause of your issue... as I've experienced it a little before :D

E302envy

over 7 years

@vonGreezly - can u describe the issue you are having with the z backlash and what it looks like in your prints. I have been struggling with a what I think is a layer misalignment issue that i can not seem to figure out ( maybe it is actually z backlash ) . my printed layers are ever so slightly miss aligned which gives me un-smooth walls on a printed cube.

vonGreezly

over 7 years

Anyone experiencing Z Backlash on this baby? I feel like there shouldn't be any... is my Z string not tight enough? i've got it workable in backlash compensation in the FW, but wondering if anyone else is experiencing this as well?

vonGreezly

over 7 years

Finally got my Sli3dr up and printing pretty well! Need to dial in a few more things, but yeah!! Was wondering though... Anyone else got one of these going, what're you using for print cooling?

Robert Klauco

almost 8 years

I am expanding your design a bit ;) X axis is assembled already, just the motor drive needs some more work. https://github.com/sanchosk/My-PrintTable/blob/master/sli3dr%20variant%20-%20rope.skp

E302envy

over 8 years

what do you guys do to stop the line from overlapping itself on the spools and causing a jam - this seams to get worse with the thicker you go with line?

Tomek

over 8 years

FatFreddie, sounds good. I didn't know it existed. The kevlar weight is apparently minutely higher, but still doesn't matter. What I like is that the kevlar might be better for a heated build area. Dyneema is OK at 70C but apparently might creep at 80-90C if anyone ever went that high (well 90C is too high for an ABS build platform, but maybe some other plastics.)

Tomek

over 8 years

FatFreddie

over 8 years

I used 150lb kevlar fishing / kite line (plenty of suppliers on ebay) - it's a bit stiffer and doesn't take so long to bed in as spectra line.

Tomek

over 8 years

@E302envy You can buy spectra at up to 200lbs strength typically. I used to use 80lbs on my solidoodle but now use 200lbs. My main reason is actually for abrasion resistance, because for a while my pulleys weren't perfect and were wearing down the 80lbs over many hours. The 200lbs is proportionally thicker so it was slower. Almost everyone is definitively using spectra . If you're having cutting problems then you need to investigate the interference. If you think you're over-tightening the spectra that is also possible but a little harder. In that case go up in size.

E302envy

over 8 years

Hey guys - what line are u using for this guy. I have 80lb spectra but it keeps snapping and cutting under the mounting points for the x and y carriage. Any thoughts or recommendations.

Hmj MJ

over 8 years

Hi, i am making a printer based on this, but when X axis is moving, left side of Y axis get movement 1-2mm but the other side is stable, some one can help me?.

vonGreezly

over 8 years

@E320envy does it only home in the wrong direction? Or is it just moving in the opposite direction all the time? If you want, I can send you my working firmware, and you can compare.. Or even just use it.. Though you'd probably wanna dial in the max settings to that of yours so you dont crash haha I'm not using any code at the beginning of the print. All was config'd via the GUI firmware editing tool linked in richrap's original firmware zip..

E302envy

over 8 years

And are you incerting a command in your start code to tell the printer to move to the software z end stop before it starts the print . Not sure why I can't get my brain arround this and thanks so much for the help you have already given,!!!!!!

E302envy

over 8 years

@vongreezly - am still having issues over here - rest all my firmware setting to match the config.h on Richards github page - except for LCD and printer size and end stop inverting as I am using optical end stops. Y homes great - z now homes to min end stop at bottom of printer but x homes in wrong direction. What am I missing here. Basically I am try to understand why any of these setting would be different then RichRaps ( besides end stops being optical and different LCD )

florinf-ro

over 8 years

Does anyone have a working Slid3R working video of the X,Y,Z pulleys while the printer does a full print volume jog? I am really interested in seeing both the X and Y bobbins while the printer does a full bed rectangle and also the same for Z with a top-bottom jog for a few times. But I can't find anywhere on youtube/web any Slid3R in motion/printing maybe? As I see it mentioned on reprap forums on many threads concerning belt-Z I am getting more and more curious. Also another question: how much can the design be stretched on the Z until the bobbin string walking is too much? We can calculate that for a 16mm bobbin and 300mm Z there should be 6 spectra coils on the bobbin. Now if the spectra is say 1mm in diam, 6 rotations of the motor will have the 6 coils walk away from the original position with 6mm. How can we assess how much are these 6mm affecting the spectra tension? Will this weaken the string?

FatFreddie

over 8 years

Spectra line takes a little while to settle down (big tighten after 1 day, smaller after two, smaller still after three), kevlar line settles down faster and isn't as stretchy generally.

vonGreezly

over 8 years

http://imgur.com/Mz33lvK Here's the checkbox I was talking about. To get the Z dialed in, I homed, and then adjusted position until it was at the optimum print-height (using a piece of paper as you said), and then re-entered that value for Z height, and then reflashed the firmware with the new settings. Took a few times to get EVERYTHING perfect, and there is also a little bit of adjustment to be had in your bed (depending on how you did it)

vonGreezly

over 8 years

Regarding your spectra line tension, it could be slipping maybe? I've got mine setup so I can adjust from either side of a spool by tightening the bolts that the spectra ends on. This also took a little bit of playing around, and I ended up re-wrapping my X spool because I didn't have enough coils on it.. .but yeah, it seems to stay tight.

E302envy

over 8 years

One of the really good things of building this guy is that I have never used sketch up before and had to teach myself how to use it and I am now really starting to like it. Once you get used to it I think it is a fantastic tool !!! Thx RichRap for that lol!!!!!

E302envy

over 8 years

Ok that would be great - that's was what I was thinking also but when checking the config.h on RichRaps github sli3dr page it shows the z set as min and hence me question. - can u also describe how you calibrated the z to be at the correct night for printing - on my prusa i3 it is done with a pice of paper and adjusting the z end stop to get nozle to bed night right - am completely missing how to do it on this for some reason - thanks for the help guys and sorry for the dumb questions

vonGreezly

over 8 years

@E302envy if you're using the repetier web interface to config your firmware, there's a check box that inverta the home direction. I believe I also set my home endstop as a max endstop instead of a min... I can try and get a screencap if / when I get these kids to sleep...

E302envy

over 8 years

Hey guys - for the guys with running machines - I have a question. I finally got my machine up and working but am struggling with the z platform and how to get it set right - it homes great but when I try a test print it stays at home. I think I am missing something in the slicer that tells it to move the z platform up to the print head - any help would be great - thx guys - also my spectra line seam to keep losing tension for some reason - any thoughts ?

florinf-ro

over 8 years

I'd be ok with jogging it top bottom for several times, maybe 10 or more to see how the spool of spectra behaves while moving towards the motpr and back. It would be also interesting to have the string split and a spring inserted so we can see the change in tension when the spool walks away from the straight-ish line.

vonGreezly

over 8 years

@realthor I'll try and get a vid sometime soon heh. I had a bit of a meltdown @ the hotend, so things are kind of apart and haven't had time to put 'em all back together yet... Z still functions, so I can zip it up and down a couple times if that's all you're lookin' for?

florinf-ro

over 8 years

Ok, i get it, maybe 100-200 steps/mm are something to be aimed for. Is there any video in the wild or something you guys can shoot so we can see the Z in action, maybe jog it from end to end while focusing on the motor/bobbin. I hope it's not too much to ask but I would really like to see it in action.

bringho

over 8 years

@realthor The Smartrap Core use 20 teeth pulleys with a diameter of 12.7mm. If they are using 1.8° motors and 1/16 micro steps they get 3200 steps over 39.9 mm travel. That's 0.0124 mm travel / step or 80 steps / mm (since it's not a lead screw). Let's compare with two known machines using lead screws: My old PrintrBot Simple 2013 Makers Edition use the imperial 1/4"-16 Acme screw (1.5875 mm/ revolution) which give me 1,0000009765625 mm z-axis movement at 2015.75 steps / mm . That's 25 times higher resolution than the SmartRap Core. The Ultimaker's Z axis screw is 3mm/turn, they use 1.8° motors and 1/8 micro steps which gives 0,001875mm z-axis movement per pulse or 533,33 pulses for moving 1mm. That's 6.66 times higher resolution than the SmartRap Core. I'm aiming at 200 steps / mm which is 2.5 times better than the SmartCore and I hope I will be satisfied with that. it's almost one third of the Ultimaker and one tenth of the Printrbot Simple though. I guestimate it will be sufficient, but if I need more resolution I have a number of ways to increase it. There are 1/32 step drivers available, I can design a smaller bobbin and I have an idea of how to increase resolution with a factor of 2 if necessary.

florinf-ro

over 8 years

Ok, just finished reading a nice article on fine machinery errors (http://m.machinedesign.com/archive/resolution-resolved) and understand better the Phenomena. However i fail to see why finer grained possible resolution helps. The controller tells the motor to turn 100 times to achieve 0.1mm on Z ok? Many mechanical hanical errors later the bed usually moves less than commanded rather than more but it will still rotate 100 times before it stops. On the other hand, a less fine grained resolution system will tell the motor to rotate 10 times to achieve the same advancement of 0.1mm. The needed torque is higher and the errors are added up the same way as with the finer grained system. Are we talking about the jerk resulted from trying to move with less steps the desired distance? Can you give a better example on why rotating 100 steps for 0.1mm is better than 10 steps? Thanks.

florinf-ro

over 8 years

@bringho "There is a difference between mechanical z-axis resolution and print resolution (layer thickness)." I am not that experienced in 3D printing, just wetting my hands so forgive my ignorance. I understand your point, there should be some give so you can adjust in smaller increments the imprefections of the printbed. Is there any other reason why you would want a capability of much better mechanical resolution than the printing resolution? I ask you this as I want somehow to assess how much fine grained do I need this mechanical resolution because I want to avoid the gearbox. Can you shed some light on the solution chosen for smartfriednz's smartrap core, which uses a belt for Z also without gearbox and on direct drive. Are they achieving much fine grained Z mechanical resolution than my example below?

bringho

over 8 years

@realthor There is a difference between mechanical z-axis resolution and print resolution (layer thickness). Since you will never be able to adjust your bed to be perfectly planar to the extruder. You need to be able to handle that difference in height over the surface of your print bed. Don't you think it would be wise to use a smaller z-axis movement / step than the 0.1mm layer size to solve this problem?

florinf-ro

over 8 years

Uhh, got lost in your calculations. Let me try this way... I have a 200steps/rev motor and want a z resolution of 0.1mm. This is the norm, right? Ok we need that the circumference of the bobbin divided by 200 must equal to 0.1, right? This is 2*pi*r/200=0.1 => r=0.1*200/2*pi ~=3.183mm. This means the needed bobbin for the gearless 200steps/rev motor will have a diameter of 6.366mm. Because the motor shaft is 5mm itself, it is quite difficult to get a bobbin of 6.3mm diameter. To reach to your 18mm bobbin and still have the 0.1mm resolution i have to activate microstepping by a factor of 3 (18/6=3). So with x3 microstepping I would reach 0.1mm resolution on Z without gearbox. So why do you want lower than that as a resolution? I see 0.005mm z-axis movement in your comment. That is pointless for the current 3d printers. Even for a SLA printer is not achievable. Now we must take into account that the smaller the bobbin the more revolutions will spectra have to make to achieve sufficient grip. But this increases the "string walking" which translates to all kind of issues, from uneven tensioning (when the spectra on the bobbin gets further away from the straight line it would make between the bearings should it have been a timing belt instead, it continuously tensions the wire before it comes back to the starting point when you turn the motor in the other direction). So from this point of view the bigger the bobbin the better. Which is why RR introduced the gearbox I would guess. If you find a way to prevent string walking then you can get away with a very long and thin bobbin (coupler from 5mm shaft to 8mm threaded rod comes to mind). Do an image search for "Spectra Drive" or "Fishing Line Drive" if you are interested.

bringho

over 8 years

Edited: @vonGreezly, I've been doing some calculations this evening and my conclusion is that we need at least 1/16 microstepping with this motor / gearbox configuration. @realthor, sorry about the confusion, I was thinking about the hold torque being multiplying by the gearbox ratio. Here are my results: 200 steps / revolution multiplied with the gearbox ratio gives 1036 steps per revolution with this Nema 17. Adding 1/16 microstep we get 16576 microsteps / revolution of the bobbin. The difference with this configuration compared to a lead screw is that the z-axis lift with lead screw can be as low as 1.5mm compared to 56.55 mm with the current bobbin of 18 mm diameter. That's a factor of 37+ times... Selecting 0.005mm z-axis movement / microstepstep gives me a circumference of 82,88 mm or a bobbin core diameter of 26,38mm (0.005 * 16576 = 82,88, 82.88 / p = 26,3815... This would give me 200 microsteps (or 12.5 full steps) / mm lift in the z-axis which is roughly one tenth of the steps / mm on my old PrintrBot Simple (using 2015.75 microsteps / mm). While needing less than 2,5 revolutions to cover 200 mm Z-axis height! Selecting 0.00333 mm z-axis movement / microstepstep gives me a circumference of 55,254mm or a diameter of 17,588 mm which is close to the original bobbin diameter of 18 mm and use 300 microsteps / mm, an 50% more than the larger bobbin. Of cause you could aim for a bobbin of 10mm diameter but it would only give you 31.416 mm z-axis lift / revolution. You would need to wind up 6.4 revolutions to get a z-axis lift of 200 mm. The fact that the gearbox output axis is 8mm will probably induce other problems... I'll probably settle for 200 microsteps / mm for the (first) bobbin in my own machine ,) @RichRap, what's your thoughts on this? One final thought: It should be possible to use a variation of the y-axis configuration for the z-axis to get a mechanical reduction of travel by a factor of 2 (to double the amount of microsteps / mm) but it would probably be overly complicated and the benefit is questionable.

florinf-ro

over 8 years

@bringho : Hmm, we must have posted around the same time as I didn't see your comment before posting. Ok, I don't know where I have mistaken in my calculations, I anyway used the info on the website I have mentioned. Ok, 0.28 without microstepping. If you only increase the microstepping by a factor of two or four then you get in the usual resolution range. I don't think that reduces a lot the torque. Anyways I can see your point now but I was wondering why for example the smartrap corexy design by smartfriendz doesn't use any reduction for their direct drive belt Z axis. Thanks for your answer.

florinf-ro

over 8 years

Ok, I assumed 1:1 for the direct drive which is wrong. I assume from the picture that the diameter of the Spool is around 35, maybe 45mm so the rapport is not 1:1 but about 9:1, which makes my calculations below update to 0.00625*9=0.05625mm/microstep, still within the normal resolutions, where 0.1 is the norm. And I have calculated with full stepping. The norm is x16microstepping. Please let me know where am I mistaking :-/. I don't mind buying the gearbox, but if it doesn't help why waste that money.

vonGreezly

over 8 years

@bringho so I should be running the z w/ no microstepping? That all kinda makes a lot of sense... Gotta reconfigure some stuff hehe

bringho

over 8 years

No, the gearbox ratio is 5 point 18 to 1. I don't remember the original diameter of the z-asis bobbin but my version has a diameter of 18mm which gives me a circumference of 56,54mm. That is the z axis travel for one revolution of the motor axis. Divide with 200 for a 1.8° motor and you get 0.28 mm travel / step. If you introduce micro stepping by 16 you get down to 0.017 mm / micro step movement and that may be sufficient. Add the gearbox ratio of 5.18 and you are down to 0.0034... / micro step or 0.0545... mm / step without micro stepping while increasing the hold torque at the same time. I'm confident in following the original RichRap design in this case.

florinf-ro

over 8 years

@bringho: but is it necessary? Are my calculations wrong? This reduction gearbox is 18:1 that is huge and I don't think it is needed. I wonder why did RR use it in the first place, which gets me to the conclusion that there is a flaw in my math :) .

bringho

over 8 years

I bought my Z-axis stepper motor with gearbox from robodigg.com. Probably this one: http://www.robotdigg.com/product/103/Nema17+40mm+Stepper+Gearmotor

vonGreezly

over 8 years

@E302envy richrap included a link in his firmware folder that takes you to the repetier firmware config wizard (suuuuper handy!!) Load in your config, and select the .92 version and then skip through to the download tab and redownload. Should compile fine~

vonGreezly

over 8 years

@E302Envy did you try compiling as .92 instead of .91?

vonGreezly

over 8 years

@EddyMI3D the sli3dr's mighty z axis cannot be bothered by such simple concepts as gravity. It might do that with a lot of weight on it, but not with the weight of anything it printed.

EddyMI3D

over 8 years

I see a greater problem in case the power goes off. So there is no more force from the stepper motor to keep the z-axis/heatbed in place and it will crash down. I would/will insert a worm gear to prevent this.

florinf-ro

over 8 years

What reduction is the gear reducer at the Z motor and why is it needed? I've seen belt-driven Z (a la smartrap core) and they don't use gearing for Z. Wouldn't this work without the reducer? Assuming I am correct that this is considered a direct drive, so 1:1 gearing, then, according to http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Calculating_Z-axis you would get 160 microsteps/mm for a 200-step-per-rev motor, full stepping. That would be 1/160mm per microstep, which is 0.00625, a resolution which is more than the actual nozzles can handle (if I am not mistaking in my logic).

EddyMI3D

over 8 years

Thank you for that hint! Will some time to finish my project, but I'm already collecting parts...

E302envy

over 8 years

for some reason the firmware keeps failing when i try compile/ upload - any thoughts - am using the newest release of arduino ? fails in at lease 5 spots - i will grab the firmware off the github and try that - maybe mine is corrupted

E302envy

over 8 years

Perfect guys - thanks for the answers - I actually found the files for the extruder that is used - well at least i think so. I believe it is Richraps goto rostock bowden setup modified for the Sil3dr - well at least that's what I will be trying. Going to also try the E3d Cyclops on this one. or cymera with to v6 Vulcanos for some really fast LARGE scale prints.

Bearwood

over 8 years

@E302envy The extruded stl's have never been released as far as I know.

Opertum

over 8 years

@EddyMI3d Its usually Spectra Fishing Line. I personally use 80 lb line. @E302envy The Z routing is the same as the Y routing just in a different orientation. Also, Looking at the door, the X motor is on the left, Y on the right. I also want to say the comments used to mention that the extruder was experimental and as of yet unreleased, though I think any bowden will do.

EddyMI3D

over 8 years

I'm think to apply this to my new project. I like to know what kind of wire/cord do you use?

E302envy

over 8 years

I am also wondering which gears wades extruded is in the photos as I really like that one ?

E302envy

over 8 years

Thanks Von greezly - that is a little more help but it don't see any routing of the fish line like that in the pics from rich rap - still trying to grasp the z-axes line routing and where it is mounted on the actual z platform in the pics . Also when look at the machine from the front - which is the x motor and which is the y motor? Sorry if these are dumb questions - I am just getting to the stage of being able to string the motors up. I also am using a different style LCD screen (2004 LCD smart controller) and am not familiar with the repetier firmware - looked it over last night but did not find a section to choose LCD type like in marlin. Thanks for the help and responses guys - really hoping that Richrap could chime in with some closer up photos of the z stage and maybe a better explaining of how to attach spectra to the z stage !!

bringho

over 8 years

Absolutely!!! I owe thanks to everyone on the reprap community to get where I am today, in this case especially to RichRap for leading the way with this interesting machine! I still have ways to go though... On the list right now is first and foremost the bobbins, then new top corners using the new larger rollers ( V625ZZ 625VV) and finally new Y-axis mounts and Z-axis mounts that includes spring loaded fishing line stretching. All will be done in Inventor (as I use it at work) but STL's and BOM will be provided as soon as I have something usable to share. The rollers I decided on trying are these : V625ZZ 625VV V Groove Guide Pulley Rail Ball Bearings Metal (5mm*16mm*5mm), they replace the original 624VV V Groove Sealed Ball Bearings Vgroove 4 X 13 X 6mm 3mm bearings found on ebay. Also I decided on these bearings for the Z-axis : 630VV 6*30*8 V Groove Sealed Ball Bearings 0.236'' Vgroove.

vonGreezly

over 8 years

@bringho lookin' good man! you plan on sharing those files? ^^;

bringho

over 8 years

I've been working on two derivatives (one 200x200x200mm and one 300x300x300mm) since I saw this interesting machine a year ago. Unfortunately I'm not satisfied with doing one project at a time so this has been put on hold while updating my current printer to be able to print the thread bobbins more accurately than I am able to do now. My 200x200 machine looks like this at the moment: [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/bringho/media/DSCF2434s_zpsr5hbpzu1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u434/bringho/DSCF2434s_zpsr5hbpzu1.jpg[/IMG][/URL] It's not finished, I've found out that the small bearings for the fishing line wobbled so I have new, larger ones waiting to be designed into the machine, I have figured out how to include constant feather stretching of the fishing line but have yet to design/print the parts so there are some planned changed to do. the 300mm machine use most of these parts, only the motor mounts are expanded by 100mm. Hope to find time to continue with these machines asap!

vonGreezly

over 8 years

@E302envy Here are some pics of my Z run. I need to rewrap the spool so that it in-line w/ the pulleys, but it functions for now :D Also, yes, you need to zero Z, and then move it up until you're at your print level and then add that to the firmware so that it knows where it's supposed to stop. https://goo.gl/photos/xFoh74QnHbyMrLxm8 https://goo.gl/photos/NN8fZbzBki7sGa2u9 https://goo.gl/photos/fCAX4SLshpKXxGnw7

E302envy

over 8 years

Hey rich rap - am trying to build a 300mm x300mm version of this and am struggling to figure out how the spectra line is connected on the z axes - none of the pics really show it - could you describe how you attached it to the z axes. - and was also wondering how the z axes does its homing as the home switch is on the bottom - do you have to calculate how far it should go up to be ready to print and put that in the firmware .

RichRap

over 8 years

Thanks Kirk. I have had a few issues myself with the new Sketchup, it can get into some nasty states where files are not saved - read-only. If in doubt I would recommend also installing Sketchup Ver 8 for looking at older file types. I have no idea where all the Sli3dr comments have gone? - I'll try to find out from Youmagine.

KKHausman

over 8 years

The file is still present, but if you are using the SketchUp add-in, you have to update that to the 2015 version to access the files. The update is damaged, so will generate and error every time on Windows 10 systems, because the file references a folder that does not exit: http://forums.sketchup.com/t/group-policy-blocking-install/5175 If you make the folder and upzip the Sketchup file, you can install all three files from the damage archive to the new folder you will have to create, and then execute the update to access the files. I have not tested the Pro version, only the 2015 Make to install on a 64 bit computer running Windows 10 and all updates. Good fortune!

Tomek

over 8 years

vonGreezly, it's not just you. I'm looking to adapt the sli3dr, but unfortunately dont see the comments I previously saw. I checked and the "waybackmachine" does not have a copy, unfortunately.

vonGreezly

almost 9 years

is it just me, or did all of the comments disappear? there was some really useful info in there... =\

vonGreezly

almost 9 years

Almost finished hoarding my pile of parts to get this baby running. was wondering if anyone could tell me what the cylinder which is attached to the lift stepper motor is... as seen is this pic: https://d36c0vbvwjb9cx.cloudfront.net/uploads/image/file/52250/large_Z_lift_line_S.jpg Thanks, -Casey

wfcook

about 9 years

This is a dual-wire gantry mechanism, right? <a rel="nofollow" target="_blank" href="http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Dualwire-Gantry_(DW-G)">http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Dualwire-Gantry_(DW-G)</a> Wouldn't it have some of the same racking issues as an Hbot? And would the geometry discussed in this thread (<a rel="nofollow" target="_blank" href="https://groups.google.com/d/msg/h-bot-and-corexy-3d-printers/IfP4he3CeKY/oCOvxVQXe7sJ">https://groups.google.com/d/msg/h-bot-and-corexy-3d-printers/IfP4he3CeKY/oCOvxVQXe7sJ</a>) solve the problem? See the picture at <a rel="nofollow" target="_blank" href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hn0ZskXMJlU/U5yXaXrlFgI/AAAAAAAAAbo/jg1ShwRhFxM/s1600/Capture.PNG">https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hn0ZskXMJlU/U5yXaXrlFgI/AAAAAAAAAbo/jg1ShwRhFxM/s1600/Capture.PNG</a>

Unknown

about 9 years

I am very seriously thinking about printing this but I have several questions. 1) What was the total cost of building this? 2) What is the minimum layer resolution of this printer? 3) Where did you find a control board and did you have to program it? 4)I can't seem to find the build instructions if there are any. Thanks for all your help!

Opertum

over 9 years

<a rel="nofollow" target="_blank" href="/users/nanosmith" class="mentioned-user">@nanosmith</a> RR's designs call for 624VV.  The x carriage idlers are not correctly spaced for 623VV.  For 623VV they need to be 14.4mm apart ( center-point to center-point).

ChasHubert

over 9 years

how goes the work on your experimental extruder?

nanosmith

over 9 years

Hi Richard,Can you please share what is the correct idler pulley dimensions for your design?I can't find a reference anywhere in the design files.  Previous commenters mentioned "624VV" idler pulleys at "4 X 12.6 X 6mm 1.7mm deep", and also "623VV" idler pulleys at "3*12*4 mm".  I'm not sure what is correct. I think that accuracy in the corners of the print area will go down if these are the wrong size, as the tensioned lines wouldn't be parallel. Thanks

Knorpot

over 9 years

I found it, sorry

Knorpot

over 9 years

Richard, what lcd did you use? I can't find that size

nanosmith

over 9 years

Hello Rich,Thanks for your cool work on Sli3DR! I have remixed your design and called it "Bigg3r"; Ihaven't built it yet but here is a render I just put up on YouMagine: <a rel="nofollow" target="_blank" href="https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bigg3r-pronounced-bigger-3d-printer">https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bigg3r-pronounced-bigger-3d-printer</a>Of note I redesigned to use smaller 15mm extrusion; I'm recycling a Prusa i2 so the dimensions of the box are limited, based on the scavenged linear rods from the Prusa.   It is meant to be easier to scale but I used 8mm components on the Y-axis, so my design will likely be somewhat heavier carriage, and so slower than Sli3DR.  I look forward to the Z-axis registration I used directly from your design.It's all CC-BY-SA-3.0 and I hope to post .Blend master files ASAP.

vonGreezly

over 9 years

<div>OKAY! Partial BoM! Shafts, and Extrusions. Prices / part numbers from <a rel="nofollow" target="_blank" href="http://us.misumi-ec.com/">http://us.misumi-ec.com/</a> </div><div> </div><div>MISUMI Part No. Product Name Quantity Unit Price      Amount (Tax excluded)</div><div>SSFU8-360 LINEAR SHAFT 2             20.6        41.2</div><div>SSFU8-250 LINEAR SHAFT 2             19.1        38.2</div><div>SSFU6-235 LINEAR SHAFT 2             17.1        34.2</div><div>HFS5-2020-189 Aluminum Ext 2             3.03          6.06</div><div>HFS5-2020-650 Aluminum Ext 2             3.7          7.4</div><div>HFS5-2020-430 Aluminum Ext 2             2.45          4.9</div><div>HFS5-2020-300 Aluminum Ext 4             1.71          6.84</div><div>HFS5-2020-290 Aluminum Ext 8             3.03        24.24</div><div> </div><div>Bearings: LM8UU, LM6UU, 633ZZ (not sure on exact quantites yet!) </div><div> </div>

dmoorhou

over 9 years

I'm part way through getting all the parts together. Have printed most of the parts for the top. Really struggling with the 6mm carriage. Two main issues so far the 6mm bearings are not very good quality and have very large static friction, then one runs very rough. Definitely can't gently push the carriage in either direction with one finger. The second is the bearings are binding as the 6mm rails are held firmly at each end but must be fractionally different spacings. As it is looser in the middle of the travel but tightens at each end. I was surprised that the max print area seems to be about 120mm x 180mm. I'm just going to make a vanilla build first time and get it all ironed out. Good fun :-)

FatFreddie

over 9 years

I'm making a larger machine based on this idea (I'll publish if I ever get it working properly :-)) and I've got a couple of questions.The V groove bearings I bought have a bit of play in them (about 0.1 mm) - is this usual or have I got bad ones?How tight does the spectra line need to be - are we talking guitar top E or bottom E? Best price I found for extrusion and associated bits is <a target="_blank" rel="nofollow" href="http://www.motedis.co.uk/">http://www.motedis.co.uk/</a> - about £3 per metre but it's shipped from Germany so you need a reasonable quantity to make it economic.

Bearwood

over 9 years

As soon as replacement electronics arrives for my current printer I will be building one one these slightly upsized. I've added 25mm to the A,B,C,D frames and have prepared the Z lift files with an additional 25mm but I'm not sure i'll do that till I get building.I am wondering how you level the print bed? As it looks to me that the screw lengths are all the same and the screws have to be tight to hold it to the slotted aluminium. I know Matter Control has a Beg levelling algorithm but I don't think you are using that given your writings on Slicer.Those looking for cheap 20x20, these guys are competitively priced <a target="_blank" rel="nofollow" href="http://www.aliexpress.com/item/P5-20X20-aluminium-profile/617080244.html">http://www.aliexpress.com/item/P5-20X20-aluminium-profile/617080244.html</a> and DHL shipping is only slightly more expensive than China post. That price is for 6meters

RichRap

over 9 years

Hi Shane, Good Question - I started out designing it with 6mm as I wanted to make it light and small. The Y axis is short and can work well with 6mm rods (I use them on 3DR and other machines) but if you want to scale it up on the X axis, then 8mm (or even 10mm) would be better. I agree it's not ideal having different rod sizes in the same machine, but I have now also extended it to 400mm on the X axis using 8mm Stainless Steel, so the plan worked. Let me know how you get on, and if you make an 8mm version. But yes, it is designed for 6mm rods on the Y Axis. Cheers, Rich.

sgraber

over 9 years

@RichRap:  Is the Carriage_V3_RTP.stl to be used with M6 smooth rod?  Why M6 for the Carriage and M8 for the XY_END_V3_RTP.stl?

GiantGnome

over 9 years

My challenge will be to modify the model to make it printable on my Mini Kossel. Something in this style: http://forums.reprap.org/file.php?178,file=19242,filename=New_Base_3.JPG . I have not thought i through, but I would really like to build a Sli3DR, but the parts won't fit :-(

Knorpot

over 9 years

Hi Richard, At the end it was pretty easy to modify. Just need to watch the right tutorials. I added 100 on x and y, by adding 50's to most parts and so on. Unfortunately my bod's electronics said "no more". Post takes 6-8weeks. No Razar, haven't changes that part. I just ordered a 300x300 and will print on the available bed, which should easy give a 260x250 build.

Razar

over 9 years

Hi has is someone done modifying the build to be able to build on the entire hotbed yet / or something bigger? ;) It would be great if the middle top section where the z bearings is connected was a separate part so the build could be re scaled easy. I know, I know i should do it myself :) haven't used cad in 8 years so if someone has done it, it would be great. I have ordered the electronics and spectra line so far. Thanks-

Knorpot

over 9 years

Thanks, I downloaded sketchup(2015). Will let you know... Corrie

RichRap

over 9 years

@<a target="_blank" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.youmagine.com/users/knorpot">Knorpot</a> - I have included all the source files for Sketchup, they are straightforward to edit and change as you require. I would really like to be able to use a more professional package like Solidworks, but as my budget is limited, I am also limited to programs like Sketchup for now.Don't edit the STL files, if you don't like Sketchup, then export them as something you can edit in whatever software you like. Let me know how you get on. Rich.

Knorpot

over 9 years

I'm fairly new to 3d printers.. Is there a way to upscale the design ( change the stl files to solid) or how do you guys alter the original files?

bringho

over 9 years

I've found 20mm B type B-slot 6mm on a Swedish (yea, I'm Swedish, produced in and shipped from Germany) at $5.33 / meter including tax exclusive freight so I'm quite happy at the moment: <a href="http://www.motedis.se/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.motedis.se/</a>shop/Aluminiumprofiler/Profil-20mm-B-typ-T-spar-6mm/Aluminiumprofil-storlek-20x20mm-B-typ-T-spar-6mm::999991.htmlAnd the prices on the accessories are the best I've seen so far!

Zootalaws

over 9 years

I pay US$5.50/m for slotted aluminium. Maybe you should complain to Ukraine importers for charging so much? Or design a machine that uses your cheap square tube? Or buy from here http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Aluminum-Profile-Aluminum-Extrusion-Profile-3030-30-30-1-meter-length-1000mm-alloy/937165_1408718947.html

Myp

over 9 years

"Сheap" extrusion with slot is worth 65 bucks, and I can not use the square tube because it is square, without slots.Here is cheap 20 series extrusion without slot:<a target="_blank" rel="nofollow" href="http://alfasys.com.ua/uploads/1337165774_truba_alum.jpg">http://alfasys.com.ua/uploads/1337165774_truba_alum.jpg</a>

Zootalaws

over 9 years

So use cheap 20series extrusion, then. It's DIY, not a kit. Use whatever you like. Rich is in the UK, I am pretty sure the brand "T-Slot" is not sold there, but used as a generic term for 20-series extrusion.

Myp

over 9 years

T-slot on Ebay costs about $ 65 per meter including postage. regular square tube in offline shop costs $ 6 per meter. T-slot is very expensive.

Zootalaws

over 9 years

It does use cheap aluminium extrusion, @Myp

Myp

over 9 years

It would be great to redraw the model under the cheap aluminum square tube 20x20. Items can be bolted into the hole which is easy to drill in the right place.

Zootalaws

over 9 years

Or... Come up with one in the same way others would... Work it out for yourself? You have a detailed drawing, just measure the parts you need, that's what I did. Wasn't that hard.

erdeminanc

over 9 years

anyone came up with a BOM, please do share :/i cannot get started in this case.

bringho

over 9 years

This design really got the juices flowing ! I'm half way through an expansion to 200x200x200mm printable with a 214x214mm Mk3 heated bed, current measurement of frame (outer) 380mm wide and deep, 344mm high to the top of the original printed frame parts. It looks like I can shave a few millimetres off but I'm not there yet. Last thing done was to moved the V-Grove bearings so both Z-axes are 15.043mm off centre (using the original right bottom mount. Next step is to recreate the printed framing and I'll start printing my parts =). I'm buying a 200x300 heated bed from reprap.me so there will be two options when I'm done: 380mm wide or 480mm wide. I'll sourced parts for both as soon as I finalize the lengths of the extrusions.

Zootalaws

over 9 years

swe3tdaveabout - the printer as it is, can't print on the entire surface of the glass.. There aren't many printers that can. And... You seem to be missing the forest for the trees. If you want a bigger print area, change the design and make it so. As to flexing, I take it you haven't constructed anything in aluminium extrusion? In a cube design like this, it is absolutely rock-solid. Personally, I think it's a brilliant design and am actively transcribing it to a CNC-machined iteration. You seem to be missing the key deliverable with this design -speed.

tru168

over 9 years

Hmm, I just measured X axis smooth rod and carriage, and maximum moveable space is 125.5mm, thats means the print area will be around 120mm square ?

swe3tdave

over 9 years

the printer as it is, can't print on the entire surface of the glass.. You would need to extend the printer by 80mm, more or less... look at the sketchup file with the assembled printer and mesure for yourself... And with the bigger size, i'm worried about flexing... i'm out

Zootalaws

over 9 years

@bringho yes, it looks like Youmagine is doing something to links.A google search of the  links will bring you to the right place.

bringho

over 9 years

@SudoICE  have the same problem with the links.@RichRap, I could not agree more about E3D vs the clones!Lately though I have had some trouble with the PTFE push fit lock in my E3Dv6 1.75mm bowden hot-end. Almost solved by buying new clamps from E3D but I think I'll design a mount which include a regular push fit connector as they seem more stable. The one used on the Promethius hot-end feels rock solid when compared to the one fitted on the original E3Dv6 1.75 bowden hot-end. Another possible source of my problem is the (cheap) PTFE tube I'm using?

RichRap

over 9 years

If I can make one request - Please consider buying an 'official' E3D hot-end or J-head. I have seen first hand how some of the clones and poor copies perform. But as always it's your choice.Support the E3D team here - <a target="_blank" rel="nofollow" href="http://e3d-online.com/">http://e3d-online.com/</a>And the Original J-head here - <a target="_blank" rel="nofollow" href="http://hot-ends.com/">http://hot-ends.com/</a>

KKHausman

over 9 years

+SudoICE, it seems to work for me here without having to export the URL.

SudoICE

over 9 years

Is anyone else have trouble with the hyperlinks being truncated? Also if anyone comes up with a BOM please post it. Great job on the printer Rich!

RichRap

over 9 years

The type of Spectra line I'm using on all my machines is 80lb (36Kg) Green - exactly like here - <a target="_blank" rel="nofollow" href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-PE-SPECTRA-DYNEEMA-BRAID-FISHING-LINE-300M-10LB-100LB-/390569751390?pt=UK_BOI_Packing_Postal_Supplies_Labels_LE&var=&hash=item5aefc5735e">http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-PE-SPECTRA-DYNEEMA-BRAID-FISHING-LINE-300M-10LB-100LB-/390569751390?pt...</a>

bringho

over 9 years

I've been playing with 200x200x200 build size. Using the current extruder carriage the framing becomes roughly 370mm wide, 290mm deep and 265mm high nudging the aluminium extrusions some from the current prototype build. With this size it's still possible to print the parts on a  200x200 build plate. To get 300x300 by 300 just add 100mm on each axis and find a 300x300 machine to print the parts or redesign some of them.

SudoICE

over 9 years

What parts would need to be tweaked in order to expand the build envelope on this printer?  Example 300x300x300mm;  The 3d printed sides would need to be modified/extended or could you use extrusion underneath those parts and build a block between where they meet the size of the difference?  Longer rods, maybe thicker 10mm?, longer extrusion, would the spectra be affected?  Any other adverse effects I am missing?

SudoICE

over 9 years

@crazyhorseX - From above: The line was 0.5mm size (80Lb I think) - You can use almost any type (I used 60lb and 100lb on various 3DR designs without any issues.)

crazyhorseX

over 9 years

sorry i meant guage and type of spectra line :)

crazyhorseX

over 9 years

Hey Rich,any link to the guage and time of spectra line you have used would be a great help ... there are too many types out there :)thanks for everything

bringho

over 9 years

@Zootalaws Those links seem to be crippled.

yasam2002

over 9 years

BIG THANK YOU

yasam2002

over 9 years

Is it possible to have a bom ,need to request all the electronics. Unfortunately here in Morocco we dont have this unique piece of art yet. hope to build it asap.

RichRap

over 9 years

@<a target="_blank" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.youmagine.com/users/sgraber">sgraber</a> - yes, it's all printed in PLA, all my machines are in PLA. That said if you do print the Filament drive spools in PLA, just make sure to tighten them well on the motor shafts and also add a drop of superglue on the motor shaft. PLA has a tendency to relax and give over time when stressed so they can get loose after 6+ months of use.You don't see the same issue with ABS or PET materials.

sgraber

over 9 years

I assume the parts are all printed in PLA, or are a couple (like the hotend/carriage) ABS?

tru168

over 9 years

Richard, Thanks for reply. print speed at 85mm/s seems really fast to me. I'm sourcing all parts now. Thanks again for sharing your great design. I will inform you once finished.

RichRap

over 9 years

I was asked on G+ How to secure the Spectra lines - tension system consists of the ends of the spectra line being wound around an M4 mounted bolt - see the images on Youmagine / my blog. You should run the machine for a while and then re-tighten around the M4 bolts+washers+nut. When tight the lines should twang.

RichRap

over 9 years

@tru168 1) - it's not actually a closed cabinet, just the sides and front if you want to put on a door. The top is completely open, so no significant heat build up will happen. 2) - No, not in my experience, (with many other machines using spectra and printed pulley's) the Spectra line is not sliding on the pulley, it's locked, so just unwinding and winding. 3) - No, not seen any issues I could not sort out by Firmware acceleration settings and or making sure the spectra lines are tight, calibrated and smooth etc. 4) - People normally quote silly numbers for print speed without actually taking into account the firmware acceleration settings etc. - I can say this is the fastest machine I own, both for not print movement (250mm+/sec) and print speed of 120mm+/sec is remarkably fast when you have the acceleration settings turned all the way up. I have no idea how fast it can go, but at some point my extruder and hot-end will max out and the print quality will start to degrade. I normally print PLA at 85mm/sec unless it's with a material that likes it slower.

tru168

over 9 years

Hi Richard, Thanks or sharing your marvellous design. I have some question: 1) since its closed cabinet design, the inner temperature will be higher while operating, can PLA printed parts withstand the heat? 2) will spectra line cut through into the printed PLA spool after some time? 3) any XY resonance spotted? ( wavy printed surface) 4) what is the highest print speed ?( I believe it can print faster than normal design.)

RichRap

over 9 years

@sgraber - 1) - The only reason was that is was a prototype and I wanted to use as few different length Aluminium sections as possible, so as I'm already using 6 x 290mm and I was not sure exactly how to mount the heated bed (position / springs or not etc), I went for 189mm x 2 & 290mm x 2 to make sure it would fit. Feel free to optimize the sized or bed mounting design. 2) - The heated bed platform (Z axis) does not need any more rods, it's rock solid and slides smoothly without any issues of wobble/bend/twist that I can see. You could use 10/12mm Rods if you feel like making a little firmer, but I'm happy with the design and print quality from it. Let me know what you decide - The Z axis mounts were the only part I borrowed (changed slightly) from the (timrastall) Ingentis design - https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ingentis-a-tantillus-variant

RichRap

over 9 years

@bringho -Yes, Derek at Robotdigg.com has a lot of the parts needed for this machine, including the v-groove bearings. In the UK - KJN Aluminium is great value for the Aluminium extrusions, and they cut to size - http://www.kjnltd.co.uk/ The heated bed is the standard MK2b - I only made the machine that size because it can use A3 Sheets of Di-bond material to enclose it. It makes for minimal cutting. If you made the machine a little bigger you could get the full print size of the MK2b printbed. At the moment it's active print area is smaller, 180 x 165? off the top of my head - best check that it in the sketchup model to confirm.

sgraber

over 9 years

@RichRap: Two quick questions: 1. What is the reasoning behind making two of the tslots longer for the heated build platform? 2. Why did you not go with three or even four M8 smoothrods for the z-axis? My thought behind this is that the HBP could twist a bit in the X-axis if someone pushed down on the front or it might wobble from vibration. Thanks!

bringho

over 9 years

The size of the heated bed in the drawing looks like 200x200mm (or 214x214mm) Mk2. But what is the usable bed size with the current side / length dimensions? I think I have seen it somewhere but just can't locate it again.

bringho

over 9 years

Thanks @<a href="https://www.youmagine.com/users/kkhausman" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">KKHausman</a> and @<a href="https://www.youmagine.com/users/zootalaws" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Zootalaws</a>, I jumped on the first one so fast I did not even look for cheaper ones at ebay either... those are ordered and I found a geared Nema17 at <a href="http://www.robotdigg.com/product/90/Geared-Nema17-Stepper-Motor" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.robotdigg.com/product/90/Geared-Nema17-Stepper-Motor</a>, it looks like it fits so it's ordered and on it's way ;) The only things missing now are the aluminium extrusions, slot nuts and angle brackets. Finding decent priced aluminium extrusion accessories seem lika a challenge...

Zootalaws

over 9 years

@bringho and @KKHausman, I found these V623ZZ bearings (V - 6mm*3mm sealed) at $3 for 10. I bought 100, just because they were so reasonable. They are known as 'embroidery machine pulleys' http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-V623ZZ-V-groove-roller-wheel-ball-bearings-3-12-4-mm-embroidery-machine-pulley-bearing/32226374792.html

RichRap

over 9 years

I was asked an interesting question over on G+ so here is a copy of the reply to help here - Any spare holes you see are for routing the end-stop cables or wiring mounts etc. they do not have any specific reasons for being scattered around the machine, I just added some in the design so I could secure and route various cables. The 'spare' holes on the X/Y carriage parts were to allow a single part to be printed, it's identical, but at each end different mounting holes need to be used for the spectra line and bearing position. After some quick tests, I only actually printed one single set of the main components, and a few minor revisions for fit, it all just worked. If I ever update the design I will spend a little more time on the industrial design aspect and optimization of parts and fastenings.

sgraber

over 9 years

Any chance you could do a follow-up blog post with a lot more close-ups of parts printed on this printer? :)

KKHausman

over 9 years

@bringho - I've bought about 200 of those in lots of 20 from Ebay (<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/261230886924?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/itm/261230886924?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT</a>) around $10 USD per set, although there are other vendors there that can shave a percentage off that for larger orders. Out of those, I have had four that were not properly milled (lacking the V groove) but otherwise still very functional as miniature bearings.

bringho

over 9 years

That's good news!I think I got most parts covered except the V shaped idler wheel rollers, where did you source them?

RichRap

over 9 years

The line was 0.5mm size (80Lb I think) - You can use almost any type (I used 60lb and 100lb on various 3DR designs without any issues.)

RichRap

over 9 years

@paulchainkang - yes what a silly number for Z axis, they will be fine at 360mm - the tops are clamped and actually because of the 'design' both sides are different lengths if you want the top to look neat, or else just leave them as they are. The spectra lines are real 'spectra' - not just fishing line. If you look for Spectra Line on eBay and buy from the manufacturer (usually in China) you should get the Official Green 'spectra Line'

RichRap

over 9 years

@bringho - The e3D V6 fits and works perfectly! And the gear reduction is in the Firmware config settings - it's been a few months since I looked at the numbers, but the standard Nema17 Planetary gearbox is 5.18 :1

RichRap

over 9 years

@ed.bespalov - The extruder is experimental, I'll release it shortly for anyone who wants to try it out (the experimental bit is that it can drive almost any type of filament soft and hard as it has no break in the PTFE tube feeder tube for the Drive gear) If you need one before theexperimental one is released, you can use almost any Bowden design - check out my other projects, I have a few different ones - My 3DR is a great start :)

bringho

over 9 years

What's the reduction number in the geared Nema 17 used for the Z axis movement?

paulchainkang

over 9 years

@RichRap, it's a very excellent design. I would like to build one even I already have a Cube Gen1 and a Prusa. I have two questions, 1. The Z-axis rod measured as 363.6 mm in Sketch UP, it's kind of an odd number, should I use exactly the same number? 2. The spectra lines shown in the pictures do not look like common fishing lines, can you provide the model/manufacture of the spectra lines you use?

bringho

over 9 years

The extruder looks like an E3Dv5 no longer available from E3D, they moved on to the E3Dv6 but there are a number of v5 clones from china at Ebay. I have both and retired the v5 because the v6 is much better! visit either http://e3d-online.com/ (Europe) or http://www.filastruder.com/collections/e3d-hotends (US)

ed.bespalov

over 9 years

Nice! But I can't find the extruder files. Could you provide the reference to the extruder you used?

RichRap

over 9 years

@nic0laz - Yes, you need a NEMA17 with planetary gears on z if you want to get the best resolution for the Z axis - But if you want to use a normal NEMA17 and a set of gears, that will still work to some degree. Just a quick note that the Spool is designed for a 8mm Shaft (NEMA23's and NEMA17's with planetary gears should have these)

Zootalaws

over 9 years

Neat! I've been looking forward to this. Thanks Richard.

nic0laz

over 9 years

do we need to use a stepper with planetary gears on z?. If i want to scale it up, should i just make things longer or i should take care of another thing?

RichRap

over 9 years

Files are now released! - Any problems you can also get them from GitHub - https://github.com/RichRap/Sli3DR

Zootalaws

almost 10 years

Me too! I have 20M of 2020, 8 new steppers and a bunch of electronics just burning a hole in my workbench... I'd really like to replace my Prusa with an H-bot.

TomNCatz

almost 10 years

I'm currently looking at building a second printer and VERY interested in this design. It appears to offer one of the best build sizes per machine profile and I like that it pulls both sides with the cord. Any idea on if/when you'd be releasing the design?

KKHausman

about 10 years

This build looks like so much fun I already mocked up the "unnamed mechanism" for the X and Y axis movements, although I look forward to seeing what your Z axis movement looks like! This looks ripe for a FSR auto-level to fairly eliminate fussing around with setup!

NewPerfection

about 10 years

Nope, not CoreXY. See: http://richrap.blogspot.com/2014/07/3d-printers-big-printers-small-printers.html

cyclone

about 10 years

Looks like core x/y is it not? http://corexy.com/theory.html