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Haydn Huntley

about 8 years

I just uploaded my magnetic jig design. It uses an extra 2 magnets and two 1/4" (or 6mm) threaded rods with 16 nuts.

Haydn Huntley

almost 9 years

I use the two 3/8" ball bearings in my jig -- they're more convenient than the ball studs for that purpose.

Chris Hax

over 9 years

Thanks but I already have the magnets installed in the rod ends and the balls bolted to the effector. The deltaprintr's can easily be turned into a "ball stud" style by using a spacer and a bolt and instead of threading the ball stud in from the top of the effector use a threaded bolt from the bottom and bolt the ball to it which is assembled already and looking good...I just need to finish assembly. As for setting the printer up, I already have my Kossel printing really well:<a target="_blank" rel="nofollow" href="http://oi60.tinypic.com/2usiv44.jpg">http://oi60.tinypic.com/2usiv44.jpg</a> I'm just hoping I can get the magnetic setup running in the next day or two with what I have on hand. Btw, I have printed successfully at 0.05 layer height: <a target="_blank" rel="nofollow" href="http://oi58.tinypic.com/2zsv5v8.jpg">http://oi58.tinypic.com/2zsv5v8.jpg</a>  Once you get past the calibration time required you really can't beat it's speed and quality for most models. I'm hoping the magnet setup will help with a few remaining quirks I'm seeing in a small number of prints I have done.

Haydn Huntley

over 9 years

Hi Chris,I don't think the threaded 10mm ball from DeltaPrintr will work with these rod ends.  The DeltaPrintr threaded balls are designed to go on the ends of the rods, and the rod ends are also supposed to go on the ends of the rods.To use my rod end design, you need something called a ball stud -- a ball stud has threads on one end and a ball on the other.  You can attach ball studs to an effector and carriages, and then attach the rod ends to the ends of the rods, to create sockets on the rods.  This gives you a ball and socket joint.If you like, I sell ball studs for $1, and I have carbon fiber tubes for $2 each.  I usually have magnets for $2 each, but at the moment I'm waiting for more to arrive in the mail.  I expect them this week.For a Mini Kossel the rods ideally should be 215mm from the center of one ball to the center of another.  If you use 10mm diameter, 15mm high cylindrical magnets in my rod ends (which is what I recommend), then the two rod ends will be 40-41mm and you should use carbon fiber tubes which are 215-41=174mm.  I recommend building a jig to make sure that each rod comes out exactly the same length.I also sell very carefully built sets of 288mm rods, complete with the ball studs for $60/set of six.  The magnetic joints have a minimum pull of 1kg and within a set of rods, the variation in length is only ~30µm.On my website:  <a target="_blank" rel="nofollow" href="http://www.maui-3d.com/kcZeroBacklashInstallation.php">http://www.maui-3d.com/kcZeroBacklashInstallation.php</a>I have instructions for installing them on a Kossel Clear printer, along with quick autocalibration. It is relatively easy to build a printer, however it often takes many, many hours to calibrate.  Using the techniques on the above page, I was able to calibrate my printer in less than an hour, and the calibration was accurate to within less 100µm, which works great with the 200µm layers I typically use.

Chris Hax

over 9 years

Thanks for posting these up! I'm currently printing out the rod ends and already the effector printed, threaded 10mm balls from deltaprintr and got 15x15mm N52 magnets off Amazon. So now I'm considering printing the 6 rods/arms vs buying carbon ones again (I doubt I can take my traxxas ones apart as they are epoxied in). For a stock Kossel Mini, how long should the rods be? Same as stock? Hopefully your effector will work with my J head until my e3d v5 clone comes in mail next month. Thanks again!